If you’re wondering how to use a hyaluronic acid serum in your daily skincare routine, you’re not alone. The word acid makes it sound like a daunting ingredient to some, but hyaluronic acid is actually a gentle hydrator, far from a strong active ingredient the name makes it out to be.
There are so many hyaluronic acid serum benefits to know. “HA is a true all-rounder, boosting hydration, improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and supporting skin barrier function,” says Dr Clare Kiely, consultant dermatologist and co-founder of The Skin Diary. “It works well alongside other active ingredients (like retinoids, niacinamide and vitamin C), and is generally suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.”
Most often, you’ll find it in facial serums and moisturisers, although brands also include it in makeup, sunscreen, and even haircare. Whether you’re treating dryness, skin-barrier dysfunction, or skin ageing, a HA serum is an essential step to any dry skincare routine.
Meet the experts
- Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, aesthetic doctor, medical consultant and founder of Adonia Medical Clinic.
- Dr Alexis Granite, consultant dermatologist and founder of Joonbyrd.
- Dr Clare Kiely, consultant dermatologist and co-founder of The Skin Diary.
- Jeanine Downie, dermatologist and dermatology lecturer.
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Serum
- Best for: A lightweight gel texture.
- Skin type suitable for: All.
- Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
- Cruelty-free? No.
- Fragranced? No.
Why we love it: According to Dr. Lolis, Vichy’s Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum works to improve the skin on two fronts: Hyaluronic acid plumps and smooths, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while Vichy’s signature French volcanic water helps make skin more resilient to environmental stressors that contribute to visible signs of ageing. Over time, the complexion is visibly smoother and healthier-looking. The gel formula is lightweight without feeling sticky or looking too shiny — it simply absorbs into the skin within moments, providing both an immediate burst of hydration as well as long-lasting results.
What is a HA serum good for?
“A HA serum helps draw water onto the upper layers of the skin, which is useful for reducing dehydration, dryness, and fine surface lines,” explains Dr Ejikeme.
“There are different types of HA, including low and high molecular weights, which work more deeply and more superficially for hydration. The Revolution Skin Ultra Plump Multi-Weight Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum contains both low and high molecular weight HA, which means it can hydrate more deeply.”
Dr Kiely adds that high molecular weight HA remains on the surface, drawing moisture from the environment, whilst low and medium molecular weight HA can absorb into the skin. “Low and medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid has been shown in studies to stimulate fibroblast activity (which are cells in connective tissues which produce collagen) and improve skin elasticity over time,” she says.
Can you use it every day?
“Yes, absolutely,” says Dr Granite. “HA is gentle enough to be used once or twice a day, morning and evening, even on sensitive skin. In fact, consistent use is the best way to maintain optimal hydration and get the most from the ingredient.”
As an ingredient that draws moisture into the skin, you’re not at risk of overusing it like with a retinol or exfoliating acid product.
Almost all skin types will reap the benefits of incorporating the best hyaluronic acid serum into their routine, but Dr Downie says that those experiencing dry or dehydrated skin will benefit the most. But what if your skin type is oily or acne-prone?
Extremely oily skin types can skip HA, Dr Downie notes, although you can still incorporate the hydrating ingredient into your skincare routine if you’d like. "HA serums are lightweight and don’t clog pores, meaning they won’t affect those prone to breakouts,” she explains. “While it can hydrate without trapping or adding any additional oiliness, it may not be necessary to add into your skincare routine.”
And if your skin is sensitive, make sure to do a patch test first (simply apply a small amount of the new product on your skin and see how it reacts).
However, Dr Downie says that people don't usually react to HA. “It's generally well tolerated. If you do experience any irritation, it may be because the product contains fragrance," she comments.
How to use a HA serum in your routine:
The experts reveal the step-by-step method for applying HA serum.
Step 1: Dr Granite advises to cleanse with a gentle, barrier-supporting cleanser, and then leave the skin slightly damp. “I always recommend applying HA to slightly damp skin to maximise moisture retention,” she says.
Step 2: Dr Ejikeme says the next step is to apply a hydrating toner if it's needed. “Then apply a few drops of the HA serum and press it into the skin with your fingertips," she comments.
Step 3: “Follow immediately with a moisturiser to lock that water in. In the morning, finish with a broad-spectrum SPF, but at night, your night cream is your final step,” says Dr Granite.
What should you not mix with HA?
The good news is that HA tends to play well with other ingredients, making it easy to incorporate into your skincare routine with minimal side effects.
A general rule of thumb: “HA can be mixed with water-soluble forms of retinol, vitamin C, AHAs, and BHAs,” says Dr Downie. “You may even see that some hyaluronic-acid-based products are preformulated to include other ingredients, like vitamin B5, niacinamide, peptides, or ceramides.”
What not to mix with HA? Oils, says Dr Downie. “When mixed with oil-based products (like hydrating facial oils), it can look very uneven on the skin,” she says.
If you mix your HA facial serum with something that it doesn’t work well with, you’ll know. "Some can pill when you put them on,” Dr Downie warns. “Either the HA itself, biopolymers, or other additives (or layering with other products) can contribute to pilling in some individuals.”
How long after using HA will I see results?
Dr Ejikeme reveals that skin will usually feel immediately more hydrated. “With regular use, you may see an improvement in plumpness and texture after just a few days,” she says.
Dr Granite agrees. “One of the lovely things about HA is that you can see benefits straight away. Skin looks fresher, feels softer, and has that dewy quality,” she comments. “With frequent use, you’ll notice lasting improvements in smoothness and plumpness, with best results after two to three months.”
What should you consider when shopping for hyaluronic acid?
Not all HA products are created the same, so make sure you’re buying the best one for you.
To buy an effective HA, “consider your skin type, needs, and what ingredients the serum is combined with,” says Dr Downie. For example, acne-prone skin likes lightweight, oil-free formulas with exfoliating acids. Sensitive skin types may want to see if their HA product has calming, soothing ingredients like aloe vera or glycerin.
Or, if you just want to buy a simple, pure HA product, look for ‘sodium hyaluronate’ or ‘hyaluronic acid’ at the beginning of the ingredients list, which will indicate it contains a high amount of the ingredient.
This article originally appeared on Glamour US.
