Perfume

29 best oud perfumes that scream ‘main character energy’

Get ready to turn heads.
oud

Kayali Oudgasm Rose Oud 16 Eau de Parfum Intense 50ml

Kayali Oudgasm Café Oud 19 Eau de Parfum Intense 50ml

What is an oud perfume?

In the world of perfumery, oud fragrances are often described as opulent and luxurious. This is in part due to the fact that the ingredient is extremely rare, and the extraction process is labour-intensive. “Oud essential oil is extracted from Southeast Asian agar trees, which produce a dark, dense, and fragrant resin to protect themselves from a specific mould infection,” explains Mona. It may not sound glamorous, but the result is *chef's kiss*.

“This tree can become infected with a parasite which creates a resin which is then extracted from the tree to make perfume. The scent of oud is distinguished by its rich earthy and animalic notes. In perfume, it is often the base note and exudes a fragrance that amplifies mystery,” Mona adds.

Studies show that fewer than 2% of these wild agar (aquilaria) trees produce this precious resin, and experts claim that the very best oud comes from the oldest trees. This makes oud essential oil one of the most expensive raw materials in the world – hence the nickname, ‘liquid gold’.

Although the raw ingredient is mostly found in Asia, oud perfumes are now a staple in the Western world of fragrance with more and more of us investing in these opulent blends. Of course, ouds are not for the faint-hearted, and they might be a little overpowering to those who prefer a delicate, floral scent, but the beauty of oud fragrances is that they have an undeniably unique ability to elevate any occasion scent.

Why are oud fragrances so expensive?

“Oud fragrances are expensive because natural oud is a very precious and rare ingredient. This is because the oil itself is a rarity in nature,” notes Mona.

The alchemists at Initio Parfum Privés agree, explaining that "This sacred wood sees the light of day in the Assam mountain range in Bangladesh – an isolated, hard-to-access location. It is in this place that a parasitic insect attacks the smooth trunk and light bark of the Aquilaria tree to feed on the sap, causing an infection that manifests as fungi. In response to this attack, the tree produces that dark resin that hardens the wood to protect it."

In other words, this process is incredibly unpredictable. “It’s not a simple case of waiting for the tree to be ten years old for it to secrete this precious resin. Only one tree in a hundred produces this miracle. It’s a sort of botanical lottery. This is one of nature’s priceless riches, the result of an arcane stroke of luck, which is why it’s so exorbitantly priced,” the alchemists at Initio add.

Zara Universal Oud 75ml

Armani Oud Royal Eau de Parfum, 100ml

Jo Malone London Oud & Bergamot Cologne Intense, 100ml

Guerlain Oud Khol EDP, 100ml

What makes oud so special and opulent?

“It can take up to ten days to distill oud wood chips to obtain a high-quality wild, exotic essence. It will have a more or less animal aspect according to the age of the tree. Following this painstaking operation, the essential oil obtained is thick, oily and resiny. But agarwood (the other name for oud) also has a special miracle: each tree develops its own disease and so the resin is unique each time, meaning every fragrance is a unique vintage,” the Initio Alchemists explain further.

Oud can be teamed with lots of different notes in order to create different effects. At Initio, the brand's most famous fragrance Oud for Greatness £305, Selfridges, uses the natural essence of oud wood highlighted by patchouli and musk. It's teamed with lavender for freshness and spicy nutmeg and saffron.

Meanwhile sister fragrance Oud for Happiness £305, Selfridges offers a softer take – boosting the benefits of oud with a breath of freshly-cut grass, energising and uninhibited.

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Mona also adds how eclectic oud scents are. “You can apply it as a perfume, an oil or as bakhoor – which is the process of burning scented wood to scentscape your home or use on your clothing or hair as way to help intensify the fragrance. I have so much love for these traditions and I wanted to add my own twist to it and share them with the world through the Oudgasm collection.”

Why do ouds last longer than other scents?

According to the Initio alchemists, “this addictive, ancient essence has a rare complexity. It has woody, smoky, leather, resin, animal and even fruity aspects. This extreme richness explains why a perfume containing a substantial quantity of oud lasts on the skin and clothes for so long.”

Mona also adds that it’s due to the intensity of the oud note itself. “On its own, a little can go a very long way, especially if combined with the oud oils and the bakhoor.”

Can you layer ouds with other scent families?

“Oud wood is like a blank canvas, where other colours from the perfumer’s palette can be painted. When it comes to layering, a composition that’s rich in oud such as our Oud for Greatness £305, Harrods, mixed with a sweet and rich vanilla fragrance or creamy sandalwood, like our Rehab Extrait de Parfum, £240, Selfridges, work,” the Initio alchemists tell us.

Mona Kattan is a master of layering herself: “Absolutely, in fact I highly recommend it! Oud is quite a unique scent and acts as a beautiful base if you want to intensify your fragrance experience – whether you pair it with something fruity, smoky, sweet, woody, floral – it truly complements most fragrance families.” Mona loves layering Kayali's cult-fav Vanilla 28 EDP, £73, Cult Beauty with their Kayali Oudgasm Café Oud 19, £119, Cult Beauty to create a vanilla latte scent that is perfect for the cooler months.

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Diptyque Oud Palao Eau de Parfum, 75ml

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Dior Oud Ispahan, 125ml

Juliette has a Gun Another Oud Eau de Parfum Spray, 100ml

Who are oud perfumes suitable for?

Although ouds may seem a little intimidating, Mona assures us that ouds are suitable for everyone. “It’s just finding the right oud fragrance that speaks to your heart and nose,” she says. “Its ability to be layered with sweeter or woodier scents makes it incredibly versatile. Depending on your scent palette, you might want to go for a lighter, less concentrated version of the scent as some can find it overwhelming.”

The Initio alchemists think that ouds are great option for people who are most attracted to powerful scents. “Oud's mixed sensuality speaks to all those who like powerful, animal fragrances, the sort of scent that we feel as much as we smell, fragrances that bring us back to our inner nature,” they say.

What should you be looking for when shopping for an oud scent online?

“The origin of the essence is a determining factor, along with its variety. Assam oud is undoubtedly the best quality. This is the one we use in our perfumes. A little tip: pay attention to a designation called ‘oud accord’, which means that it’s not strictly-speaking an oud wood essence but a substitution made up of cedar, sandalwood, cypriol, patchouli and certain synthetic molecules,” the Initio alchemists tell us.

Mona adds: “Oud is often used as a base note, but the intensity varies a lot depending on the fragrance. Find what kind of scent suits you best, and what pairing you enjoy and just have fun! Fragrances have no rules, and this journey into scent is a very personal one to find out what you enjoy most.”

If you’re looking to create a mini Harrods perfumery in your beauty cabinet but don’t know where to start, we've got you. Here are our top 30 picks of the best ouds on the market right now, to get you started. You’re very welcome.

For more from Glamour UK Beauty Writer Shei Mamona, follow her on Instagram @sheimamona.