Chemical peels explained, from types to benefits and aftercare
It's hard to know what's worse, the word “chemical” or the word “peel”. But if you're seeking a serious anti-ageing punch then nothing compares to chemical peels, especially if you don't simply want to paper over the cracks when it comes to acne scars, hyperpigmentation and dull, deflated skin.
That said there are several types of chemical peel to consider. The first is a gentle at-home peel that is a step up from your gritty exfoliators and involves releasing a slew of familiar skincare acids – including glycolic, salicylic and mandelic – to buff away dead skin cells.
Then there are in-clinic peels that are confined to a dermatologist's office or specialist medi-spa and range from light to deep in concentration. These are higher strength peels that are customised for different skincare concerns – from acne, to glow boosting and a more even skin tone. There are two caveats, though: they will involve an element of downtime and, potentially, pain relief.
Ahead we asked the experts to break down exactly what at-home and professional peels entail so you can decide which resurfacing route you'd like to go down.
What is a chemical peel?
Put simply, a chemical peel involves applying an acid solution to the face to resurface the skin, remove dead skin cells and stimulate the growth of new ones for improved texture and tone.
It's easy to get lost in the jargon so while at-home products contain the word “peel”, they shouldn't be confused with in-clinic chemical peels.
At-home versions are essentially acid exfoliators that contain acids at 6% to 30% concentrations. “Over-the-counter peel products are of course cheaper and milder than clinical strength peels,” says Amar Suchde, medical aesthetic practitioner and founder of AMS Aesthetics. “They will help to exfoliate, unclog pores and brighten the skin tone rather than actually result in peeling. These products are best used as an occasional boost between professional peel treatments and should be applied no more than twice weekly to avoid irritation.”
At-home peels are also excellent for boosting the benefits of other products. By clearing away dead skin cells and other debris, they remove any roadblocks that prevent your skincare actives from penetrating effectively. This is especially true in winter and also with age, when your skin's natural shedding process slows down.
Professional chemical peels, on the other hand, are more intense, deliver more transformative results and will require an element of downtime depending on the strength. “By removing the outer layers of the skin, patients can expect clearer, hydrated skin with a healthy glow,” Dr Hiba Injibar, consultant dermatologist at the Dermasurge Clinic, notes.
How does a chemical peel at home work?
Regular exfoliation rids the skin of dead skin cells and stubborn grime, making it a core tenet of clear, radiant skin. For this reason, at-home peels, used once a week, are a step up from your regular gritty scrub or exfoliating cleanser. They work by gently dissolving the bonds that keep dead skin cells clinging to the top layer of skin. Once cut loose, these cells fall off – hence the peel-like effect.
So it's important to know your skincare acids before scanning the skincare aisle. “The difference between AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) is the level of exfoliation," says Victoria Schofield, Education Executive at Dermalogica. "They have different chemical compositions and therefore work differently on your skin.”
Neither is better than the other but they are better suited to certain skin types. “AHAs such as lactic or glycolic acid increase cell turnover and renewal rates,” says Victoria. In other words, as well as coaxing your skin to produce more collagen, AHAs also offer more intense exfoliation, which makes them more suitable dry or sun-damaged skin.
BHAs, including salicylic acid, are larger molecules that are able to cut through oil, “making them great for oily, acne prone skins and unclogging pores,” she adds.
It goes without saying that you should never attempt to do a professional-grade chemical peel at home. “The results can be dangerous, with a risk of burns, scarring and infection if you have no expertise applying high strength acids,” Dr Injibar adds.
What are the three types of professional chemical peel?
The three major classifications of in-clinic chemical peels are a light or superficial peel, a medium depth peel and a deep chemical peel. Individual clinics will favour a particular type of acid solution and will deploy different concentrations depending on your skin issue.
A 6% concentration of retinol in peels such as ZO Skin Health’s popular 3 Step Peel, is a good jumping off point for those dipping their toes into professional chemical peels for the first time. “It's a mild superficial peel that is also a synergistic blend of lactic acid, which softens the excess skin layers; salicylic acid to reduce oil production and trichloroacetic acid for improving discolouration and fine lines,” says Dr Injibar.
She is also a fan of TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels, which, she says, are especially good for treating scarring and hyperpigmentation. “10% TCA is a mild peel, but it depends on how many layers we put on. The higher the concentration and the more layers, the deeper the peel will be.”
“I feel empowered when people actually listen to me and they actually understand who I am.”
Dr Injibar isn't a fan of high-strength glycolic acid chemical peels, though. "Some clinics offer these peels at up to 50% but glycolic acid is non-uniform and unpredictable,” she adds.
Are chemical peels safe for darker skin tones?
The short answer is ‘yes’. “Traditionally high percentage acids and anything beyond a superficial chemical peel was considered high risk for Fitzpatrick Types IV-VI due to an increased risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” says Dr Zoya Awan, medical director and founder of Secret Aesthetics in Harvey Nichols.
However, chemical peels have come a long way. “I am now able to offer medium depth chemical peels with higher percentages of acids that actually work on a cellular level on all skin types,” she says, noting that VI Peels are her go to on melanated skin as they can treat a variety of skin conditions safely.
Crucially, this includes hyperpigmentation. “There is no point doing superficial peels on someone with deeper pockets of stubborn pigmentation commonly found in darker skin tones as you just won't see effective results,” says Dr Awan.
Who is a good candidate for a chemical peel?
Generally-speaking, if you are keen to improve the look of fine lines, hyperpigmentation and scars, and don't mind the prospect of a procedure that involves downtime, then a professional chemical peel may be right for you.
“But peels aren’t recommended for everyone,” says Amar. “Pregnant or nursing women, as well as anyone with sunburn or acne and those taking Accutane should avoid this treatment as their skin could become very irritated.” Likewise, if you are prone to cold sores you will need to take medication to “block their occurence, so they don't spead over the peeled area,” adds Dr Injibar.
What happens during a chemical peel?
The process is different for at-home and in-clinic peels but they play out like this:
Most peels are applied to the freshly cleansed skin on your face. This ensures that other creams or a fine layer of pollution don't pose a barrier for it to fight through. But do give yourself a good patting down with a towel, as water often neutralises the effects of the chemicals in the peel.
Once applied, it’s important to adhere to whatever instructions are on the label. Some punchier peels, for example, will need to be whipped off in 10 minutes. Afterwards, swipe on a nourishing moisturiser to ensure that the outer layers of the skin are protected and comfortable.
In the two weeks leading up to a professional chemical peel it's important to avoid sun exposure. Dr Injibar also warns against using aggressive skincare ingredients such as retinol, tretinoin and glycolic acid.
On the day, a dermatologist or aesthetic practitioner will take a detailed history of existing skin conditions before applying the chemical peel to clean skin. “The procedure may cause a warm sensation that will last a few minutes, followed by redness or stinging,” Dr Injibar says, adding that a cold jet of air is used to soothe the skin and relieve these symptoms. She also advises bringing a hat or a scarf to protect your face from the elements on the way home.
How long does it take for an in-clinic chemical peel to heal?
The length of downtime and how long it takes your skin to heal depends on the depth of your chemical peel. “A light peel typically has a downtime of three to five days and medium strength peels five to seven days,” says Dr Injibar. Deep peels, however, will involve clearing your diary for 10 days while your skin recovers.
What about aftercare?
No matter what type of peel you opt for, the message about SPF remains the same: apply it liberally before going outside. The rules are even stricter if you've had an in-clinic treatment. “Avoid the sun for at least a week and re-apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen regularly every two to three hours throughout the day,” says Dr Awan. Her personal favourites include the Altruist Dermatologist Face Fluid and Kate Somerville's UnKomplicated Makeup Setting Spray SPF50 for topping up throughout the day.
When it comes to at-home peels facialist Nataliya Robinson, says, "the only sensation which is OK is tingling. Other skin sensations such as burning or itching may indicate inflammation or that the skin has been damaged."
If you experience this, wash the product off your face immediately and apply a cool compress to calm the skin. Nataliya suggests using products with hyaluronic acid for added moisture, and green tea or aloe vera for its soothing properties.
The answer to your skincare prayers.
Post professional chemical peel, expect “flaking, peeling, redness, tenderness or stinging,” says Dr Injibar. “These side effects should subside as the skin heals but you should avoid wearing makeup or picking at the skin or exposing your skin to excessive heat from a sauna” during the first two weeks.
That shiny new layer of skin may also need time to adjust to a skincare routine. “After a chemical peel, we are rapidly exposing new skin that is very vulnerable and sensitive,” explains Dr Awan. “Avoid using any actives in your skincare for at least a week and keep the regime simple with a gentle cleanser like La Roche-Posay Toleraine Dermo-Cleanser followed by a gentle moisturiser like Obagi Hydrate.”
How much does a professional chemical peel cost?
According to Amar, the price of a professional chemical peel starts at £150.
Do you see results after the first chemical peel?
Absolutely. “Results can take between one week to three months to become fully evident, depending on the type of peel used during treatment and the length of downtime,” says Dr Injibar, although some people may require repeat or top-up treatments every six months.
Amar concurs, adding that the results generally last from one to six months.
The best at-home peels to add to cart...
Best gentle peel
Kiehl's Nightly Refining Micro-Peel, £43, Feelunique
An extremely gentle peel that accelerates cell turnover rather than resurfacing through chemical exfoliation. This peel from Kiehl's is a brilliant product for those new to peels or those who are looking to lightly refine skin texture and tone.
Best facial peel for multi-tasking
Tata Harper Resurfacing Mask, £61, Cult Beauty
The ultimate multi-tasking mask: pink clay draws out impurities, beet extract hydrates, white willow exfoliates and aloe vera cools. Oh, and it’s 100% natural.
Best enzyme peel
Susanne Kaufmann Enzyme Exfoliator, £55, Cult Beauty
Ideal for those with sensitive, fragile skin that can often react to acid-heavy pads, enzyme masks like this one draw upon natural acids (in this case, fruit) to gently remove dead skin that dulls the complexion.
Best facial peel with glycolic acid
Caudalie Vinoperfect Glycolic Peel Mask, £21.90, Feelunique
A gentle exfoliant, this glycolic is perfect for a very slight retexturing of the skin and immediate radiance boost. A nice morning peel to ensure glowing skin throughout the day.
Best weekly mask
Erborian Milk & Peel Mask, £32, Space NK
This weekly mask uses sesame milk to gently yet effectively resurface the skin to restore glow, leaving skin feeling and looking refreshed.
Best facial peel with retinol
Alpha H Beauty Sleep Power Peel, £65, Cult Beauty
If you are worried peels might be thinning your skin, this is your out; the mix of glycolic acid dissolves dead cells while the retinol stimulates regeneration of elastin and collagen for a plump, youthful complexion.
