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Despite what beauty standards would have you believe, everybody has hair on their face. It’s completely normal for women to grow hairs in places we’re told should be dolphin-smooth, from our chin and upper lip to cheeks and jawline – you know, those places where we applaud hair growth in men. There’s no shame in it but, equally, if you want to remove your facial fluff and fuzz for whatever reason, that’s totally your call.
When it comes to removing unwanted hair, most women are au fait with salon services such as threading, waxing, lasering or sugaring. But there’s one method of facial hair removal that is still shrouded in skincare myths and misinformation: dermaplaning.
In case you weren’t already aware, dermaplaning is, essentially, shaving your face. While it may sound like the opposite of all the hair-removing advice you’ve been given, women across cultures have been using it to remove unwanted facial hair and peach fuzz for decades.
Interested in trying it for yourself? Here’s everything you need to know about dermaplaning: the myths, the must-knows and the tried-and-tested method to follow…
The key difference between ‘traditional’ shaving – say, the kind you do on your legs – and dermaplaning is that the latter relies on a small exfoliating blade, rather than a standard razor. This blade removes the top layer of the skin, sloughing away not only hair but also dead skin cells and dirt – so not only are you removing unwanted hairs, you’re getting the skincare benefits of exfoliation, too (more on this later).
There are plenty of facial razors on the market, but not all are built equally. Out of the dozens we’ve tested, the dermaplaning tool we keep coming back to is the Tweezerman Facial Razor, loved by editors, influencers and makeup artists for creating the perfect canvas for makeup. It’s easy to handle and uses a super-fine, stainless steel blade, which is sanitary, durable, easy to clean and gives optimal results. It also comes with three replacement blades (note: you should replace the razor blade every 2-3 months).
Probably the biggest misconception about facial shaving (and shaving in general) is that it makes your hair grow back thicker. We can confirm this isn’t true: shaving hair only cuts the hair at the surface of the skin, so this doesn’t affect its thickness, colour or rate of growth because you aren’t changing the structure of the follicle. Some hair on your face is naturally paler and wispier – this is known as ‘peach fuzz’ (or vellus hair) and typically grows around your cheeks and jawline. The hair on your brows – and sometimes also your chin and upper lip – is known as terminal hair (the same as the hair on your head), which is naturally coarser and darker than vellus hair. New hairs may appear to be thicker after shaving, but this is just because they’re having to push through the skin’s surface as they grow back.
If done correctly, dermaplaning is a completely pain-free and effective skincare and hair removal solution. The most obvious word of caution is to use a light hand to avoid cuts to the skin.
There’s often concern that dermaplaning can lead to breakouts and irritation, particularly on acne-prone or sensitive skin. But when done correctly and with the right equipment, dermaplaning has actually been shown to clear dirt and oil from the skin, while increasing the absorption of skincare products applied afterwards.
That being said, as with any device or tool applied to the skin, preparation is key. If your skin isn’t adequately prepped or cleansed prior to dermaplaning (more on this below), bacteria can spread, which can lead to breakouts or irritation. It’s also important to note that those with some skin conditions – such as eczema or a current outbreak of acne – should avoid dermaplaning, or speak to a dermatologist first.
Again, false. Unlike other methods of facial hair removal that should be done by a professional, such as threading and laser hair removal (which are more costly as a result), dermaplaning can be safely (and cost-effectively) done at home – if you know what to do…
Step 1: Start with clean and moisturised skin. You can also dermaplane as you wash your face, while your face wash is still on the skin.
Step 2: After removing the cap from the tool, hold the razor at an angle and apply short, feathery strokes downward and with light pressure anywhere you need to remove excess hair.
Step 3: Once finished, rinse the face and apply moisturiser (and serum, if you wish – just make sure it doesn’t contain any harsh actives that could cause irritation) to avoid drying out the skin.
Step 4: Rinse your razor with warm water or wipe clean with an alcohol wipe. Once dry, replace the cap and store, ready for next time.
Following the steps above, I found the Tweezerman Facial Razor not only quick and straightforward to use, but so satisfying. I was shocked at how much hair was removed from my cheeks and how remarkably smooth my skin felt afterwards. I cleansed thoroughly beforehand and followed with a soothing moisturiser for sensitive skin, and didn’t suffer any breakouts or irritation. In fact, quite the contrary – there’s been a subtle but noticeable improvement to my complexion, with more glow and an evened-out skin tone. It’s difficult to know whether this is due to increased absorption of my skincare products thanks to dermaplaning, or the many other factors that can contribute to improved skin tone (I’ve been making a conscious effort to drink more water lately). But one thing’s for sure: my makeup glides on so much better since dermaplaning, and has a more even finish. It’s definitely become a new step in my beauty routine.
If you’re concerned about excess facial hair, speak to your GP or a qualified dermatologist.
To shop Tweezerman’s range of hair removal products – including alternatives to dermaplaning such as tweezers and brow scissors – visit tweezerman.co.uk and use discount code Glamour20 for a 20% discount.
