11 winter skincare tips to tackle a dry, sensitive face when it's freezing outside
Our skin weathers its fair share of dehydration and stress at this time of year. So a winter skincare routine, packed full of nourishing ingredients and a squad of targeted products, is helpful for restoring a dewy-fresh sheen to withered skin.
When the temperature drops, our skin is faced with a triple threat. Arctic blasts and low humidity outdoors first sap it of moisture. They also rile up sensitive complexions, so it's absolutely possible to have a sore, dull surface – peppered with blemishes – and crusty, dry skin.
Our hibernation tactics don't help either, as central heating and hot baths send already dry skin into a tailspin. And then there's an often overzealous approach to exfoliation and actives.
All of which means you're looking at a complex set of demands for your winter skincare products to tackle. So how about we fix this. We’ve pulled together smart tips, do-able routine strategies and product recommendations – with a little help from the experts.
In this article:
→ Identify dry skin caused by the weather vs a product
→ Switch up your cleanser
→ Press pause on gritty facial scrubs
→ Use a layering technique
→ Only apply hyaluronic acid to damp skin
→ Focus on your skin barrier
→ Look for beta-glucan in the formula
→ Switch to granactive retinol
→ Avoid water-based gel formulas
→ Implement the 3-minute rule
→ Get a professional opinion
1. Identify dry skin caused by the weather vs a product
Dry, weather-beaten skin "often appears dull and may get oily as the day progresses," says facialist Teresa Tarmey.
But if your skin is dry and red, and you experience stinging with product application, it's likely caused by a product in your beauty routine. Look at what you’re using that might be spiking your irritation and dehydration – and switch it out of your routine.
When used correctly, stimulating products such as vitamin C, pore-purging clay masks and intensive peels can be transformative marvels – the evidence is out there. But if your skin is compromised from either the weather or from product overload, the expert advice is to pull back on the big guns and store them away for when your complexion has re-calibrated and calmed down.
You're about to find out.
2. Switch up your cleanser
If you have dry or dehydrated skin, over-cleansing with foaming formulas can strip skin of the crucial natural oils that help strengthen and protect the skin barrier. Instead, go gentle with a milk, oil or balm cleanser – using warm water and a soft flannel – morning and night. “Look for ingredients like aloe, glycerin, or other humectants to maintain moisture,” adds Teresa.
3. Press pause on gritty facial scrubs
It's still important to exfoliate during the winter months as cell turnover slows down. Dead skin cells can block pores, upping the chance of breakouts, and prevent your winter skincare from sinking in properly.
But it's also important to be kind to your skin, which is dealing with unusually high levels of inflammation. Look to gentle acids for exfoliating rather than a harsh abrasive scrub, says Dr Christine Hall, a pharmacist and aesthetic doctor.
She's a fan of polyhydroxyacids, also known as PHAs. “Polyhydroxyacids are bigger molecules than AHAs (such as glycolic acid), so they do not penetrate through the skin barrier as deeply," Dr Hall says, adding that they do a good job of exfoliating the skin's surface.
The Inkey List PHA Toner and Medik8 Press & Glow are good options and you can currently get a full-size bottle of the Trinny London Tiptoe In PHA Exfoliant in GLAMOUR's new Beauty Box.
Teresa, meanwhile, prefers lactic acid in the winter months: “It's an effective-yet-gentle option, and leaves the skin smooth and glowing.”
4. Use a layering technique
"You need a skincare ‘wardrobe’ at this time of year more than any other,” says Caroline Hirons, skincare expert and founder of Skin Rocks, who recommends cleanser, toner, serum, moisturiser, face oil and SPF.
But you also need to layer products correctly, starting with more watery textures (face mist/essence) to aid absorption. Then move on to your serum, which will shuttle humectants and actives into the deeper layers of your skin. Hyaluronic acid is a hero for hydration, while a serum rich in antioxidant vitamin C is great for wearing under SPF when you're skiing as snow reflects up to 80% of the sun’s light.
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CeraVe Skin Renewing 10% Pure Vitamin C Serum
CeraVe Skin Renewing 10% Pure Vitamin C Serum
- Best for: Smoothing fine lines and brightening.
- Skin type: All skin types, particularly sensitive and mature skin.
- Key ingredients: L-ascorbic acid, hyaluronic acid and essential ceramides.
- Tested by: Sophie Cockett.
Why we love it: “I was one of the first to get my hands on it,” Sophie said, “and I've been loving it and using it almost every day." The CeraVe team told me that Vitamin C is generally well tolerated by all skin types, but when used at higher concentrations it can cause irritation – especially in those with very sensitive skin. That's why this product was launched. They wanted to create something formulated with 10% pure vitamin C that's suitable for sensitive skin works to target fine lines, dullness and texture.
"I love how lightweight this serum feels on my skin. It's never at all sticky, and it doesn't feel oily like other formulations I've tried. My skin definitely feels brighter, as well as more hydrated – thanks to the inclusion of Essential Ceramides and Hyaluronic Acid. The price point is great, too. The only thing I don't like is the tin packaging, which I've found to split half-way down during use and create a secondary output for the product,” says Sophie Cockett, GLAMOUR's Senior European Commerce Editor.
While moisturiser also plays a crucial role in the hydrated skin equation, it serves a different purpose. It is an occlusive – meaning it sits on the top layers of your skin to trap moisture and keep them supple.
“Due to their bigger molecular structure and occlusive properties, moisturisers may not penetrate as deeply as serums, so use them to 'lock in' the ingredients from your serum," advises Teresa.
The same is true of face oils, which should be applied at night over serum and moisturiser as the last step in your routine. Once on the skin, they drip-feed plant oils such as wild rosehip (found in both Pai's Rosehip Bioregenerate and Georgia May Jagger's Golden Hour Face Oil), fatty acids and antioxidants into the top layer to nourish, brighten and protect.
As for how much product to you use? “This depends on your skin, but a general rule of thumb is to start with ‘less is more’ and, if your skin is still absorbing the product, keep going," says Caroline.
You're probably doing it wrong.
5. Only apply hyaluronic acid to damp skin
A single gram of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six litres of water so you can see why the beauty world is so obsessed with it for hydration. But there is one caveat. Hyaluronic acid, by nature, pulls moisture into the skin so avoid applying it to dry skin in a dry climate like a heated bathroom.
“You could actually be making your skin drier,” warns aesthetic doctor, Dr Sophie Shotter. "Hyaluronic acid will draw moisture from wherever it can find it to hydrate the surface of your face, including the deeper layers of your skin if there is no humidity in the air."
An easy solution is to apply your hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin after cleansing. Or use a face mist laced with hyaluronic acid – such as Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Hydrator Mist or Balance Me's Hyaluronic Plumping Mist – after cleansing and apply your serum over the top.
L'Oréal Paris 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid Revitalift Filler Serum
L'Oréal Paris 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid Revitalift Filler Serum
- Best for: Smoothing and plumping.
- Skin type suitable for: All.
- Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
- Cruelty-free? No.
- Fragranced? No.
- Tester: Katie Leirey, Senior SEO Manager.
Glamour-editor review: I’ve used L’Oréal products for years - in fact, it was one of the first skincare brands I ever got into, so there’s a real sense of familiarity there for me. I’d also heard loads about this serum over the years, so I was keen to see if it lived up to the hype. I used it consistently for about a month, basically through the worst of winter, and kept reaching for it whenever my skin was looking a bit tired, flat and in need of extra hydration.
I also really liked the packaging - the purple glass bottle looks chic on my shelf, and the dropper made it easy to get the right amount out. The texture is light and silky, and it gave my skin that nice plump, fresh look straight away. After using it, my complexion definitely looked smoother, bouncier and a little more glowy. The only downside for me was that it did pill a bit under makeup, so I ended up liking it much more as an evening serum.
Save big when shopping for the best hyaluronic acid serums with these Amazon discount codes.
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Serum
- Best for: Hydration and reducing the appearance of fine lines.
- Skin type suitable for: All.
- Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5.
- Cruelty-free? No.
- Fragranced? No.
- Tester: Shani Cohen, Glamour's Beauty Commerce Writer.
Glamour-editor review: I’ve used La Roche-Posay for years and, as a sensitive-skin girlie, it’s one of those brands I know well and genuinely trust. Whenever my skin is feeling reactive, dehydrated or just generally not at its best, it’s a brand I find myself coming back to, so I had high hopes for the Hyalu B5 serum.
I used this consistently for a full month and really loved the results, especially during winter when my skin was at its driest and dullest. Made with a blend of two types of hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5, it left my face feeling noticeably more hydrated, looking plumper and giving my skin that healthy, dewy finish I’m always after. Over time, my complexion just felt more comfortable and supple overall.
I used three to four drops each time, as advised, and found the pipette especially handy for dispensing exactly the right amount without waste. The texture is definitely on the stickier side, which may not be for everyone, but I actually found that worked in its favour - it layered well and doubled up nicely as a gripping base under makeup.
I also really appreciate that it’s fragrance-free, paraben-free and oil-free, which makes it a great option not only for sensitive skin types, but for oily complexions too. For me, it delivered exactly what I want from a hyaluronic acid serum: deep, lasting hydration and a fresher, bouncier-looking finish.
Save when shopping for the best hyaluronic acid serums with these Sephora discount codes.
6. Focus on your skin barrier
The skin barrier refers to the outermost layer of skin that protects against outside aggressors and seals in hydrating lipids. Needless to say, it's especially important to fortify it during the winter months when skin yo-yos between hot and cold temperatures.
"These [temperatures] play havoc on the skin barrier, so avoid doing anything to your skin that will aggravate it further,” notes Dr Hall.
Ceramides – also known as lipids or fats – are naturally produced by our sebaceous glands and make up around 30-40% of your skin barrier. So it makes sense to choose skincare that includes this ingredient as it is recognised by the skin.
“When the weather gets colder, and as we age, our sebaceous glands get smaller and we produce fewer ceramides, which causes our skin to be drier,” Dr Hall notes, adding that she swears by Dr Jart’s Cermadin Skin Barrier Serum Toner for her own skin in winter. “The serum-toner hybrid combines these two steps into a rich, liquidy moisturiser, creating the perfect base for the rest of your skincare routine.”
It's also worth scouting out products powered by niacinamide, which increases ceramide production in the skin as well tempering inflammation.
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Sunday Riley B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum
Sunday Riley B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum
- Strength: 10%.
- Cruelty-free? Yes.
- Key ingredients: Powerful antioxidants trans-resveratrol and EGCG.
- Skin type: Suitable for all skin types.
Why we love it: Ideal for use over the face, neck and décolleté, Sunday Riley's niacinamide serum is suitable for all skin types and is formulated to encourage a more even, brighter complexion. The niacinamide helps reduce the appearance of pores and calm redness and blemishes, while the brightenyl, a biotechnologically created molecule, helps brighten the skin and soothe sensitivity. It also includes powerful antioxidants trans-resveratrol and EGCG, both of which protect the skin from the impacts of stress and pollution. Dark spots, be gone.
Enjoy savings when shopping for niacinamide serums using these Space NK discount codes.
7. Look for beta-glucan in the formula
Few skincare ingredients can boast that they're more effective than hyaluronic acid at plumping up thirsty skin in plummeting temperatures. But beta-glucan – a complex sugar, derived from yeast, fungi, seaweed or oats – is a good contender for the title.
Like hyaluronic acid, it is a humectant that attracts water to itself and floods skin with moisture. But that is where the similarities end.
“Beta-glucan is 20% more hydrating than hyaluronic acid," says aesthetic doctor Dr Wassim Taktouk, who recommends Skinceuticals' Epidermal Repair to those with very dry or irritated skin at this time of year.
“In addition, we have found this ingredient also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, meaning that it will help to restore and repair the skin barrier," he adds. "Some studies have shown that the molecules themselves link together to form an invisible barrier over the skin surface, protecting against environmental stresses."
8. Switch to granactive retinol
Winter is typically hailed as the best time of year to start using retinol as you have less sun exposure to contend with. However, the type of retinol you lean on could mean the difference between spruced up skin and a sore, scaly complexion.
This is where granactive retinoid or hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR for short), is especially helpful, since it is 10 times more potent than pure retinol but it is also a lot gentler.
So even sensitive skin can tackle multiple concerns including acne, pigmentation, fine lines and rough texture.
“Retinoids accelerate the growth of skin cells but some molecules are more irritating than others because this acceleration causes inflammation,” says 111Skin founder, Dr Yannis Alexandrides. "Granactive retinol is less inflammatory due to the chemical composition of the molecule,” which, unlike traditional retinol, doesn't need a messy conversion process within the skin to boost cell turnover.
9. Avoid water-based gel formulas
Dewy, water-based moisturisers are ideal in summer because they feel weightless and cooling on the skin. But in the same way that water freezes on a windscreen in winter, gel formulas with a high water content can freeze on the surface of the skin, leading to broken capillaries.
For insurance against flaky skin, look for moisturisers powered by fatty acids, which are typically richer and cosset the skin in an occlusive blanket of cream. Hailey Bieber's Rhode Barrier Butter, an intense ‘buttery’ balm, is an excellent example and uses murumuru butter as a key ingredient. While Murad's Cellular Hydration Barrier Repair Cream is laced with fatty acids from bilberry omegas and promises to lock in barrier hydration for 24 hours.
10. Implement the 3-minute rule
“As appealing as it is to sink into a steaming bath, water that is too hot can strip the skin's natural oils, leaving it feeling dry,” says Kim Cochrane, head of education at Wildsmith Skin. “I would suggest opting for a lukewarm bath instead. Just 10 minutes of soaking time is enough time for your body temperature to rise.”
There is also a three-minute window to apply your body lotion afterwards – wait any longer and moisture starts evaporating from the skin. Put simply, slather your cream onto damp skin as it will absorb more readily and do so with the bathroom door closed to trap the hydrating steam.
11. Get a professional opinion
If your winter skin woes are bordering on unbearable and emotionally disruptive, it could be reassuring to show your face to a pro for a really good inspection or try a virtual skin consultation.
La Roche-Posay offers a free 15-minute online consultation with one of its brand experts, while Skin + Me offers an online consultation with a qualified dermatologist before prescribing a personalised treatment plan for £29.99 per month. Similarly, GetHarley will match you to a practitioner so you can discuss your skin concerns over a 30-minute video call for £40.
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
