If there's one beauty treatment that excels at keeping beauty routines low maintenance, it's microblading. Despite becoming a more established and well-known treatment in recent years, its popularity has never eased up, thanks to its ability to provide definition and fullness where brows are naturally lacking and shave hours off your daily makeup routine.
As with all new techniques, the procedure has come on since it blew up in the 2010s with more refined and natural shapes becoming a signature of the 2020s.
So, if you're intrigued about how exactly microblading works, how long it lasts and the aftercare involved, we've put together everything you need to know below.
What is microblading?
“Microblading is a form of semi-permanent make-up,” for brows explains Blink Brow Bar’s Head of Training, Jaimineey Patel. The technique involves manually implanting pigment into the skin using a handheld tool with fine needles that create hair-like strokes, resulting in a more defined and fuller eyebrow appearance," says Suman Jalaf, celebrity brow expert and founder of Suman London.
The actual technique of implanting pigment into fine incisions in the skin goes back thousands of years, but gained popularity for being used on eyebrows in Asia, with the feathering or embroidery trend. Later known as microblading, it's essentially tattooing, but it's much more delicate. Rather than giving you a block of colour like traditional tattooing, fine strokes create the illusion of real hairs.
“If you want to cover gaps, define or fill in over-plucked brows, or replace barely-there brows, microblading is a fantastic option,” says Jaimineey. "It's particularly appealing for individuals seeking to enhance their eyebrows without the need for daily makeup application,” Suman adds.
What is microshading vs microblading and what are each best for?
“Microshading and microblading are both semi-permanent eyebrow enhancement techniques, but they differ in their methods and results,” says Suman.
“The microblading technique mimics natural eyebrow hairs making it best for individuals with sparse or thin eyebrows who want more definition and a naturally fuller look,” says Suman. It's for those wanting to enhance their brow shape without an overly filled appearance," she adds.
“Microshading uses a machine to deposit tiny dots of pigment into the skin, creating a soft, shaded effect that resembles the look of filled-in brows with makeup. It's best for individuals with fuller brows who want a more defined, soft appearance, or those seeking a makeup-like finish or a more dramatic look,” says Suman. Visually, it “ produces a soft ombre or gradient effect, with the front of the brow being lighter and gradually darkening toward the tail,” she adds.
But, you don't have to choose between one or the other. “Microblading and microshading are two techniques that are often combined to achieve a softer finish with natural hairlike strokes at the front and a shaded effect at the arch and tail,” notes Jaimineey.
How much does microblading cost?
“Microblading prices do vary, based on the technique and sessions required, the microblading artist will guide you through after conducting a thorough consultation,” says Jaimineey. In general, sessions start around £400 (as at Blink Brow Bar). The location can make a difference, too. Suman charges her clients between £950 to £1200 internationally, while her London-based pros charge between £600 and £700 including touch-ups.
How do I choose the right shape and colour?
There are a number of features your brow artist should take into consideration when working with you on the perfect shape and colour. "During the consultation the artist will discuss your brow goals with you. They will map out the shape taking facial features and preferences into consideration. The colour is matched by assessing skin tone, hair colour and your personal preferences. The colours are tested on the skin to assess undertones. It is important to note the colour will initially appear darker and can take up to two to three sessions to achieve the desired resultsm," says Jaimineey
As for specifics, Suman uses the below guidelines.
- Oval: Can wear most eyebrow shapes, with a gentle arch being ideal.
- Round: Suit a slightly arched brow to elongate the face.
- Square: Can benefit from high arches to soften angular features.
- Heart: Work best with soft, rounded brows
- Long: Suit a flat brow shape.
“Consider your natural eyebrow shape and existing hairs. A good technician will often make enhancements based on your natural features, ensuring the result looks cohesive and balanced,” says Suman.
- Skin skin tones: Typically match better with shades of brown or warm blacks
- Cooler skin tones: Can pair with ash or dark browns.
- Blonde hair: Suits light brown to blonde shades.
- Brunette hair: Suits medium brown to dark brown shades.
- Black hair: Suits dark brown or black shades.
- Red hair: Suits auburn or light brown shades.
What does microblading involve?
Since microblading is semi-permanent, it generally takes place over three sessions to ensure attention is paid to getting the shape and colour right, getting the procedure right and adjusting after to get the final look. “If you are new to microblading it's important to know the procedure requires three appointments, at least,” says Jaimineey. "The consultation includes going through your general health history to ensure the treatment can be carried out safely. An overview of the treatment will be discussed, as well as choosing the pigments and roughly mapping out the brow shape. At this point you will also be given a scratch patch test with the blade and pigment and will be advised on the numbing cream. After 48 hours, providing you have no reactions to the patch test, you are ready to have your treatment. During this appointment the artist will recap the details discussed in the consultation. The brows are then mapped out, colour-matched with the pigments and the treatment will proceed. Once the treatment is completed, your therapist will provide you with aftercare instructions and book you in for your touch up appointment in 6 weeks," she adds.
Here’s a detailed breakdown of the process:
“You'll have an initial meeting to discuss your desired eyebrow shape, colour, and overall look. The technician may assess your facial features and discuss your preferences,” says Suman. “It's also important to inform the technician of any skin conditions, allergies, or medications you are taking that might affect the procedure at this point,” she adds.
On your next visit, “A topical anaesthetic is applied to minimise discomfort during the procedure. This usually takes about 30 minutes to take effect,” says Suman.
Next, “the brow artist will outline the desired shape using a pencil, ensuring it complements your face and meets your expectations,” explains Suman. “Measurements are taken to ensure symmetry and a natural appearance,” she adds.
Now is when the actual microblading takes place. “Pigment is deposited into the superficial layers of the skin. The technician will periodically check in with you to ensure you're comfortable and satisfied with the progress,” says Suman. “During the procedure, pigment colour is chosen to match or complement your natural brow colour,” she adds.
After, “a follow-up appointment is often scheduled 6-8 weeks after the initial procedure to assess healing and make any necessary adjustments or fill in areas with less pigment,” says Suman.
What aftercare is needed for microblading?
“After the procedure, the technician will provide detailed aftercare instructions to ensure the best results and promote proper healing. The initial healing takes about 7-14 days, during which you may experience scabbing. It’s important to follow the aftercare instructions to ensure optimal results,” says Suman.
Here's what to do…
“Avoid water for the first seven days to keep the area dry. Avoid washing your face directly over the brows and refrain from swimming pools. Also, avoid activities that cause excessive sweating during the initial healing phase,” says Suman. “If the brows do get wet, do not rub, just pat dry the area with a towel,” advises Jaimineey
“This includes saunas, steam and sunbeds during the healing process,” says Jaimineey.
Keep your brows out of direct sunlight for at least two weeks," says Suman, and “after healing, use sunscreen on your eyebrows to prevent fading and the pigment to discolour,” she adds.
"Do not touch or scratch your brows during the healing process and avoid picking to prevent scabbing and potential infection," warns Suman. “If your brows do feel tight or itchy, just tap or pat them to relieve the itchy sensation,” says Jaimineey.
“You can gently cleanse using a mild, fragrance-free cleanser on surrounding areas, but avoid the brow area,” says Suman. Likewise, skip heavy moisturisers. “Stay away from thick creams or oils on the brow area,” she adds. As for makeup, “do not apply makeup directly on or around the brows for at least two weeks, as this can interfere with the healing process,” Suman says.
"Don't schedule in any laser and chemical peels during the healing process," says Jaimineey. Suman also recommends avoiding facials for at least four to six weeks, post-procedure.
“Try to minimise facial movements in the first few days to avoid irritation,” recommends Suman.
“The same goes for your eye mask. Make sure you have a clean set for the first week,” says Suman
“Watch out for excessive redness, swelling, or pus. If any unusual symptoms occur, contact your technician or a healthcare professional,” advises Suman.
How painful is microblading?
According to our contributor, Jade Moscrop, who tried the treatment to report back, “the actual process was uncomfortable, but not painful. If you've had a tattoo (I've got a few), the pain is way less than that of a tattoo. If you haven't been inked, for me it felt no worse than a light scratch. The only off-putting thing, if I'm honest, is the sound. You can hear the blade as it moves across your skin. But, a little less than two hours later and I was all done. The skin felt a little tender but there was no discomfort to write home about. Unlike tattoos, I didn't have any kind of stinging afterwards.”
How have microblading techniques improved over the years?
“Microblading techniques have evolved significantly over the years, leading to improved results, safety, and client satisfaction,” notes Suman.
This includes…
- “Development of high-quality handheld tools with finer needles allows for more precise and intricate strokes, resulting in a more natural appearance,” says Suman.
- Digital machines. “Some artists now use digital tattoo machines that provide better control and consistency in pigment application,” Suman says.
- Pigment formulation. “Modern pigments are often made from better quality ingredients, offering a wider range of colours that last longer and fade more naturally,” notes Suman.
- Allergy testing. “Enhanced formulations have led to fewer allergic reactions, with many artists recommending patch tests prior to treatment,” Suman explains.
- Hybrid techniques: "Combining microblading with shading (sometimes called microshading or ombré brows) caters to various client preferences and skin types, allowing for customisation in results," says Suman. Meanwhile, "nanoblading and micro feathered brows focus on creating a softer and more natural look," says Jaimineey.
- The rise in certified training programs: “This has led to better-informed technicians who understand skin anatomy, pigment selection, and proper application techniques,” Suman says.
- The growth of social media platforms: “This has enabled artists to showcase their work and gain feedback, pushing them to continually refine their skills and techniques,” says Suman.
How does microblading fade and how long does it take to disappear?
According to Jade, in the first few weeks after the treatment, “they were a little heavy at first, but after a few weeks, the colour settled down and even without the top-up, were absolutely perfect. There was some flaking, but it wasn't very noticeable.”
As for longer-term, “results typically last between one to three years, depending on skin type, lifestyle, and aftercare,” says Suman.
- Initial result: “immediately after the procedure, the brows may appear darker due to the healing process and pigment settling,” says Suman.
- First 6-8 weeks: “as the brows heal, the colour may lighten, and you can expect to see some settling of the pigment. Touch-up sessions are usually recommended around this time,” she adds.
- 6 months to 1 year: “many clients will notice a significant fading of pigment by this point. The brows typically lose definition and may require a touch-up to maintain the desired look,” says Suman.
- 1-3 years: :the microblading results can last from 1 to 3 years before completely fading. Over time, the natural colour will lighten, and the strokes may become less distinct. Ultimately, the pigments will fade to a light, ashy hue before they completely disappear," she says. Although, some users have reported that the pigment has lasted longer on them.
As for factors that impact how quickly the treatment fades, “microblading is a semi-permanent procedure, and its fading process varies based on several factors,” says Suman.
“The body naturally exfoliates, causing the pigment to fade over time as new skin cells replace older ones,” says Suman.
“Sunlight can degrade the pigment, leading to faster fading. UV rays break down the colour molecules, so protecting the brows with sunscreen is essential,” Suman points out.
- Oily skin “tends to push pigment out more quickly, resulting in faster fading,” says Suman.
- Dry skin “generally retains pigment longer,” she adds.
“Activities that increase sweating (like exercising), swimming, or frequent facial cleansing can contribute to fading,” says Suman. Likewise, proper aftercare during the healing process makes a difference. “Avoiding excess moisture and sun exposure, can prolong the life of the pigment,” she adds.
Anything else we should know about microblading?
"It’s important to note that microblading is a more permanent solution and cannot easily be reversed so it is important to try all options before making the commitment," notes Jaimineey. To get it right, make sure you do your research. “Ensure your microblading artist is certified and has a good reputation. Look for reviews and before-and-after photos of their work. Don’t hesitate to ask for their portfolio to see the variety of styles and techniques they offer,” recommends Suman.
