How to apply cuticle oil, according to a pro nail artist

The first step to understanding how to apply cuticle oil correctly is understanding what it is and how it works. “Cuticle oil is a concentrated blend of nourishing oils designed to hydrate the cuticle area and the nail plate,” explains Jessica. “Think of it as a serum for your nails as it penetrates deeply to soften dry cuticles, improve flexibility and keep the nail matrix healthy. When the cuticle area is hydrated, nails tend to look glossier, smoother and more polished, even without colour.”

In addition to damage that can occur from gel and acrylic nails, brittleness, thinning, peeling and splitting can also be caused by biting, picking and harsh chemicals. “Cuticle oil is one of the simplest but most transformative steps in nail care,” Jessica says. “Regular oiling replenishes lost lipids, improves nail elasticity and helps prevent peeling and splitting. It’s also key for maintaining the skin around the nail, which supports healthy growth and reduces hangnails and irritation.”

So, how does cuticle oil work to improve nail health? “Nails are made of keratin layers, and when those layers become dehydrated, they separate and weaken, leading to peeling and breakage,” the pro nail artist says. “Cuticle oil works by penetrating those layers and reinforcing the nail’s natural lipid barrier, helping it retain moisture and stay flexible. A flexible nail is a strong nail because it bends rather than snaps.” She advises looking for cuticle oils that are rich in jojoba, vitamin E and almond oil – ingredients that are particularly effective as they mimic the nail’s natural oils.

Jessica advises applying cuticle oil after washing your hands or removing nail polish, “because this is when your nails are most dehydrated”. To properly apply your cuticle oil and maximise the results, she says: “Apply a small drop to each cuticle and gently massage it into the nail and surrounding skin – the massage is key as it increases circulation and supports healthy nail growth.” An important reminder, she adds is to let it fully absorb before applying hand cream or nail polish, “so it doesn’t dilute the products or how your polish adheres”.

“Ideally, cuticle oil should be applied daily, especially if you wear gels, use hand sanitiser frequently, or are exposed to cold weather,” says Jessica. “For very dry nails, twice daily can be beneficial.” The great news is that you can’t really overdo it with cuticle oil, as your nails will only absorb what they need. Most importantly, Jessica says consistent use it better than quantity, “as little and often is better than a lot once a week”.

In addition to using cuticle oil to strengthen and repair nails, Jessica recommends protecting them from environmental stressors too by “wearing gloves for cleaning and avoiding using nails as tools for opening cans or peeling stickers”. Another mistake she notes is incorrectly using a nail file, suggesting “gentle filing in one direction, rather than sawing back and forth to prevent splitting”. Above all, it’s important to remember that hydration is essential, so regular cuticle oil and hand cream application are key.