It's no news that the top end of the fashion industry is – and has historically been – dominated by men. In a February 2025 edition of their newsletter, 1Granary reported on this massive gender gap, calculating that only 12% of creative directors at the biggest fashion houses are women. Since then, there has been some inklings of change, with British designer Grace Wales Bonner being appointed at the helm of menswear at Hèrmes and Meryll Rogge taking the reigns at Marni. However, the overarching theme remains – Paris and Milan Fashion Week are led by major brands, most of which have male creative directors. Meanwhile, London continues to pave its own way with women at the forefront.
Since joining the British Fashion Council as the CEO last April, Laura Weir has implemented some major changes in the way LFW works, all with the goal of supporting emerging creatives and keeping the spotlight on London's community. Weir dropped participation fees for designers, which showed immediate impact as the number of brands on the schedule for SS26 went up by 18%. And although the presence of major luxury brands has dwindled down over the years, leaving Burberry as the city's biggest name, it's the growing presence of international emerging fashion designers that highlights the importance of this event.
Whether you're sitting front row or scrolling updates on your sofa.
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But designers aren't the only creatives who make London Fashion Week such a highlight of the global fashion calendar. Make-up artists, hair stylists, nail artists and fashion stylists all contribute to that final image or video that makes the rounds online – and their artistry is integral to London's shows being perceived as the bold, unapologetic younger sibling of what's going on in other fashion capitals.
Ahead of the upcoming edition of London Fashion Week, which is taking place across the British capital February 19th-23rd, we wanted to spotlight nine women in creative roles that are key to the city's fashion and beauty communities. From personal reflections and tips on creativity to tasters of what we can expect on the catwalk for autumn/winter 2026, they share personal stories that help illuminate the importance of connections and the female power that unravels at London's biggest fashion event.
Karoline Vitto
As one of the trailblazers of London's scene and the industry in general, Karoline Vitto has been actively promoting size inclusivity with her collections by creating pieces in a size range from XS to 3XL. Feminine and revealing, her clothes cherish women's bodies as sculptural frames that celebrate every curve. Brazilian-born Vitto will show her new, AW26 collection on Saturday, February 21st, at 11am.
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Is there a physical activity that helps motivate you while making the collection?
Pre-show days can get quite long and intense so listening to a high energy playlist while working helps motivate me… and that may lead to some dancing while cutting or sewing.
Who would you want to see in the front row at your upcoming show?
I am obsessed with Rama Duwaji at the moment and I would love for her to be at the front row wearing KV.
Any beauty rituals before making the final bow at the catwalk?
I normally arrive at the venue with no makeup on, and when the makeup artists are done with the models’ makeup, I ask my MUA to quickly give me a 5-min glow. For hair, it’s either my natural hair down or a slick back bun.
If your AW26 collection could be the wardrobe in an existing film, which one would you choose?
I would love to see some of these pieces in a remake of an action film like La Femme Nikita, but this time directed by a woman. We have that very 1990s tension of men’s tailoring, and sexy, stripped-back dresses, revealing in a way that is a bit unusual. Looking sultry but also a bit daunting, which I think would be a great fit.
Favourite London Fashion Week moment from the past?
I love how we remade an entire dress in just under four hours for SS23, patterns and everything. Basically, the day before the show because we decided to allocate one model’s look to another, and the sizes were different. We only had four hours, the floor to cut, one free machine and all the hope in the world. Thankfully, it all worked out in the end and it was the most shared and photographed look of the season. Sometimes, it’s that very final push that gives us the best results.
Ronan Mckenzie of Selasi
More than just a designer, Ronan Mckenzie is a multidisciplinary creative whose practice includes film, photography, printed matter and fashion. Her sculptural take on womenswear will be on display at her first ever on-schedule London Fashion Week show, which is taking place at 10am on Saturday, February 21st.
Is there a physical activity that helps motivate you while making the collection?
I’ve wanted to do more yoga for the longest time but never prioritised it. However, since January 1st, I’ve been doing yoga every day and it definitely helps with decompressing and releasing any tensions that can hinder the creative process. Also dancing, I’m always dancing in my studio.
Please summarise your upcoming, AW26 collection in 3 words.
Experimental, brave, playful.
If your upcoming collection was the wardrobe of a TV show or a film, what would it be?
I’m going to make one up. The protagonist is played by Teyana Taylor, who is co-starring against Viola Davis and Naomi Ackie. Then Queen Latifah, Mary J. Blige and my mum all make a cameo. It’s directed by Alain Gomis, and at the screenings, you get tiny bitesize raspberry pavlovas.
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Who would you want to see in the front row at your upcoming show?
My partner’s grandma Jackie passed away in December, she was one of my biggest fans. Most of the thread I’ve used in this new collection is from one of her sewing kits, I wish she could see the show.
Who is another woman that is essential to building your vision for London Fashion Week?
My sweet angel Bibi Abdulkadir, the first person I ever dressed in one of my pieces. She is still such an important friend and muse for me.
Anna Cofone
As the hair-stylists behind some of Lana Del Rey's most iconic looks as well as the collaborator of British brands like Erdem and Sinéad O’Dwyer, Anna Cofone has been been creating her own vision of beauty for years. She has also founded the charity Hair & Care, which aims to make the industry more accessible for blind and low vision women. For this upcoming, AW26 season, Cofone is working with Philips on making Chet Lo’s show (6pm, Saturday, February 21st) accessible to blind and low vision guests with the help of their noise-cancelling headphones.
What’s your commute of choice to the studio and what is blasting in your headphones?
I try to walk everywhere! It gives me a chance to clear my head, listening to a podcast or a favourite album, Born To Die. 15 years on and it still gets me!
Please summarise the perfect hair for AW26 in 3 words.
Textural graphic shapes!
What’s the first thing you do once a show you worked on is over?
Clean! It’s the only way I can decompress. I have to stay active until I literally can’t stand up anymore.
If it could be anyone – dead or alive – who would you want to have in your hair chair?
Sophia Loren.
What is your signature hair look?
I think it has to be the 1960s inspired shapes I’ve created for Lana Del Rey.
Pauline Dujancourt
French-born but London-based, Pauline Dujancourt is known for her eternally romantic approach to womenswear that focuses on knitting and crochet, but crafted in a way that looks totally unexpected. She is part of the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN initiative, and her AW26 show will take place on Sunday, February 22nd, at 11am.
What’s something you always have on you?
I either have a hook or some knitting needles with me, in case I get trapped somewhere and I don't want to wait doing nothing. And then the second thing is a red lipstick – I always have it on me.
What’s your signature shade of red lipstick?
I used to have a few different ones and then when I did the LVMH Prize, one really cute lady gifted me one on the day – it’s from Dior and it's number 666. So, the devil colour…
What’s on your playlist in the studio?
It drives the team in the studio a bit mad because I always play the same things but it’s usually Japanese Breakfast, Billy Eilish, the Marías and Not for Radio.
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If your upcoming, AW26 collection could be the wardrobe of a film or TV show, which one would it be?
Romeo + Juliet by Baz Luhrmann, something dramatic like that.
What’s your ritual when it comes to show day?
Last season, our whole team had a little bird brooch in memory of my friend that we were honouring through the collection. The show before, I had a little bracelet that reminded me of someone I really love. So I would say it’s always a some sort of charm that I have on me – it could b seen or not, but I know it's there.
Tyler Phoenix
Making sure that statement looks extend right to the nail, Tyler Phoenix is one of those artists whose work pushes boundaries of their field. One of the best examples of her signature approach was the lace mani at the Dipetsa show for AW25, where Phoenix created an illusion of lace frills floating around the nail bed. This season, she is confirmed to work on two shows, and we're waiting with baited breath to see what she's got in store next.
What’s one thing you never leave your home without?
I never leave the house without lip balm. My current favourites are the Eadem Softening Lip Balm and the YVL Cosmetics Halo Balm. I also carry my journal everywhere — my best friend made it for me, so it stays with me religiously.
What’s your perfect work break activity?
Having a nap.
Please summarise the perfect nail look for AW26 in three words.
Neutral, mix-and-match, intentional.
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If it could be anyone — dead or alive — who would you want to give a mani makeover?
Marci Penn and her aunt, Lori Hirshleifer. Both are absolute icons.
Any beauty or fashion rituals before getting backstage? Any personal signature looks?
Comfort is number one. An eye mask in the Uber on the way to the show and comfortable shoes are essential. Backstage can be very hectic, with lots of movement between hair and makeup, so my mindset is always: get in, get out.
Anna Jewsbury of Completedworks
It's not often that a jewellery presentation garners as much attention as some of the fashion brands', but Completedworks' Anna Jewsbury knows the trick and it's all about theatricality. Now a mainstay of London Fashion Week's schedule, her past presentations have featured icons like Joanna Lumley (AW24) and Debi Mazar (AW25). For this season, she has announced a partnership with Asics, which perfectly combines her delicate jewellery and the sportswear brands' classic runners. To say we're excited would be an understatement – her AW26 show will take place at 12pm on Saturday, February 21st.
Favourite London Fashion Week moment of the past?
Working with Joanna Lumley for our first proper show [for AW24] is probably up there – one of those moments where you have to pause and think, how is this my job?
What’s your perfect work break activity?
I love slipping into Lisson Gallery during the day. Even a few minutes with a work of art feels like a reset - it shifts your mind in the most subtle way.
If it could be anyone – dead or alive – who would you want to see in the front row at your upcoming show?
David Lynch.
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Please summarise your upcoming, AW26 collection in 3 words.
Romantic, detailed, unfamiliar.
What are your beauty/fashion rituals before getting backstage?
Backstage is always pretty chaotic – like being thrown into a very glamorous washing machine. So I tend to have a few tiny rituals beforehand, mostly to convince myself I’m calm. I always make a bit of time and space to meditate, even if it’s just five minutes of trying to feel grounded before everything kicks off. Clothing-wise, I have a sort of uniform planned out during fashion week so I don’t waste brain power thinking about it. And then I’ll throw on lots of ear cuffs, mismatching jewellery and Completedworks’ The Bows bag which is a perfect size for all the essentials but small enough to run around with a crossbody all day.
Aoife Cullen
A TikTok tastemaker and a bold proponent of maximalist beauty, Aoife Cullen's work will quickly persuade you into thinking neon shadows and baby blue lips make a fab everyday look. She has already made waves on London Fashion Week catwalks, particularly with her statement cake sprinkles lip that accompanied Sinead Gorey's nostalgic SS25 show. For this upcoming season, Cullen is excited to emulate ‘dark and sexy glamour’ for Myat, whose show will take place on Saturday, February 21st, at 7pm.
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What’s one thing you never leave your home without?
A hairbrush and black eyeliner. The first thing I do when I arrive anywhere is head straight to the bathroom to brush my hair and touch up my waterline. It’s like a tiny reset button.
What’s your commute of choice to the office/studio, and what’s blasting in your headphones?
I walk absolutely everywhere. I love London, and I really treasure that alone time before I have to be “on.” Since November, I’ve basically only been listening to Rosalía’s Lux. If it’s not that, it’s a YouTube video, usually something extremely niche about Victorian trends or some strange historical phenomena. And if I’m feeling introspective, Fashion Neurosis by Bella Freud.
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Please summarise the perfect AW26 makeup look for AW26 in three words.
Somber. Imperfect. Esoteric.
What's a fun London Fashion Week memory you have?
Going into the same fancy-dress shop every day for a week to buy black contact lenses for a show. On the last visit, the man behind the counter said, “I have to ask, are you on the run or something?” When I explained my job and the looks for the show, he said: “way less interesting.”
If it could be anyone — dead or alive — who would you want to have in your makeup chair?
Dolly Parton is my ultimate beauty icon. I adore her unapologetic love of glamour. She was always huge in Ireland, so I remember seeing her as a child and being totally mesmerised by her look. I’d have so much fun doing her makeup, she isn’t afraid to “overdo it,” in her words. She radiates fun and confidence, which feels very aligned with my world.
Hila Karmand
When it comes to iconic beauty looks, Hila Karmand knows it all. She has worked on some major shows (Valentino, Louis Vuitton) and has built a relationship with Naomi Campbell as her go-to MUA over the years. In London, she is a close collaborator of British-Yemeni designer Kazna Asker, as Karmand effortlessly brings cultural heritage from the clothes and into the make-up. Asker's new presentation will take place on Monday, February 23rd, from 16.30 to 18.30.
Is there a physical activity that helps get you in a creative mood?
For the last ten years, I was one of my father’s primary carers, and that role was very physical, leaving little space for anything else. Much of my creativity came from caring for him and sitting together, talking about old Afghanistan and the places he travelled. Now I have the time, I’m still figuring out what movement looks like for me — but inspiration continues to come through memory, observation, and emotion.
Please summarise the perfect makeup look for AW26 in 3 words.
Big statement, colourful, individual. These three words are shaping the show I’m designing the makeup for this February.
What’s the first thing you do once a show you worked on is over?
I always congratulate the designer and thank them for trusting me with their vision and letting me into their space. But most importantly, I thank my team — individually. I believe in collective success… anything I achieve is because of the people beside me.
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Who would you want to have in your makeup chair?
It would be Yasmeen Ghauri. She’s one of the most beautiful women to ever walk a runway, and she truly owned that era. At a time when representation was rare, she was one of the only South Asian models on the runway, and seeing someone from your own community reflected in fashion like that is incredibly powerful. Her paternal roots in Afghanistan add another layer of meaning — it feels like representation coming full circle.
Any beauty or fashion rituals before getting backstage?
Good skin prep is everything — for me and my clients. I swear by the 111SKIN Black Diamond Mask, Huda Beauty powder for longevity, and Kryolan fixing spray, which has been in my kit since day one. My signature look is a small winged liner with dots in the waterline, and fashion-wise it’s always all black, comfy, and practical.
Clara Chu
One of this season's most exciting London Fashion Week's debuts, Clara Chu is a Hong Kong-born, London-based accessories designer who engineers purses out of some pretty wild materials. Her 2026 vision of pop art reimagines old CDs, household and cleaning items as sculptural – but totally functional – statement handbags. Her first on-schedule presentation will take place on Friday, February 20th, from 11:30 to 13:30.
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What’s your perfect work break activity?
Taking a long bath or making kimchi
Please summarise your upcoming AW26 collection in three words.
Electric. Bizarre. Fun.
If your upcoming collection could be in a sequel to a film, which one would it be?
They should make a sequel to the film Symbol by Hitoshi Matsumoto and have the bags in it.
Who would you want on the guestlist for your first presentation?
Pandemonia.
What are you most excited for when it comes to your London Fashion Week debut?
Just for the day itself to feel like a big party for the brand and celebrating everyone who’s been involved, next to all my friends and family.
What’s the first thing you’ll do once your presentation is over?
Have a drink then head straight to a birthday, keep the day going.
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