BEAUTY

What is lip tattooing? Here's everything you need to know about the semi-permanent makeup

From how much it hurts, to the healing process.
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Lip tattooing (also known as lip blushing) is a beauty term that's been around for years, but as lips alternate with eyes as the main focal point of our makeup looks, the interest in defining and emphasising mouths remains as strong as ever.

Of course, there's been a huge boom in products centred around shaping and shading lips over the past few years, from Rhode's newly launched Peptide Lip Shape to Refy's Lip Sculpt. Meanwhile, heroes like the MAC and NYX liners have been a staple in makeup bags for decades, but for those looking for a more permanent (or semi-permanent) solution, lip blushing offers up extra longevity.

In a nutshell, lip tattooing is the lip equivalent to microblading. And, just as microblading can replace brow products with a longer-lasting effect, lip blushing can offer up carefully shaped and tinted semi-permanent tattooed lips without the need for liners and glosses.

If it's a treatment you've considered, but you're unsure what to expect, here's everything you need to know...

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What is lip blushing?

There are many different types and names for lip tattooing, including lip blushing, lip
contouring, tattooed lip liner, lip blush, and a full tint, but essentially, “it's a permanent makeup technique that involves the introduction of pigment into the skin over the lip to give it colour,” explains medical aesthetic doctor, Dr Sophie Shotter. “This can be very helpful for anyone wanting more lip definition or for those who lack natural pigment into the lips, either genetically or because of the ageing process,” she adds.

In practice, the treatment involves “carefully impregnating a specialist colour pigment into the lips, using a special tattoo machine that is at a lower speed and frequency than a traditional tattoo machine and ultra-fine needles to gently deposit the colour throughout the lip area,” explains aesthetician, Lesley Wilks.

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Is lip blushing safe?

As with all cosmetic procedures, there are always risks involved. The key with any cosmetic treatment is to do your research and go to a reputable provider. “In the right hands, yes it’s a safe treatment,” notes Dr Shotter. “But we must remember that this involves the use of tattooing needles and so there are restrictions on who can do this and the premises it’s done in. Hygiene is very important – needles should be single use to avoid cross contamination, and strict attention should be paid to cleanliness. Another risk is that the result isn’t what you desire, and this is another reason to choose your practitioner very carefully. Tattoos are not easy to get rid of if you have a bad result. My advice would be to speak to friends who’ve had good experiences and results you like to get a recommendation. There are also a couple of great training academies like Nouveau and Tracie Giles and you could look for practitioners trained by them, even if you don’t go to the main clinic,” Dr Shotter says.

What are the benefits of lipstick tattooing?

Aside from having a lip colour that won't fade or smudge no many how many coffees or cocktails you're on, lip tattooing also aims to define the shape of the lips and depending on the technique, can make them look slightly larger too.

“Lip tattooing really can help to give a very natural shape and colour back to the lips,” says Dr Shotter. “Historically many people have tried to use filler to do everything to enhance lips, but for me lip blushing is an incredibly useful tool that I often refer my patients for. Achieving better definition, better shape, better symmetry, and better colouration are benefits that may be achieved. For some people filler will also play a part in achieving the result, but the two can be used in combination,” she explains.

If you have uneven lips, permanent makeup specialist, Sian Dellar, explains how this can be improved with tattooing. "Our advanced techniques can correct the shape of your lips to make them seem more balanced and symmetrical. We can also add definition to the edge of your lips to minimise the appearance of fine lines and give you a fresh and youthful look," she says.

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What are the cons of lip tattooing?

It's worth weighing up the risks and cons of the treatment before committing. “We have to consider this as permanent, and so if it’s not done well you can be stuck with a result that isn’t good,” warns Dr Shotter. “I would also say it is uncomfortable in many cases – the key is being with a great practitioner who will numb you as best they can,” she says.

If I don't like my lip tattoo can it be removed?

If you are left with a result you don't like, removal can be tricky. “It can be challenging,” notes Dr Shotter. “Lasers can potentially be used and saline removal or some forms of chemical peel may also be options. But one shouldn’t assume removal will be possible as this depends on many factors and success is variable,” she notes.

Who is lip blushing suited to?

Lip blushing or tattooing is suitable for most clients of all ages and lifestyles. "It's for anyone over 18 who wants a subtle lip colour", says Marie Selby, microblading and semi permanent makeup expert. "It can be especially good for older women who lose pigment in their lips as they age."

Any problems will be seeded out in a consultation, though Lesley says. Although this can be used effectively in combination with lip filler, "I wouldn’t recommend this for anyone with a lot of lip filler as colour can be extremely difficult to take," Lesley notes.

Is the process similar to microblading for eyebrows or is it a different method?

While microblading is a popular method for the brows, Marie says lip tattooing is completely different. "Semi-permanent makeup tattooing is applied with a needle and a machine, whereas microblading is a manual method which cuts the skin with a bladed hand tool", she explains. "It is rare in the UK for microblading to be done on lips."

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How does lip tattooing work and what's the procedure like from start to finish?

A full consultation should always be carried out before commencing tattooing. “In many ways this is the most important step,” says Dr Shotter. “You and the practitioner should discuss what you’re hoping to achieve and this should be drawn onto the lip area in outline. Anaesthetic is then applied to the area – this works quickly on the delicate lip tissue. The first pass of tattooing is done and then usually more anaesthetic is applied to enable better penetration. Several passes of tattooing are usually needed. Aftercare is then explained. The practitioner will usually offer a review and touch up if needed a few weeks later,” she explains.

"We begin by discussing with the client exactly what they want to achieve including shape and colour, taking into account the client's natural colourings and giving our expert advice regarding what may suit them", says bespoke permanent makeup expert, Tracie Giles. "We then pre-draw the lips using a pencil, carefully measuring them and ensuring they are as close to perfect as possible before showing the client in the mirror. We don’t begin the tattooing until the client is totally happy with the pre-drawing, and then the tattooing itself usually takes around 45 minutes to 2 hours."

Does lip blushing hurt?

The question on everyone's lips (literally) is how much pain are we talking? “The lips are sensitive – that’s why we like to be kissed. But with good numbing techniques, this can be minimised significantly,” notes Dr Shotter.

"My clients always comment on how much less it hurts than they initially envisaged", says Lesley. "It’s mine and any technicians job to ensure a client is as comfortable as possible and we try to manage pain as much as possible." The reality is "it can feel scratchy, but permanent make up is nowhere near as aggressive as conventional tattooing", says Tracie. Most places will apply a numbing cream to ease any discomfort, but when it comes down to it, your best bet is to stay relaxed. "Often if someone is tense it hurts more", says Lesley.

How do you choose the colour of the lipstick tattoo?

If you have a favourite lipstick or liner, it's a good idea to take this to your appointment as an example. In fact, it's encouraged. "I would always ask a client to bring or identify her favourite lipstick colour so I could get an idea of the tone and shade she has in mind, bearing in mind everyone sees colour differently", says Lesley. "Usually the remit is to keep the colour very close to the client's natural lip colour to achieve the most natural look", says Andrea. It's always best to start off subtle, as colours can then be intensified over time and at touch-up appointments if desired. However, we've started to see people going bolder which can look really effective.

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How long does lip blushing last? Do you need touch-ups?

Depending on the treatment and lifestyle factors, lip tattooing can last anywhere from 1-3 years. "The pigment will fade naturally and lighten over this time", says Sian, who recommends a colour boost procedure every 6-12 months. You can expect “2-3 years of visible result usually, but touch ups may be needed to maintain results,” agrees Dr Shotter

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What's the aftercare process?

It's important to note that the colour is much more intense over the first few days following treatment. "Lips will be sore and tender for the first 48 hours and colour will appear darker", says Lesley. Some people also experience flaking as the lips heal.

A healing balm will usually be provided following your appointment, which should be applied 2-3 times a day until the area is healed. "It’s a big no-no to apply lipstick on top of your lip blush while it’s healing as you don't want to risk an infection", says permanent make-up expert, Laura Kay. "You would also need to avoid going to the gym or sitting in the sun for a week."

"Avoid getting your lips wet and try not to eat any salty or spicy food", says Sian, who also recommends avoiding kissing for up to seven days.

How much should lip tattooing cost?

Lip tattooing should only be undertaken by a qualified professional and this should be reflected in the price. “Cost will vary depending on the practitioner and their skill level. I would always say with these things that a higher price often reflects greater experience or skill (but not necessarily, so do your due diligence),” says Dr Shotter. But in general, the treatment will cost “upwards of £500 but often more,” she says.

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