It's the million dollar question. How to layer skincare correctly? Seriously. What on earth is the correct skincare order? Where do the best sunscreens sit between skincare and makeup? And how to layer serums, if we have more than one to apply?
It's all well and good us spending our hard-earned pennies on a great basic skincare routine, but if we're not applying our products in the right order, we could be wasting our time and money – and that's a hard no.
It's time to stop mentally juggling cleansers, toners and moisturisers, and get your skincare routine down, because we said so. But also, because Beyoncé's dermatologist said so, too.
Dermatologist Dr Lancer (who works with Margot Robbie, Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Lopez, as well as Queen Bey), says that knowing how to layer skincare correctly is essential for healthy skin. “Properly applying and layering your skincare products means better, more noticeable results for your skin in the long run. If you have been using a product and not seeing the results you were hoping for, you could be applying it at the wrong time of day, or in the incorrect order.”
So, pull up a chair and get ready to soak up expert wisdom, because the skincare greats are about to spill their best tips on layering skincare like a pro.
- 1 – Choose your customised skincare routine wisely
- 2 – Layer from lightest to heaviest
- 3 – Apply water based serums before oil based serums
- 4 – Always add a hyaluronic acid serum
- 5 – Use a retinol all year round
- 6 – Never forget SPF
- 7 – Go low and slow if you have sensitive skin
- 8 – Avoid these key combinations
- 9 - Leave 30 seconds between applying products
- 10 - Apply these products to damp skin
- How to structure our daytime skincare regime
- How to structure your nighttime skincare regime
Meet the experts
- Dr Lancer, A-List dermatologist
- Dr Dev Patel, aesthetic doctor and founder of CellDerma
- Dr Ash Soni, plastic and reconstructive surgeon and Global Key Opinion Leader at AlumierMD
- Dr Nina Bal, advanced facial aesthetics clinician and founder of Facial Sculpting
- Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research at Medik8
- Lucy Hilson, aesthetics business consultant and founder of Cosmetic PR
Tip 1 – Choose your customised skincare routine wisely
A customised skincare routine is always a good idea, because no single product has all the required components to suit all skin types and skin concerns. Your skin might benefit from the best vitamin C serums every day and a retinol every other day, while someone else might want to apply these more – or less. "Layering up your skincare is a great way to address multiple concerns at once," confirms Lucy Hilson, aesthetics business consultant and founder of Cosmetic PR.
Advanced facial aesthetics clinician and founder of Facial Sculpting, Dr Nina Bal, says that a customised skincare routine should have three pillars: protect, nourish and activate.
“Firstly, we want to work to protect the skin from harmful UV rays and free radicals by using SPF and vitamin C. Then, nourishing the skin with the correct actives is essential, so I'd add a hyaluronic acid serum and peptides. And lastly, we want to activate your collagen production by using a retinol,” she explains.
Tip 2 – Layer from lightest to heaviest
The “how to layer skincare” golden rule is to apply your products from the thinnest texture to the thickest. "My general recommendation is that any thin products like serums or liquid treatments go first," explains Dr Lancer. This way they can be fully absorbed by the skin before any heavier creams are applied.
"Thinner products can’t penetrate through the barrier of thicker products. If you don't apply your products in the correct way, you could essentially be cancelling out the benefits of the previous product you’ve applied," says Lucy.
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Tip 3 – Apply water-based serums before oil-based serums
As for how to layer serums? "Always apply water-based serums before oil-based serums or face oils. Like a hyaluronic acid first, over an oil-based vitamin C," explains Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research at Medik8. If you're unsure, apply both textures on your hand to see which is thicker.
If the consistencies are both the same, the second thing to remember is to apply the most active ingredient first. "When applying serums apply the most active first, and go with the ingredient that you want your skin to benefit from most," says Lucy. "If your biggest concerns are acne and blemishes, go for a salicylic acid serum. Or if it's pigmentation, opt for vitamin C first," she advises.
And thirdly, some serums work better in the evening than the morning and vice versa. The two main ones to remember are vitamin C and retinol. "Vitamin C is best applied in the morning, as it can help protect cells against pollution and other environmental aggressors that you may come across during the day," says Lucy.
Retinol works best in the evening as it can increase your skin's sensitivity to sunlight, so rather than applying them both together, you'd apply them at different times of the day.
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Tip 4 – Always add a hyaluronic acid serum
Plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Dr Ash Soni, reveals that hyaluronic acid is one of the key ingredients in optimising the hydration and health of our skin. There are countless hyaluronic acid benefits that we've reeled off in our guide, but in short, “hyaluronic acid naturally exists in the skin but depletes with time, leaving a more dehydrated appearance. Hyaluronic acid plays an important role in helping skin cells work more optimally,” he says.
Dr Dev Patel, aesthetic doctor and founder of CellDerma, is an advocate for a hyaluronic acid serum over a hyaluronic acid moisturiser. “Using hyaluronic acid in a serum form maximises the ingredient's benefits,” he says. “Serums contain concentrated active ingredients, and their smaller molecules allow them to penetrate deeper into the skin than moisturisers, delivering more effective results.”
“I'd always recommend adding a hyaluronic acid serum to your routine if you want a dewy glow," adds Dr Bal. "I particularly love the Dermalogica Smart Response Serum.”
Tip 5 – Use a retinol all year round
If you thought that retinol was a spring-autumn-winter thing and was absolutely not to be used in summer, think again.
“Retinol can be used all year round, but it’s essential to understand that retinol increases our skin's sensitivity to sunlight,” explains Dr Soni. “This makes it increasingly important to use an SPF whilst you're using a retinol (my recommendation would be the AlumierMD Sheer Hydration Broad Spectrum SPF 30 to combat oxidative ageing). I would then recommend adding the AlumierMD Retinol Resurfacing Serum into your nighttime routine as your last serum, before your night cream.”
Dr Bal agrees. “You can use retinol all year round. However, if you are planning a beach holiday, stop using the retinol two weeks prior and don’t take it with you. You can use retinol in summer, just not while actively sunbathing."
And if you're a loyal member of the sensitive skin club and can only dream of using retinol, Dr Patel recommends using a low strength. “0.25% retinol may be more appropriate, or you may need to avoid traditional retinol altogether. However, new formulas are always emerging which offer superior potency with far less risk of irritation. One excellent option is CellDerma’s Retin-ACE, which contains an advanced retinoid called hydroxypinacolone retinoate, or HPR.
“Unlike retinol, HPR doesn’t need conversion in the skin, delivering prescription-level results with usually zero side effects. It’s well-suited for sensitive skin, all year round,” he says.
La Roche Posay
La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum
La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum
- Retinoid concentration: 0.3%.
- Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
- Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
- Product size: 30ml.
Why we love it: This night-time serum is suitable for all skin types, especially for those prone to sensitive skin. In addition to its gentle 0.3% retinol content, the serum complex also includes other ingredients, such as vitamin B3 and glycerin, to keep your skin nourished and hydrated.
Tester: Elle Turner, Glamour's Senior Beauty Editor.
Tip 6 – Never forget SPF
As well as never forgetting your face sunscreen, it's also super important to apply it as your last skincare step, before any makeup application. And choose a dedicated SPF – you won't get the full protection if you choose a foundation with SPF 20, for example.
Dr Patel confirms that SPF should always be the last skincare product you apply. “SPF works as a protective layer, so applying more skincare on top of it can disrupt its effectiveness,” he explains. “If you want to apply makeup on top, let your SPF settle for a minute or two first.”
The founder of CellDerma adds that reapplication of your SPF is just as important as the first layer. “No matter the SPF level, sunscreen should be applied at least 30 minutes before going outdoors and reapplied every two hours (or immediately after swimming or sweating) to ensure effective protection,” he says.
If you've got a full face of makeup on, don't sweat it - just apply an SPF face spray to stay protected throughout the day. Otherwise, shop Korean sunscreens and sunscreens for sensitive skin.
Tip 7 – Go low and slow if you have sensitive skin
Sensitive skin girlie? Us too. It may be tempting to excitedly smother your skin in a brand new product, but it's best to go carefully, especially if it's an active.
“Try introducing active ingredients in the evening first, and when you’re able to tolerate them (so when you have no signs of sensitivity or irritation) you can potentially add a second active in the morning too,” advises Daniel. “When introducing new products, go low in strength and be slow to introduce it into your regime, like once or twice a week, every other night.”
Tip 8 – Avoid these key combinations
A big no-no in how to layer skincare is retinol and acids. As they're both powerful ingredients, layering them together can lead to irritation and a damaged skin barrier. “Retinol and AHAs and BHAs both exfoliate the outer layer of skin, so mixing the two can cause dryness, sensitivity, irritation, and redness,” explains Lucy. If you're dealing with a dry skin type, check out our skincare routine for dry skin.
Likewise, benzoyl peroxide and retinol is a combination best avoided. "Benzoyl peroxide oxidises retinol, meaning it cancels out the retinol's benefits to the skin. But as well as that, it can be irritating to the skin if they're applied together," adds Lucy. If a product is tingly but tolerable and effective, combine it with gentle next steps, like a nourishing vitamin E moisturiser.
Tip 9 - Leave 30 seconds between applying products
The only way we could be more guilty of this is if you caught us red-handed in the cookie jar. In a world where we get home from work and rush to the gym or sofa depending on your personality, leaving time between your skincare steps (even as little as 30 seconds) can quickly be forgotten.
“Allowing products to settle between steps helps with absorption and prevents pilling. In most cases, 30-60 seconds is enough, but if your skin still feels tacky, wait until it’s slightly drier before layering the next product,” advises Dr Patel. “For active ingredients like retinoids, waiting a little longer can improve effectiveness and reduce the risk of irritation. For sunscreen, allow this to set for at least two minutes before makeup, so it forms an even, protective film.”
Tip 10 - Apply these products to damp skin
Which is better for applying skincare products, dry skin or damp skin? The answer is both - depending on the product you're using. “Applying certain skincare products to slightly damp skin can boost absorption and help lock in moisture. Damp skin is more permeable, allowing hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid to draw in and retain more water. Make sure your skin is only lightly damp, not dripping,” says Dr Patel.
But this rule doesn't apply for all products, with Dr Patel revealing that oil-based formulas are best applied on dry skin, as they can separate and absorb less effectively on damp skin. “Retinol or acids are best applied to dry skin as well, to reduce irritation and ensure controlled absorption,” he says.
If in doubt, remember Dr Patel's golden nugget. “In general, serums and lightweight moisturisers can be applied to damp skin, while potent actives should always go on dry skin.”
How should we structure our daytime skincare regime?
During the day, your beauty regime should focus on protecting your skin from UV rays and environmental aggressors, such as dust and pollution. "At Medik8 we like to keep it super simple," says Daniel. "Vitamin C and sunscreen by day, and retinol by night. Then, additional products and active ingredients can be added to treat specific skin types and concerns."
An example of a good morning routine:
1. Cleanse
Cleansing in the morning is an important step to refresh your skin and prepare it for the day ahead. It also creates a clean canvas that helps your serums, moisturiser and sunscreen absorb more effectively.
"Cleansing is the first step of any good skincare routine," says Lucy. “Cleanse each morning with a cream or oil based cleanser to remove any dead skin, oils or sweat that may have built up overnight."
2. Tone (optional)
Toners are an optional step, but we personally always tone - as does our expert Lucy. "Toners balance the skin’s pH, hydrate, and remove any remaining product from the skin," she says. Toners can also offer up some exfoliating benefits. "If you want to incorporate acids into your skincare, a toner containing them is a great way to start. I would recommend a lactic acid or a mild glycolic. However, if you plan to use a retinol at night, I'd skip using acid toners and go for a balancing or calming toner instead."
3. Vitamin C
Vitamin C is an absolute skin superfood due to its powerful antioxidant properties and ability to brighten and even skin tone. It also helps to provide an extra layer of protection (in addition to your SPF) against sun exposure and pollution, while stimulating collagen production for firmer, plumper skin. If you use a vitamin C serum regularly, it can fade dark spots, reduce dullness and promote a healthy, radiant glow.
4. Active ingredient (optional)
You can apply another serum over your vitamin C if you want to, and the ingredient Dr Patel recommends looking for is growth factors. “In my opinion, growth factors are the single most powerful and impactful ingredient you need in your routine. They can reverse signs of ageing and repair damage by triggering the process for essential cell repair,” he reveals.
"CellDerma’s GF5 Next Generation Serum combines five bioidentical vegan growth factors with over 20 actives, including peptides, copper tripeptide-1, and ceramides, making it a true all-in-one hero serum. Use morning and evening, or once daily for lasting results,” he says.
5. Moisturiser
Then, you need to lock in all the goodness of your serums with a moisturiser. Serums are great for delivering concentrated ingredients into the skin, but they don’t moisturise. Without applying a moisturiser afterwards, the hydration from your serum can quickly evaporate, leaving your skin feeling tight, dry or even irritated over time.
"A good moisturiser will improve the barrier function of the skin and lock in all those active ingredients that are working to give you a beautiful and healthy complexion. You can use the same one for morning and night, but I’d recommend using a lighter one in the morning, then a thicker one at night. Often night creams also contain ingredients that help the skin's overnight repair process," says Lucy.
6. Sunscreen
You know the drill - apply SPF everyday, no buts. After all, the girl math doesn't add up if you're applying lots of targeted skincare products, only to damage your skin from the sun anyway. By wearing sunscreen everyday, you’re not only shielding your skin from sunburn but also preserving its overall health and radiance.
"A broad spectrum SPF should always be applied every day, even during the winter months. A makeup product containing SPF doesn't count! SPF is particularly important when using high potency ingredients such as AHA/BHA acids and retinol, as the skin is more prone to sun damage," says Lucy.
How to structure your nighttime skincare regime
Your nightly skincare regimen should follow the same order as your daytime regimen, but there's no need for sunscreen. In the evening, your routine should focus on rejuvenating and repairing the skin, featuring potent ingredients like retinol, which is always best used at night since it increases photosensitivity in the skin.
An example of a good evening routine:
1. Double cleanse
Double cleansing in the evening is the best way to thoroughly clean your skin after a long day. It ensures your skin is deeply cleansed without being stripped, allowing it to better absorb your night-time skincare products. Plus, double cleansing not only helps prevent clogged pores and breakouts, but also leaves your skin feeling refreshed and ready to repair itself overnight.
"In the evening it's always beneficial to double cleanse, as this will ensure you remove all traces of SPF, makeup and impurities from the skin. Start with an oil or cream based cleanser, then follow up with a second cleanser to make sure your skin is really clean," says Lucy.
2. Active ingredient (optional)
If you want to introduce an active ingredient into your routine, this is the perfect step to do so - but only if you're not using a retinol as your next product. Combining retinol and acids isn't advised, as it can make the skin irritated and sensitive.
And for how to layer serums? Apply the product with the targeted ingredient you most want to benefit from first. Adding something like a salicylic acid serum can be really effective for targeting breakouts, as it helps to exfoliate, unblock the pores and reduce congestion. Or hyaluronic acid is a great choice if you’re looking to give your skin an extra boost of hydration, since it works like a moisture magnet to keep your complexion plump and refreshed. That said, if your skin tends to be sensitive or reactive, it’s usually best to keep things simple and avoid layering too many actives at once.
3. Retinol
If you haven't used an active ingredient and are going straight from cleansing, you can use a retinol product. And you'll want to - because retinol (or vitamin A) is #amazing and there's not much it can't do. It can increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen and elastin production. It also helps to increase the appearance of firmness, diminish the look of fine lines and wrinkles, improve uneven skin tone and smooth the surface of skin.
“Apply retinol directly to clean skin after cleansing, before your moisturiser. Start with two nights per week, then gradually increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance, aiming for 3-7 nights per week, depending on your skin and its needs,” says Dr Patel. “And always avoid the delicate eye area, unless it states otherwise.”
But if your skin is feeling super sensitive, follow Dr Bal's top tip. “If you want to reduce the effects of retinol, you can do something called ‘buffering’, which is where you apply your moisturiser first before the retinol,” she says.
4. Moisturiser
Seal in your retinol with a moisturiser or dedicated night cream, which will lock in moisture (of course), strengthen the skin barrier and help support your skin’s natural repair process while you sleep. You can also choose a targeted product to help with specific concerns like fine lines, uneven texture or dullness, leaving your skin smoother, plumper and more radiant by morning.
“I would always add a night cream, especially after using a retinol,” says Dr Soni. “A night cream locks in some additional hydration and minimises any dryness from the retinol.”
Anything else to know?
Want to give your nighttime routine a swift upgrade? Dr Bal recommends the Dermalux Flex MD red light therapy device, which is said to be the most powerful portable LED system in the world. “It works to significantly reduce blemishes, pigmentation, crepey skin and fine lines and wrinkles,” she says. “It also boosts healing and collagen production. It's an all-round powerhouse device for next-level beautiful, healthy and glowing skin.”
Or if you want to up the ante, the Dermalux Tri-Wave MD in-clinic treatment is Dermalux's most powerful device so far, and capable of faster, more targeted treatments that's suitable for the face and body.
