What is niacinamide? 5 key benefits, according to experts
The word ‘powerhouse’ often prefaces a skincare ingredient – but when it comes to niacinamide, it just so happens to be true. Niacinamide serums boast a laundry list of skin benefits: they balance, brighten, dial down redness, prevent wrinkles, dust off pigmentation, curb oil production and keep the skin barrier strong.
Here, Glamour speaks to the experts on how best to use this ingredient for the most transformative results (yes, there is a right and a wrong way, FYI).
- What is niacinamide?
- What are the benefits of niacinamide for your skin?
- How do you use niacinamide?
- What percentage of niacinamide should I use?
- Which ingredients can you combine with niacinamide?
- Which is better – vitamin C or niacinamide?
- Is niacinamide better than retinol?
- How long before I see results?
- What are the benefits of niacinamide for hair?
Best niacinamide products
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of Vitamin B3. It is water-soluble, meaning that it's not stored in the body, so it's crucial to replenish our niacinamide reserves via the food we eat (poultry, green vegetables and eggs are good sources). “Our bodies require niacinamide for healthy digestion, improved circulation and brain function,” explains Shabir Daya, pharmacist at Victoria Health.
Niacinamide is also an important ingredient for our skin. Aesthetic doctor Dr Barbara Sturm says that niacinamide “has overarching benefits for skin health and has powerful anti-inflammatory properties that can improve skin texture and moisture.”
What are the benefits of niacinamide for your skin?
How you use niacinamide largely comes down to which skincare concerns you're looking to target.
1. Niacinamide reduces redness if you have rosacea or sensitive skin
Niacinamide’s anti-inflammatory properties make it an attractive option for those who suffer from rosacea and sensitivity – both the type that you’re born with, as well as temporary post-product irritation that manifests as redness and stinging.
If you have sensitive skin, you may want to start with this concentration. Good options include Rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid and Kiehl's Ultra Pure 5.0% Niacinamide Oil-Minimising High-Potency Serum, which is made with only 10 ingredients to reduce the chance of a reaction.
2. Niacinamide regulates oil production if you have acne
Niacinamide is especially helpful for oily and combination skin types, explains consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto, as “niacinamide reduces sebum or oil production in the skin, which may indirectly help with the improvement of visible pore size. It can also be helpful in treating mild acne.”
According to clinical facialist Kate Kerr, niacinamide also “has antibacterial effects, which improve congestion and calm breakouts.” But it's important to note that niacinamide isn't a spot treatment like salicylic acid. Rather than zap active pimples, it helps to keep skin balanced in order to prevent breakouts in the first place.
If you suffer from clogged pores, both Glossier Super Pure and The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% & Zinc contain niacinamide and zinc – the perfect duo for strengthening the skin barrier as well as calming spots.
3. Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier
"This makes it especially beneficial for skin prone to dehydration," says Shabir. In practical terms, “niacinamide reduces water loss and increases lipids (ceramides) and proteins found in the skin barrier layer,” notes Dr Mahto, adding that a strong skin barrier keeps irritants and pollution out.
This is also true of the skin from the neck down, which is the reason Vaseline brought out its range of Gluta-Hya body lotions laced with niacinamide, glutathione for brightening and hyaluronic acid for moisture.
4. Niacinamide can help skin age well
According to scientists, niacinamide in skincare products may increase the production of NAD in our skin – a co-enzyme that's crucial for skin cells to repair and renew themselves to minimise the appearance of fine lines.
Niacinamide is also required for the production of collagen, the protein in our skin responsible for keeping it firm, explains Shabir. As an antioxidant, it also protects cells against damage from the sun's UV rays, which ultimately slows skin ageing, says Kate.
5. Niacinamide can help to improve pigmentation
According to plastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor Dr Maryam Zamani, niacinamide is one of the most effective skincare ingredients to incorporate into your regimen (after prescription formulas). "It will help to brighten the skin as well as reduce the production of melanin, which is what causes dark spots," she says.

How do you use niacinamide?
Ideally, you should use niacinamide twice a day, both morning and evening. For the most beneficial results, opt for serums and moisturisers that can be left on the skin for maximum absorption, unlike a cleanser that is immediately washed off.

What percentage of niacinamide should I use?
Any skin type and age can benefit from using niacinamide in their skincare routine. “Niacinamide can be found in a varying range of concentrations in skincare and is usually well-tolerated causing minimal skin irritation," says Dr Mahto. But the percentage, which often ranges from 5% to 10%, will depend on your skin type and concerns.
If you have sensitive skin: Dr Sturm believes 5% is the sweet spot for niacinamide to be ultra-effective while also being non-irritating to your skin (find this concentration in her The Better B Niacinamide Serum). Dr Mahto adds, “ideally ensure that it features highly on the ingredients’ list of a product (top three to five ingredients).”
If you have acne: One study published in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% niacinamide, applied topically twice daily for eight weeks, significantly improved moderate acne. But you'll often find 10% concentrations in the beauty aisle for reducing oil production and improving skin texture. These include Paula's Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster, which contains a potent combination of vitamin B3 and B5 to help reduce oil production and improve skin texture.
Which ingredients can you combine with niacinamide?
The beauty of niacinamide is that it plays nicely with most ingredients and is particularly useful for offsetting the dryness and irritation that comes with gnarlier ingredients such as retinoids.
Retinaldehyde: Retinaldehyde (the most potent non-prescription retinoid) is said to work 11 times faster than retinol to brighten the skin and make lines look fainter. The niacinamide and ceramides in Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum help you to acclimatise to this retinoid more easily.
Peptides: Women over 30 often get spots due to hormonal fluctuations and stress, which means they're looking for a clarifying product that also helps to minimise fine lines. When niacinamide is combined with peptides you not only calm redness from blemishes, but you hydrate and boost cell renewal, too. This is the secret to more uniform, luminous-looking skin when using Medik8's new Niacinamide Peptides.
Hyaluronic acid: When you want to summon skin with added bounce and more refined pores, it makes sense to pair niacinamide with hydrating hyaluronic acid, as found in The Inkey List Niacinamide.
Which is better – vitamin C or niacinamide?
Rather than viewing these ingredients as either/or, Dr Sturm recommends using niacinamide in tandem with vitamin C – “layering the two serums supercharges their brightening effects," she adds.
A key reason for doubling down with this combo is that, while both ingredients fall under the umbrella term ‘brightening’, they have different mechanisms for achieving a more even skin tone. Vitamin C inhibits the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme that is responsible for excess melanin, while niacinamide is thought to prevent the transfer of this pigment within cells.
Is niacinamide better than retinol?
When it comes to dramatically reducing fine lines and wrinkles, Dr Mahto cautions that niacinamide is “probably not the best choice.” For this, retinol remains king as it's stronger and therefore better able to improve cell renewal and stimulate collagen production.
That said, pairing them makes retinol easier to tolerate as niacinamide will improve moisture in the skin and temper irritation.

How long before I see results?
Depending on the severity of your skin concern, you should begin seeing results from your niacinamide serum after two to four weeks, with results improving over time.
What are the benefits of niacinamide for hair?
Niacinamide is now also cropping up in shampoos, scalp serums and leave-in treatments, too. It boosts blood circulation to the scalp to help more nutrients reach the hair follicles and calms an inflamed scalp. Better still, in the same way that niacinamide in skincare boosts collagen production, it helps to build keratin, a protein that strengthens hair strands and reduces breakage.
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.




















