Sometime in my 30s, I suddenly realised that I had a teeny tiny beard. I began, for the first time, to wonder about facial hair removal. First, it was three long, dark hairs, persistently growing and regrowing under my chin. Then, one appeared on the side of my cheek. As I examined these charming new additions to my tweezing routine, it suddenly dawned on me: my entire face was covered in peach fuzz.
This is normal, you are thinking. And you are right. There's nothing strange about having hair on your face. In fact, we all do. And, for the most part, I'm happy to embrace mine and get on with my day. Every now and then, for an event or a particularly important photo, I've found that dermaplaning does the job. (More on that later.)
But not everyone is happy to let their peach fuzz grow freely. And there's nothing wrong with that, either. After all, everyone's facial hair (and yes, again, everyone has some of it) is different. For instance, some women may experience darker, thicker facial hair due to factors like PCOS or genetics. Others may just prefer a smooth, sleek, hairless face. After all, make up goes on like a dream and you'll look fresh even with a side or back light.
If, for whatever reason, you're after a totally hairless face, here, you'll find a complete breakdown of each and every facial hair removal technique, along with the pros and cons from the experts themselves.
- Waxing - who should try it, benefits, downsides
- Dermaplaning - who should try it, benefits, downsides
- Threading - who should try it, benefits, downsides
- Laser - who should try it, benefits, downsides
- Creams - who should try it, benefits, downsides
- IPL - who should try it, benefits, downsides
Yes, you can still get pregnant if you have PCOS.
Waxing
Chances are, you know exactly what waxing is from first hand experience. After all, it's hard to forget having your hair torn out of its follicles.
“Facial waxing works by applying warm wax to the skin and removing it quickly, pulling hair out from the root,” explains Olya Vorodyukhina, founder of Angels Twelve Aesthetics Clinic. “Because it targets the follicle directly, results tend to last longer than shaving or depilatory creams – it's usually around three to four weeks before regrowth becomes noticeable. It also gives a smoother finish, which makes makeup apply more evenly and skin look brighter.”
Sounds pretty good. Let's go a little deeper.
Pretty much anyone who wants longer-laster results than you get from something like dermaplaning. “It’s best for those with medium to coarse hair,” she says.
It's also best for people who don't have sensitive skin and for people who have gentle skincare routines. “For people using strong skincare actives like retinol or prescription acne treatments, it can increase the risk of irritation,” says Vorodyukhina.
It's also best if you aren't prone to breakouts.
Basically, waxing does the job, and it does it well.
“It’s quick and precise, especially on areas like the upper lip, chin or jawline where peach fuzz can be stubborn,” she says.
She adds, “Waxing is also great for people who want longer-lasting results without committing to something more permanent like laser,” she says. ”It's also quicker and a little easier than threading."
- It's quick
- It's precise
- It offers long(ish) results
- It's easier than threading
Waxing can be painful, but it's usually a short, sharp pain that dissipates quickly.
“Expect a short, sharp sting as the wax is removed, followed by a little redness that usually settles within a few hours,” says Vorodyukhina.
Waxing can also sometimes result in ingrown hairs. “Exfoliating gently a couple of days beforehand can help prevent ingrown hairs, and soothing products such as aloe vera are great to calm the skin afterwards,” she suggests.
- It can be painful
- It can leave redness
- It can lead to ingrown hairs
Zero clumps or smudges — you're welcome!
Dermaplaning
A controversial option, dermaplaning involves gently shaving the face straight off the face. “Dermaplaning is a professional exfoliation treatment where a sterile surgical blade is gently glided across the skin to remove the top layer of dead skin cells and fine vellus hair (often called 'peach fuzz'),” explains acne specialist Emily Mawdsley, founder of Emily Jayne Skin Revision. “This not only leaves the skin incredibly smooth, but also allows skincare products to penetrate more effectively and makeup to apply more evenly.”
On the plus side, it's painless, it's easy and it is said to help keep the skin healthy and fresh as it doubles as an exfoliation practice. The downside? Many people fear that shaving of any kind will result in the oh so dreaded side effect of stubble. Rumour has it, dermaplaning can actually cause your hair to regrow thicker and darker.
Nevertheless, Mawdsley promises that it will give you that coveted “glass skin” look. Let's get into it:
Anyone who wants quick, painless, easy hair free skin! But especially those with “dry, dull or uneven skin texture,” recommends Mawdsley.
“It can be a great option for people with mild acne scarring or post inflammatory hyperpigmentation because it encourages cell turnover,” she adds.
There are a few caveats, though. If you have active breakouts, skin wounds or sensitivity, it may not be the best option for you. "I typically avoid dermaplaning for clients with active acne or sensitive skin, as it can irritate the skin further – in those cases, I’ll focus on calming treatments first and revisit dermaplaning once the skin is more stable," she says.
“I love dermaplaning because it’s a quick, non-invasive treatment with immediate results and no downtime,” says Mawdsley. “For many of my clients, particularly those who are self-conscious about facial hair, it’s an instant confidence boost. It’s also an excellent way to avoid breakouts because it clears away dead skin cells that can trap oil and bacteria.”
Another benefit is that it's totally painless. It “feels a bit like a gentle scraping or brushing sensation,” she says.
Results typically last several weeks.
To sum up:
- It's quick!
- It's non-invasive
- It offers immediate results
- No downtime
- It exfoliates the skin and reduces breakouts
- It can help encourage cell turnover and reduce uneven skin texture
- It lasts several weeks
Do a quick Google search and you're sure to find a few dermaplaning horror stories lurking in various corners of the internet – tales of thick stubble or, worse, permanent scarring.
“While dermaplaning is very safe when performed by a trained professional, there are a few things to keep in mind,” says Mawdsley. “There’s a small risk of temporary redness immediately after the treatment, and over exfoliating (ie doing it too frequently) can compromise the skin barrier. I also reassure clients that dermaplaning does not make hair grow back thicker – it will grow back at the same rate and texture as before, although this is a very common myth!”
- Potential redness
- Over exfoliating can mess with the skin barrier
- Results won't last as long as threading, waxing or laser, as less of the hair is being removed
Threading
Like waxing, threading involves ripping the hairs out from the follicle. However, unlike waxing, the threading technique doesn't involve smearing any goop on your face, or using strips. Instead, threading is an ancient East Indian technique, in which a professional uses a twisted thread to pick up hairs and pull them out of the skin.
“It involves soft polyester thread being twisted using a technique which pulls the hair out from its root,” explains Krystal Prince, owner of the glamour room and pro threader.
Threading offers precision, plus, it's relatively quick and no-nonsense. However, from experience, I can confirm that it hurts. Plus, it can leave you with a fair amount of redness.
According to Prince, anyone!
“Threading is great because it is good for anyone,” she says. “We use it for eyebrows and softer hairs, such as above the lip, or on the side of the face. It can remove hair right from the root and for something like brow hair, the technique can give a really nice defined shape because you can be very precise.”
It's also very thorough. “It’s good for getting rid of the thicker hairs as well as the finer vellus bits and it lasts longer as the hairs won’t come back as quickly,” she explains. “I encourage all my clients to have threading because it is amazing!”
Skin irritation? Never heard of her.
“Threading is really soft and gentle on the skin,” says Prince. “We sometimes see an overuse of waxing the eyebrow can result in thinning the skin around the area. You see lots of people are using more active products which they might react to. With threading, you don’t need to worry about a reaction as it’s just a piece of thread. It’s really gentle on the skin as it minimises any tugging and pulling at the skin.”
- Long lasting results
- Precision
- No waxy goop!
Threading can be extra painful and even nick the skin if done by someone who doesn't know what they're doing. “Make sure you go to a fully trained professional,” Prince says. “Threading is a very specialised technique and if its poorly done, it can nick the skin and leave a small friction burn.”
- Can be painful
- Can leave redness
A dermatologist shows us the way.
Laser
Lasers are popular for a reason. They work and they last.
Ok, but how do they work? And are they worth it?
“Lasers target pigmentation within hair follicles, using heat and light at specific wavelengths which are absorbed, causing damage to the follicles and weakening them, reducing their ability to produce new hair,” says Emma Coleman, founder of Emma Coleman Skin.
For people in search of a more long-term solution, laser tends to be the best bet.
Laser works best on people with dark hair because “the laser is able to pick up the melanin or pigment within hair follicles,” she says. “Light and auburn hair types are not suitable for lasers for this reason.”
The semi-permanent results are a big draw. Plus, lasers don't cause damage to the skin, while shaving and even waxing can inadvertently lead to problems like folliculitis, an infection in the hair follicle.
- Long-term solution
- Doesn't damage the skin
The rumours are true: lasers do kind of hurt.
“Laser hair removal machines are equipped with cooling systems to help make the treatment more comfortable, although you may be aware of some heat and a slight 'zap' sensation,” says Coleman. “Afterwards the treated area can feel warm and may appear red. Your therapist should apply aloe vera and the skin should settle quickly.”
It's also not a one-and-done situation. “Hair grows in cycles and most people require at least six sessions to see results,” she says.
Finally, there is a chance for side effects like blistering an burning if the treatment is done poorly.
- It can hurt
- It can leave the skin red
- You'll need at least six sessions
- There's a small chance of blistering and burning
Creams
This one's for the lazier people. The idea of simply rubbing a cream on your body and magically removing all of your unwanted hair is akin to magic. But how effective is it really?
“Hair removal creams work by using alkaline chemicals to break down the protein structure of the hair, known as keratin," says Trish Coulton, hair removal expert and CEO of Bondi Body. "This essentially dissolves the hair just beneath the skin’s surface so it can be wiped or rinsed away, leaving the skin smooth. Because the process doesn’t involve pulling hair from the root, it’s completely pain-free, which makes it an appealing option for many."
Kind of sounds too good to be true. Let's get into more detail.
“These creams are best suited to people who want a quick, affordable and fuss-free method of hair removal that can be done at home,” says Coulton. "They’re especially effective for larger areas like the legs, arms and underarms, and can be a good alternative for those who don’t like the discomfort of waxing."
The pain-free aspect is particularly appealing. Plus, hair removal creams don't come with negative side affects like nasty ingrown hairs.
“The main benefits are that they are easy to use, painless and accessible. They avoid the risk of nicks and cuts you might get from shaving, and they leave the skin feeling soft and smooth almost instantly,” she says.
- Pain-free
- Accessible
- No nicks, cuts or ingrown hairs
- Instant results
Creams kind of are too good to be true, but they're not perfect. For one thing, the results don't last long. At all.
“The downsides are that the results don’t last very long, usually just a few days longer than shaving,” says Coulton.
Plus, some people may find that the creams irritate their skin. “Because of the chemicals used, there’s also the risk of irritation, redness or even mild burns on sensitive skin if the product is left on too long,” she adds. "Some people also find the smell of the creams off-putting, and unlike alternative hair removal methods such as waxing and IPL/laser, they don’t help slow down or reduce hair regrowth.”
- Results don't last long
- Can cause irritation
- They don't slow down hair growth
- They don't exactly smell great
IPL
IPL is a professional hair removal technique that works by, essentially, killing the hair in your face. But it's less scary than it sounds.
“IPL hair removal works by using intense pulses of light that are absorbed by the pigment in the hair. This light converts into heat, which damages the hair follicle and slows down future growth,” says Sharon Bennett, medical aesthetician and founder of Harrogate Aesthetics. “Unlike waxing, which pulls hairs out from the root, IPL is designed to target the follicle itself, meaning regrowth becomes finer and lighter over time, and with repeated sessions, many people see a significant reduction in hair growth altogether.”
IPL is very similar to laser techniques, however, while laser uses a single wavelength of light, IPL uses a broader spectrum of wavelengths.
Aestheticians typically recommend IPL for people “with fair to medium skin and darker hair,” says Bennett. This is because the light needs to pick up on pigment to work. So, if you have lighter hair, it may not be as effective.
One of the great things about IPL is that you won't have to keep going back to the aestheticians very five weeks.
“Once you’ve had a course of treatments, you’ll usually only need occasional top-ups,” Bennett says.
Another benefit is that unlike dermaplaning or even waxing and threading, you will never have to deal with that awkward regrowth period. “Your skin also feels smoother because you’re not dealing with stubble or regrowth between sessions,” she says.
And another benefit? It doesn't hurt. “Typically, you feel a quick, warm flicking sensation as the light pulse hits the skin, but most people describe it as mildly uncomfortable rather than painful,” Bennett says. “The treatment is quick, and any redness usually fades within a few hours. You do need multiple sessions spaced a few weeks apart to get the best results, because hair grows in cycles.”
- Long-lasting results
- No awkward regrowth period
- Relatively pain-free
IPL doesn't work on everyone. If you have light blonde or red hair on your face, it might not get rid of all of the hair. It can also be unsafe on very dark skin tones and result in pigmentation changes.
Then there's the downtime – you may find that you have temporary redness and sensitivity, plus, you'll need to avoid sun exposure both before and after your treatments.
- Temporary redness
- Not suitable for everyone
- Downtime
I suffer from inflammation and early-morning puffiness, so did this help?
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