On a mission to reignite my love for reading (and hit my Goodreads target), I spent last summer galivanting around literary festivals, including Ireland's famous Dalkey Book Festival, which has long been on my bucket list.
With James Joyce's Ulysses taking up plenty of hand luggage space, I departed from Heathrow to Dublin with the very best of intellectual intentions. And look, if you're going to hunker down with the 736-page epic, you may as well do so in the centre of Dublin, ideally within striking distance of the novel's most famous locations – including Grafton Street, the National Library of Ireland and the Sandymount Strand.
The fact that The Westbury – a five-star boutique hotel – happens to be one of the most luxurious spots in the city centre? Well, that doesn't hurt one bit. It's also one of eight prestigious hotels owned by The Doyle Collection, which is a headline sponsor of the internationally renowned Dalkey and Borris Literary festivals. If, like me, you're hankering after a bit of culture, this must surely be the place.
First impressions
An easy 40-minute car journey from Dublin airport (and only slightly longer via bus), the entrance to the hotel is nestled between The Westbury Shopping Mall – more on that later – and Balfes Bar & Brasserie – again, more on that later.
The Westbury's exterior is a slick black-and-gold affair, with an art-deco theme that runs throughout the six-story building. The upper deck of the lobby is adorned with perfectly landscaped greenery, while the entrance itself is between two large planters brimming with flowering leaves – an encouraging sign of interiors to come.
A concierge swiftly dealt with my luggage – Ulysses and all – before directing me up the steps (a ramp is also available), through the revolving door, and into an achingly stylish hotel lobby. The aesthetic touches – including plenty of flowers, gold ornaments, and artwork – never infringe on the expansive, liberating feel of the space.
Ascend the double grand staircase (a lift is available – and what a lift it is…), and you'll be greeted with a magnificent floral display, changed weekly to ensure maximum freshness and vibrancy, which adorns John Lavery's 1912 oil painting of Miss Haslam; her hands, encouragingly, curled around a book.
After checking in and chatting with the sociable, knowledgeable staff at the reception desk, it was time to head for my room, located on the fourth floor. The hotel's lift is small, but boy, does it have character. If you're in the market for a selfie, the lift contains at least 18 separate mirrors panelled on the polished wood walls. And if you need to catch your breath? There's a sofa… in the lift. Who says luxury and novelty can't go hand in hand?
The room
I set up camp in one of The Westbury's front-facing classic rooms, complete with a king-size bed, lavish cream and taupe furnishings, and a view of Balfe Street.
On entering my room (approx 270 sq ft / 25 sq m), I was instantly impressed by the enormous (yet elegant) wall-length mirrors. Again, lots of selfie potential. Add in an abundance of natural light, high ceilings and Blanc d’Ivoire bedding, and I was all set to enjoy the most luxurious reading environment, well, ever.
Other amenities include a 55’’ HD LED TV, a Nespresso coffee machine, complimentary WiFi, and a dedicated workspace.
The bathroom was also not to be sniffed at. And when I say “not to be sniffed at”, I mean I'd happily live in it for the rest of my life – and that's only a slight exaggeration. We're talking marble decor, underfloor heating, Malin + Goetz products, and a bathtub that would happily fit two (if you're into that sort of thing).
If you fancy an added splash of luxury, you may be interested to know that 12 brand-new Signature Suites on the 5th and 6th floors of the hotel are now available to book after an extensive refurbishment. The piece de resistance is the P.V Doyle Suite, named after the hotel's founder, which features a spacious master bedroom, living room and dining area (as well as a fitness and wellbeing space).
I also managed to sneak a peek at one of the new Signature Suites (pictured below), which – at a more attainable price point – was yet another display of the understated decadence that I'd already become accustomed to at The Westbury.
For more details about The Westbury's accessibility credentials, click here.
Food and drink
As all bookworms will tell you, to truly relish a good book, you need a plentiful supply of snacks. Happily, the hotel delivered on each frontier.
On arrival, I popped down to Balfes Bar & Brasserie, the hotel's buzzing New York-style eatery (and one of four dining outlets), to get a feel for the atmosphere. And something to eat, obviously. It's clear that Balfes is the go-to spot for celebratory meals (think fancy post-graduation lunches), and glamorous pre-night-out dinners – not to mention it's an ideal spot for people-watching.
As it was still early afternoon when I arrived, I opted for a glass of non-alcoholic wine: the Leitz Eins Zwei Zero, which was icy-cold when served (and swiftly knocked back). For starters, I had the freshest oysters and caviar I've ever tasted – although admittedly, this is hardly something I do frequently – followed by a superfood salad packed with quinoa, baby spinach, golden beetroot, pomegranate, feta, and extra avocado.
Later that evening, at a more acceptable drinking hour, I headed over to the Sidecar cocktail bar, an intriguing 1930s-style bolthole with erotic (yes, really) mood lighting, a bespoke Martini Trolley, and a truly glorious cocktail menu inspired by the illustrations of Anne Harriet Fish's 1920 book, High Society, which she wrote with author and satirist Dorothy Parker. While I thoroughly enjoyed my cocktail – a Sidecar, naturally – my personal highlight was the quotes interwoven through the menu, such as: “Nothing is as obnoxious as other people's luck (F. Scott Fitzgerald)” and, my favourite: “I require three things in a man: he must be handsome, ruthless, and stupid (Dorothy Parker)” – any suitors?
Next up, I headed to WILDE for dinner. The restaurant, lauded for its fresh Irish produce and rated as Dublin's No.1 restaurant on Tripadvisor, has a unique rooftop feel, without any of the chill. Before we head to the food, it's worth noting that the wine list is rather long. And with good reason – it's selected by the hotel's award-winning head sommelier. Good to know.
The phone definitely eats first at WILDE – understandably so. The combination of fresh ingredients, impeccable presentation and stylish crockery demands a slot on any Insta grid. I opted for the cauliflower risotto, served with toasted chestnuts and truffle essence, and was truly impressed by the rich flavours, which paired perfectly with a glass of Riesling Trocken GG Juffer.
If you prefer fine dining from the comfort of your suite – as I did on the last night of my stay – the room service menu is an ideal treat. While there's a classic clubhouse sandwich on offer, I went for the grilled Mediterranean vegetables, hummus, St Tola goat's cheese, and grilled focaccia.
What to do
If you fancy exploring the city during your stay at The Westbury, there are plenty of delightful experiences close by, including the following:
The Westbury Shopping Mall: Nestled in the heart of Dublin's Creative Quarter (not to mention metres away from the hotel's lobby), you'll find a collection of Ireland's most distinguished boutiques: from Stable of Ireland, where the brand's signature Herringbone scarves take six weeks to complete on looms at Donegal Yarns on the west coast, to Parfumarija, an apothecary-style experience with an expertly-curated collection of niche perfumes.
Grafton Street: Another shopping experience on The Westbury's doorstep – where you can revel in the best culture, food and drink, and retail therapy that Dublin has to offer. I recommend making a beeline for Brown Thomas, Ireland's leading designer fashion store, before stopping for a luxe sugar rush at Butler's Chocolates and, finally, paying a visit to the statue of Molly Malone, who (when she's not haunting the city streets) can be found at the end of Grafton Street, at the corner of Suffolk Street.
National Museum of Ireland: Known colloquially as the ‘Dead Zoo’, this museum is a powerful testament to the natural world – Irish deer skeletons and all. The Irish Fauna exhibition is immensely popular, not to mention free to enter. A great idea, particularly if you've got kids to entertain.
Kehoes: What's a trip to Dublin without visiting one of the city's traditional pubs? Kehoes is a true heritage pub, which has been preserved in its original decor – from the mahogany wood bar to the serving hatch and buzzer – for 100 years. And it's within easy walking distance (about two minutes) of The Westbury.
Christmas at The Westbury: I may have visited the Westbury in the summer, but it would be remiss of me not to highlight the hotel's festive offerings. Guests who visit at this time of year can experience the iconic Christmas Tree at the top of the stairs, enjoy a ‘Festive Afternoon Tea’, and peruse The Westbury Christmas Shop.
My overall verdict
Subtle splendour – or ‘quiet luxury’ for the Sophia Richies of the world – is incorporated into every fibre of The Westbury, from the art-deco interiors to the numerous fine dining (and drinking) experiences. And while I didn't quite manage to finish Ulysses, at least I've got an excuse to check in again soon.
You can book The Westbury Dublin at booking.com, lastminute.com and hotels.com. Find them at: Balfe Street, Dublin 2 D02 CH66.
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For more from Glamour UK's Lucy Morgan, follow her on Instagram @lucyalexxandra.
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