It’s almost impossible to have a discussion about how to hydrate dry skin without mentioning hyaluronic acid. This hero humectant, often described as a “drink of water for the skin”, attracts and retains moisture, and can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in liquid. Put simply, it can transform skin from parched and dull to plump and glowing, just like that.
It’s no surprise, then, that it tops the ingredients lists of so many cult moisturisers, and makes up an entire category of its own it the form of hyaluronic acid serums. With the ability to provide both instant and longer-term hydration, it instantly gives your complexion a boost, as well as working deep in the skin for lasting benefits.
Plus, since it’s a substance the body produces on its own, hyaluronic acid tends to be well-tolerated, as well as playing nicely with other actives that might already be in your skincare routine. For those with dry skin, what’s not to love?
How does hyaluronic acid work?
“Hyaluronic acid is a great ingredient because it attracts and holds onto water, helping the skin feel plumper and more comfortable,” says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London. “It works a bit like a sponge within the skin’s surface layers, keeping moisture where it’s needed most.”
And the benefits are both short-term and long-term. “Many hydrators either sit on the surface, or absorb too quickly to make a visible difference,” says Dr David Jack, an aesthetic doctor with clinics in London and Edinburgh. “Hyaluronic acid is unusual in that it can both comfort the surface immediately and improve hydration deeper within the skin.”
How good is hyaluronic acid for dry skin?
The beauty of hyaluronic acid is that, since it’s biomimetic - as Dr Jack says, “our skin already knows what to do with it” - it is tolerated by almost all skin types, even sensitive.
“Unlike heavy emollients that can overwhelm oily or breakout-prone skin, hyaluronic acid delivers hydration without weight, greasiness or pore congestion,” he adds.
During the winter months, with their bracing winds and sub-zero temperatures, dry skin is likely to suffer further still, and even oilier skin types might find they experience parched skin in need of additional hydration.
“Cold air, central heating and harsh winds all pull moisture from the skin, leaving it tight and irritated,” says Dr Mahto. “Longer, hotter showers and over-cleansing can also compromise the skin barrier during winter."
Those with very dry skin, or with a weakened skin barrier, will love hyaluronic acid’s ability to plump and hydrate, but will probably find it isn’t enough on its own. “It hydrates well, but it can't replace the lipids that prevent transepidermal water loss [when water evaporates from the skin's surface] in the first place,” says Dr Jack.
For a mega moisture injection, look for formulas that combine hyaluronic acid for dry skin with richer occlusives, or ceramide-based creams - such as Laneige’s Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream Moisturizer and Dr David Jack Skin Cushion Pro-Lipid Recovery Cream - or use a hyaluronic acid serum followed by a separate moisturiser to seal it in.
“Hyaluronic acid works beautifully with ceramides, glycerin and squalane, all of which help to reinforce the moisture barrier,” adds Dr Mahto.
How should a hyaluronic acid product fit into your skincare routine?
When adding a new ingredient into your skincare routine, it’s always important to consider how it will interact with the actives you already use. Thankfully, hyaluronic acid is pretty easygoing.
“Hyaluronic acid plays extremely nicely with others, which is one of the reasons I use it so liberally in my own formulations,” says Dr Jack. “It works beautifully alongside niacinamide for barrier support, peptides for plumping, vitamin C for brightness, and even retinoids.”
Some formulas even combine these powerful actives, balancing them to achieve the best possible results. Consider The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% - a mouthful, but a great pairing of vitamin C and hyaluronic acid - or Elizabeth Arden’s ultra-soothing Hyaluronic Acid + Peptides Ceramide Hydra-Plumping Water Cream.
It’s also true that not all hyaluronic acid products are created equal, and there are actually different ‘weights’ of hyaluronic acid, which perform different functions.
“High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid sits nearer the surface and is excellent for immediate smoothing and calming," explains Dr. Jack. "Low-molecular-weight versions penetrate more deeply and support longer-term hydration, although in very sensitive skin they can occasionally cause irritation.”
For multi-level hydration, pick a product with multiple weights, such as Beauty Pie Triple Hyaluronic Acid or SkinCeuticals Hyaluronic Acid Intensifier Multi-Glycan. And don't forget the skin below your neck. Hyaluronic acid is just as beneficial for the crepey skin on your limbs, so slather on a body lotion that harnesses its power (Vaseline Gluta-Hya Dewy Radiance Serum Burst Lotion is a great option).
