With all the different skincare products on the market boasting acid-packed formulas, you might be wondering whether you can use retinol after a salicylic acid face wash. It's a natural question — retinoids are powerful things, and used in the wrong way they can wreck havoc on your skin, especially if you tend towards sensitive, reactive skin.
However, fear not — we're here to clear up (pardon the pun) any skincare worries you have, including combining retinoids and salicylic acid. Below, we answer all the ins and outs so you can go forth and use your skincare with confidence:
What is retinol?
A derivative of vitamin A, retinol is part of a family of compounds called retinoids, that can help accelerate skin cell turnover, unclog pores and help tackle those niggly issues like acne, uneven texture and signs of ageing. It's a powerful ingredient that should be used at its weakest formula when you're starting out, and you can build up your tolerance over time.
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What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a type of exfoliating acid called a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA). It gently dissolves the sticky glue that binds oil and dead skin cells together inside your pores. In doing so, it helps to disperse the gunk that can build up and turn into spots. It's a skin compound that has the ability to actually enter pores, rather than merely sitting on the top layer of skin. One way salicylic acid does this is by travelling through the skin barrier, a protective layer made up of oily lipids — which can be a good thing if you're aiming to treat certain skin issues, but also a negative if you're looking to maintain a healthy skin barrier.
Can I use retinol after salicylic acid?
Combining both of these powerful acids can be really beneficial for certain skin types, but others should be wary, says Nicole Campbell-Watson, an integrative facialist, skin health expert and founder of Face Space: “Absolutely, a lot of people could definitely use a salicylic acid face wash followed by a retinol product. The benefit is that salicylic acid face wash washes off, so the fact that you're rinsing it off will therefore leave less irritation and not make your skin super sensitive to the retinol, versus a leave-on serum. Salicylic acid is there to exfoliate and help with blackheads, open pores and clogged, oily skin. Retinol helps with premature ageing and pigmentation. The two together work really well for the right person.”
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When would retinol and salicylic acid not be a good combination?
“If your skin is more on the reactive side, more sensitive and dry, then your skin barrier might not be super happy using these ingredients together,” explains Nicole. “Sensitivity could show up in the form of tight skin, peeling, blotchiness and inflammation. If that happens, then it might not be the right combination for you,” she explains.
“It's really about using your common sense and understanding what your skin can handle. But certainly, it's not the most highly irritating formats or steps to do for your skin.”
How often should I use retinol and salicylic acid together?
“It's probably not two steps I'd add in every night,” suggests Nicole. “It's nice to give your skin a break from actives now and again. Certainly, if you've built up your skin to have a tolerance to using a retinol every night, then that's absolutely fine. Just maybe don't use a salicylic acid wash every night — maybe keep it to twice a week if your skin is a bit more sensitive. The last thing you want to do is over-dry your skin, which salicylic acid can do. Your skin thrives when it's more balanced rather than stripped. It's all about moderation”. As with everything in life, balance is key.
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And, of course, SPF is your best friend when using actives. “When using these formulas, you're going to be exposing your lovely brand-new skin cells to the sun, so you want to protect it with a good-quality SPF. If you don't, you're just going to be undoing all the good that you've worked so hard for". Amen.
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