Okay, so summer is finally almost here. Long days at the beach, airy sun dresses, and Aperol Spritzes are calling. There's only one problem — after all of those grey skies, we're all looking a little paler than usual. And here comes the eternal dilemma: do you slather on the fake tan to quickly look a little more glowy? Or, do you stay patient and wait for the sun to do its thing? As it turns out, there might actually be a secret third option — what if you layered on some fake tan and did a little real tanning at the same time?
It's a great idea, isn't it? But will it actually work? We spoke to Dr Reena Jasani, a medical aesthetic practitioner and skin specialist at Aesthetics by Reena, and Sabah Karimi, founder of VEXA Beauty, to find out.
Spoiler: we've been using our tanning mitts all wrong.
Can you tan with fake tan already on?
First and foremost, is it even possible to tan while already wearing fake tan? The good news is, yes.
“A self-tan doesn't stop your skin from producing melanin when it's exposed to sunlight, and it doesn't prevent burning,” explained Jasani. “You can still develop a real tan underneath a cosmetic tan."
This is because self-tanners usually only affect the dead top layer of the skin. “Most self-tanners rely on DHA, which reacts with amino acids in the very top, dead layer of skin (the stratum corneum) to create a temporary brown pigment,” says Jasani. “That colour sits superficially and gradually sheds as your skin naturally exfoliates.”
However, with a real tan, UV radiation is actually penetrating the top layer of the skin, interacting with living skin cells.
Are there any risks?
As always, ensuring your skin is suitably protected is crucial — even if you're wearing self-tan already.
“The key point is that self-tan is colour, not protection,” Jasani says. “Unless a product is specifically labelled broad-spectrum SPF (and applied in the correct amount and reapplied), the presence of a fake tan should be treated as offering zero sun protection.”
There are also some aesthetic risks to enjoying a tanning session while wearing fake tan. “Heat, sweat, rubbing from clothing or towels, sand, and repeated sunscreen application can break up a self-tan and make it fade in patches,” she says. “Chlorine and saltwater can speed up dryness, which often makes elbows, knees, ankles, and hands lose colour unevenly.”
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How to tan while wearing fake tan
Karimi suggests panning your tanning session in advance. “Apply [self-tan] the night before or even 24 hours ahead to give it time to fully develop and reduce the chance of it moving around when you start sweating,” she says, explaining how to avoid accidental patchiness. “On the morning of sun exposure, a quick rinse can remove leftover guide colour so what remains is the developed stain, which tends to look more even.”
It's also vital to prioritise sun protection — even if your after a fresh glow. “Use a broad-spectrum SPF 30 to 50 and apply it generously to all exposed skin,” she says. “Choose a lightweight, quick-drying lotion or gel that sets down rather than a slick oil, and reapply at least every two hours, plus after swimming and heavy sweating. When reapplying, press and smooth rather than scrubbing back and forth, especially over areas where the fake tan is most likely to fade unevenly.”
She also recommends reducing friction. “Pat your skin dry instead of rubbing, change out of wet swimwear when possible, and expect strap marks if you spend long periods in the sun,” she says. “Staying hydrated, taking shade breaks, and using a hat or UPF cover-up helps protect skin and also keeps the fake tan from drying out and cracking as it fades.”
Then there's the aftercare. “After the beach, rinse off salt or chlorine, cleanse gently, and moisturise well,” she says. “Hydrated skin holds onto self-tan more evenly, so the fade looks smoother rather than blotchy. If you use exfoliating acids or retinoids on the body, consider pausing them around heavy sun days because they can increase sensitivity and make both irritation and uneven fading more likely.”
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