If a fresh set of nails is your idea of heaven, you’re already probably familiar with gel polishes such as shellac. But as with most things in the beauty world, formulations and technology move fast, and salons are now asking far more than which shade you fancy. From BIAB to SNS powder, a glossy, long-lasting mani can be achieved in a myriad of ways. But how do you know which one is best for you?
Everything you need to know.
Here, Glamour breaks down all you need to know about the differences between SNS powder, acrylics, BIAB and shellac nails with expert guidance from celebrity nail technician, Milly Mason.
What is SNS powder?
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SNS powder is formulated from a combination of powder and glue and is also often referred to as ‘dip powder’. SNS is the brand name (which is where it gets its name) and it’s loved by nail techs for the long-lasting, glossy finish it creates. Unlike BIAB, which is only available in a small range of neutral shades, SNS powder is available in a plethora of colours. Another reason why this option is popular is that it doesn’t need a UV light to cure the polish, nor does it have the headache-inducing smell of acrylic and some gel polishes.
What the experts say:
“SNS is a dip powder nail system that's very popular in the US and available in a wide range of shades,” explains celebrity nail technician, Milly Mason. “It has very low odour and no UV/LED lamp is required.”
How is it applied?
“A base adhesive is applied before the nail is dipped into powder, this process is usually repeated, then hardened with an activator, buffed smooth, and finished with a top coat,” explains Mason.
What are acrylics?
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If you like a longer, more dramatic look to your nails, acrylics will probably be your go to. Acrylic powder is made using polymer and liquid monomer which is mixed together to create a strong glue-like texture that’s then applied to the nails. This is then shaped and buffed to the length and shape of your choosing - whether that’s super long and pointy or a more demure almond. One of the reasons that people love acrylic is its durability, and you can expect a set of acrylic nails to last for around eight weeks.
What the experts say:
“Acrylic is a very hard nail product with a strong odour during application, it’s made by combining liquid monomer and powder, and is commonly used for nail extensions as well as natural nail overlays,” says Mason.
How is it applied?
“A brush is dipped into monomer and then powder to create a soft putty like bead of product, which is applied to the nail quickly before it sets, buffed, and sealed with a top coat,” explains Mason.
What is BIAB?
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If you find that gel polishes like shellac are a bit too soft for your nails and lifestyle, BIAB is a great alternative. They’re a gentler option than acrylic but significantly more durable that most gel and regular polishes. An added benefit? BIAB also encourages the growth of your natural nails beneath - ideal if you’re really making an effort to gain some length or get out of a nail-biting habit. Another bonus with BIAB is that they can also be infilled, extending the life of your mani by another couple of weeks.
What the experts say:
Mason says that, “BIAB is a strengthening builder gel cured under a UV/LED lamp, offering more strength than gel polish but less than acrylic.”
How is it applied?
“A thin layer is applied and cured, followed by a slightly thicker layer to create an apex for strength, then finished with a top coat and cured,” says Mason.
What is shellac?
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Created and owned by CND nails (Creative Nail Design), shellac is a patented brand of gel nail polish. It’s slightly softer than harder forms of gel polish and after application - where it’s painted on in thin coats - it’s cured using a UV lamp. This leaves a very glossy finish that doesn’t chip as easily as regular polish and stays put for around two weeks. As it’s not quite as durable as acrylic or BIAB, it only needs to be soaked off with acetone and doesn’t require a lot of buffing or filing. This makes it slightly kinder to the natural nail. The downside is that it can’t be used to extend the length of the nail like acrylics can, and you may find this is too soft an option if you have a very hands-on job or are prone to picking at your mani.
What the experts say:
“Shellac is a long lasting gel polish designed for natural nails,” says Mason. “This makes it ideal for shorter nails.”
How is it applied?
“It is applied like traditional polish using a base coat, colour, and top coat, with each layer cured under a UV/LED lamp,” Mason explains.
Which one should I choose? SNS powder, acrylics, BIAB or shellac nails?
When deciding on the nail technique for you, there are a few points to consider. First of all, what’s your lifestyle like? If you use your hands a lot, you may find a more durable option like BIAB lasts longer. If you want dramatic length and a mani that lasts up to eight weeks, ask for acrylic or SNS powder. Likewise, if you find regular polish just doesn’t last, but you don’t want anything too harsh, shellac is a safe bet. BIAB is a great safe middle ground for anyone wanting a sturdier manicure and the wish to protect and grow their natural nails beneath.
What does Mason recommend? “Shellac is ideal if you want a long-lasting colour that doesn’t chip and looks like regular polish (great for shorter nails) and BIAB is perfect for medium to long nails, as it allows an apex to be built for extra strength, helping prevent snapping and supporting nail growth," she says. “SNS dip powder works best on medium length nails to provide added strength without bulk, and acrylic is best for longer extensions where maximum strength and structure are needed.”
