I was 18 when I first visited Amsterdam: inter-railing with a then-boyfriend, nervous and far too innocent for the chaos of the city's marujana-littered red light district. I wasn’t much of a wild child. To a certain extent, my trip put me off – or, rather, left me satisfied that I had completed the city for at *least* a decade. And reports of over-tourism over the past few years only worked to cement my mindset.
If I was going to be pulled back prematurely – and allow my opinion of the city to be completely transformed – it needed to be for something special. And the opening of The Hoxton’s second property in the city most certainly qualified.
For context, it’s the Ennismore-owned group that are behind some of my most-adored spots in my home city of London. Namely, my local and beloved Shepherd’s Bush Hoxton – complete with a Thai-American diner by the founder of LA hotspot NIGHT + MARKET – as well as the Seabird-topped Hoxton Southwark and the OG, go-to-get-work-done Hoxton Shoreditch lobby. Their weekend brunch slaps. My sister will tell you: I'll wax lyrical about The Hoxton to anyone who will listen, and any new opening has me on very high alert.
The building
The Hoxton group’s first Amsterdam hotel, aptly named The Hoxton Amsterdam, is located right on the Herengracht canal, and back in 2015, was the brand's first opening outside of London. Fast forward nine (!) years, and the epic Hoxton Lloyd Amsterdam – their second Dutch opening which sits in the buzzy, up-and-coming Eastern Docklands neighbourhood – bypasses everything its older sister sits in the heart of.
I arrived in Amsterdam, late in September, via Eurostar. (Side note: I could not believe how fuss-free and relaxing my journey from St Pancras International to Amsterdam Centraal Station was. Sipping Champagne while you pass through Brussels and Rotterdam is totally the vibe). I had overpacked – in a heavy weekend bag, not an easy-to-wheel carry-on suitcase – and over-layered for the pleasingly warm weather. So, being able to hop on a six minute tram from directly outside of the station entrance, to nearby Rietlandpark, was embraced.
Upon first arrival (and second, and third), the Hoxton Lloyd building – an old neighbourhood landmark – is nothing short of striking. Not least because of its sheer height and the large-scale, floral mural created by leading graffiti artist Toscanabanana which is splashed down its side.
Cast your mind back to sometime circa 1920, when it was built by the Royal Dutch Lloyd Shipping Company, and you'd have been able to step inside to book yourself a one-way ticket to Rio de Janeiro, Las Palmas or another Southern American destination altogether more balmy than The Netherlands. Then, in 2004 you'd have been able to visit the Lloyd building during its first life as a hotel – the Lloyd Hotel – where each bedroom was graded between one and five stars. Now, the Hoxton group have breathed fresh, vibrant and contemporary new life into it, honouring the building's heritage while embracing the youthful and creative energy of the waterside district it sits in. More on that later.
The design
First, let's talk design, because my journey from porch-to-lobby-to-bedroom had me in awe of the work that local firm Nicemakers have done to shape the interior design of the space. Take the entrance hall, for example. Clad in statement mustard yellow armchairs and 1950s side tables, all of the original grey brickwork is still in-tact – as are the grey and terracotta floor tiles.
We passed through heavy, mystery-inducing curtains into a corridor which lead us to the check-in desk – where walls are filled with all-Dutch artwork by new, established and rediscovered artists (installed by neighbouring gallery Bisou). The cosy-yet-cool mustard and burnt-orange colour scheme carried through to the lobby, where warm lighting created a welcoming ambience. Coffee tables were topped with chess boards, cushions were covered in woollen Moquette-inspired fabrics and industrial-style side boards were stacked with candles, t-shirts and other goods-to-buy crafted by local artisan makers.
The bedrooms
A very lovely member of the front-of-house team led me to the second floor and along an illuminated, carpeted corridor, where my spacious double bedroom was located. Up its own private spiral staircase, no less. One of 136 rooms, my space overlooked the sun-drenched, south-facing terrace – a perfect summer hangout – yet it was wonderfully quiet. Every corner had been considered: I loved the mosaic rainfall shower, complete with blank toiletries, and I loved the fact that a Roberts radio was playing the sounds of a local station from the moment I stepped inside.
There was a writing desk, not that I spent too much time working, and a small dining table topped with lemon and raspberry cake – plus tea, coffee, and cardboard water cartons. The entire property is plastic-free.
If you're after something a little more ~special~, I was lucky enough to peak inside a handful of concept rooms which are weeks away from being finished – and divine. There's the Tower Room, which sits inside the building's tower and has 360 degree views of the city from the top of a spiral staircase, as well as the Tune Room for music enthusiasts, which has two floors, a grand piano and the most impressive mirror you'll have ever seen.
Travelling with friends? Check out The Gather, which has one XXXXL large bed to share with friends, bean bags, and open wardrobe and a giant TV. So. Cool. Oh, and if you're travelling with kids, the epic Biggy Bunk Up rooms feature bunk beds for the kids – as well as one Queen bed frame for the grown-ups.
Food & drink
Characteristically, I was pretty hungry by the time I had completed my tour. Wonderful, then, that two of my new-found favourite food and drink spots in the city were located just downstairs. First, a visit to Barbue, the hotels' cocktail bar which is a blending pot of European and South American cultures – again paying homage to the building's history. Need proof? The old, traditional ticket office where local travellers would buy their tickets to start new lives in South America is still in tact next to the bar's entrance, fully preserved in its original state – and a hot talking point for the knowledgeable bar staff who work there.
The drinks on the menu pay homepage to the building's rich heritage, too: every cocktail is Argentinian-inspired (the Cha Cha Cha was my drink of choice and totally delicious), all served on scalloped pink and red coasters splashed in the bar's branding. And, of course, the Argentine regional drink Fernet Branca, imported from South America.
As for the space? With high ceilings, a dazzling horseshoe bar, the same earthy colour scheme which runs throughout the rest of the property, canal views and very comfy seating, you'd struggle to find a more relaxing spot for a pre-dinner drink. It really is something special.
After an hour of zen, we ventured through to the light and airy Breman Brasserie, my favourite space in the hotel and the centrepiece of the building. Sitting right in its heart, it boasts huge windows which flood the space with light, lemon yellow walls, beautiful apple green pom-pom-lined light fittings and a striking, bar-to-ceiling mural which falls behind the raw bar. (You can sit there with up to six other guests and watch as the chef prepare dishes right in front of you).
As with Barbue, Breman takes inspiration from turn-of-the-century European and South American cuisine – and it's open all day from breakfast through to dinner. Breakfast had been a light and (mostly) healthy affair (I switched between Parmesan and mushrooms on toast which were to die for, and the lightest, fluffiest waffles ever served with fresh cream and berries). So, as the evening drew in, I was looking forward to something hearty.
I started sharing a selection of small plates and nibbles – including chicken Caesar salad, tuna ceviche and my all-time-favourite food of burrata – before choosing the grilled salmon (with a side of chips, obvs). Two friends in my group went for the deconstructed fish pie, which induced serious food envy despite it looking a little rich – and the double cheeseburger with American cheese and sauerkraut also went down a treat. Other highlights? Steak, and the Veal schnitzel with Tonnato sauce – as well as the mountain of bagels that are served for brunch over the weekend.
Instagram content
Things to do
When you're sufficiently full, you've got a few choices – as per the Hoxton Mini Press guide to Amsterdam which is left in every room. My recommendations? On day one of your stay, head straight down to the waterfront as you leave the hotel and turn right, stopping for coffee at the new opening which shares its space with CrossFit Vastberaden and a barber. Random. Also cool.
From there, head along Czaar Peterstraat – a street where rent is lower to encourage the opening of charming and independent hairdressers, coffee houses, art galleries, gift shops and food joints. It's home to a female-owned art, design and illustration studio called Pansy which runs regular workshops in clay and painting. The founder, Alina Tang, is lovely, and if you're in town at the right time, you should hang around for one of her workshops in collaboration with neighbouring Cocorico. You'll spend two hours sipping on the merchant's insanely good orange wine, and painting your very own wine label. It's meditative and energising in equal measure.
Instagram content
From the end of Czaar Peterstraat, your walk to the city centre – via the De Gooyer Molen windmill and various parks – should only take around 40 minutes. It's an easy, flat walk which takes you along the side of the Amstel canal. And not seeing the centre of the city during your stay could be considered a crime.
On day two, though, stay well away. Take one of The Hoxton's free bikes (they're very on-brand in blue and orange), and head to the North of the city. It's lesser-known by tourists – the reason for the majority of its charm – and much of the reason I decided that I could really imagine myself living in Amsterdam. You can head over the graffiti bridge to Sportheldenbuurt, stop for a coffee at Espressofabriek (the pastries are great) and loop back through the quaint Amsterdam-Noord to complete your trip at KANIS. With a ginger tea, and cheese and kimchi toastie.
If you're more of a runner, Hox has teamed up with renowned, black-owned streetwear brand Patta to offer monthly group running clubs, as well as bespoke running maps for guests looking to pound the streets in their own time. A really nice touch.
My verdict
It's a total treat to be able to immerse yourself in the neighbourhood which The Hoxton Lloyd Amsterdam is so inspired by, which acts as a nice segway to my parting statement. A stay here is totally worth it, in my opinion, made so much more special by the fact that the staff have gone the extra mile to forge long-lasting relationships with the people and places that surround it.
In the expansive public spaces at The Hoxton Lloyd, you'll be living alongside excited local people and travellers who prefer to escape the bustle of the city. It's perfect for returning Amsterdam tourists who want to see the city with a fresh pair of eyes, and the perfect chance to explore the Eastern Docklands neighbourhood before everyone else catches on. If you add only one weekend break to your list in 2024, make it this one.
You can book The Hoxton Lloyd Amsterdam at booking.com, lastminute.com and hotels.com. Find them at: The Hoxton, Lloyd Amsterdam, Oostelijke Handelskade 341019 BN Amsterdam.
After more hotel reviews? Book the best hotels in Mallorca, the best hotels in Paris, the best hotels in Barbados and the best Amalfi Coast hotels. For more from GLAMOUR's Senior European Commerce Editor Sophie Cockett, follow her on Instagram @sophiecockettx.
