How Gen-Z is fighting perfume's problem with diversity

“Scenting for identity” is driving fragrance inclusivity

“TikTok and Gen Z consumers are now saying ‘no’ to normal and celebrating diversity through personalised scent stories reinforcing their unique cultures and differences,” says Sienna Piccioni, head of WGSN Beauty, where they have coined the phrase “scenting for identity” to explain this new phenomenon. “The emergence of creators on the platform, such as Black Girls Smell Good, Cyra Fabulous, and Vania Mickelle, has forged online communities that act as a safe place for women of colour to learn about fragrance."

This shift has been driven by consumers wanting fragrance to be centred around their identity – "and speak to their cultural preferences and values," Sienna continues. "Consumers now want to feel connected to a fragrance. Hence, brands must build authentic connections through scent profiles, ingredients, focused products and digital storytelling to convince consumers they understand them.”

These communities, alongside platform favourite Black Perfumers, are dedicated to amplifying the diverse voices in fragrance.

“Consumers are much more knowledgeable today, and how they shop will lead the way. Keep supporting the artisan and independent perfumers, and a further shift will happen,” says Maya Njie, founder of Maya Njie Perfumes. “It’s a richer industry for it. You want to see and know that you can support people who look like you and tell a story you can relate to. That wasn’t always the case. But it is now, and we’re out here doing just that.”

Sherion Mullings

Phway adds: “Younger generations care a lot about new voices and aligning with brands that speak to them well. Given the highly multicultural fragrance consumer base, it only seems natural for the industry to reflect its customers.”

How to make meaningful change

The industry must ensure that diversity is reflected at every level to keep up with the diverse fragrance voices purchasing fragrances. “It can become obsolete with a generational shift in global concerns and consumption patterns," says Phway, who believes that “true diversity requires proper systemic change.”

She puts permanent change down to a multi-pronged approach. Firstly, she places importance on perfume accessibility for diverse communities. “Whether offering more ways (especially cost-effective options) to learn about perfumery, having new and diverse communities exposed to perfumery, or simply changing the language around perfumery so it becomes less intimidating and obscure for outsiders,” she says.

Phway also encourages buyers, stockists, press and influencers to make a concentrated effort to buy and discuss fragrances from a broader perspective, “taking diverse representation into account,” she adds. “Investors need to make a conscious effort, too, to consider their investment slates, and actively look out for new companies of diverse backgrounds.”

Diversifying the fragrance field isn’t only down to niche brands that make it into a wearer’s fragrance wardrobe. It's also about the perfumers who work behind the scent. Linda Song, senior perfumer at Givaudan, and the nose behind scents including Tom Ford’s Fougère Platine and Fougère d’Argent, puts her success down to luck. “I was constantly searching for opportunities, and with some good timing, great mentors and advocates along the way, I am fortunate to be able to do what I do every day,” she says.

Linda was discovered in Versailles, France, where she completed her masters in fragrance and joined Givaudan as a chemist in their labs – before having the chance to study at Givaudan’s perfumery school in Paris. When it comes to discussions around diversity, she says, "To the people with a certain amount of influence, it's about a concerted effort to listen and understand. For those asking for change, it's about staying the course. The idea of being in a marathon and not a race comes to mind in this situation. Having representation is paramount for change.”

It’s a transition that Olivia Houghton, lead beauty analyst at The Future Laboratory, says is slowly but surely happening as “emerging chemists recognise the need to deliver services to all communities. R&D in niche beauty communities is expanding, and while skincare takes up the lion’s share in the investment, fragrance is not far behind.”

This is not to say that the perfume space hasn’t opened its doors, but has the dial been pushed far enough? The simple answer is no.

Nevertheless, perfumers are hopeful. “I’m optimistic about the future of fragrance and the direction it’s moving in," says Ezra-Lloyd Jackson, the perfumer behind Deya and scent designer who is also known for his creative and powerful touch in the industry. “Maya Njie has been a trailblazer with her excellent depictions of her Swedish-Gambian ancestry through photography and perfumery,” he notes. "Elle of Black Perfumers constantly champions Black perfumers wanting to learn and build in the space. Dana El Masri utilises her French training through Jazmin Saraï, and Yosh Han is always supporting others behind the scenes.”

So, in the same way that we’re seeing Pattern Beauty, Champo, Fable & Mane transform haircare; Fenty Beauty, Live Tinted, Ami Colé, and Danessa Myricks uplift makeup, and Topicals for skincare, we need to continue diversifying the main acts in fragrance.

That means diverse noses behind viral scents, more niche and independent fragrance houses in retailers, affordable education and career awareness and fragrance communities to uplift and encourage all noses. Change comes from all corners.

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