I had my scalp scanned and the results were so *horrifying* you have to see it to believe it
Looking through the lens all I can see is a sea of white that looks like the scaly bottom of my kettle. What I'm actually looking at is my scalp. Scratch that, it should be my scalp but as not much of it is peaking through it's more of a sludgy affair – somewhere fish might go to forage, perhaps. Needless to say, it's put me off my sushi lunch.
It's no secret that scalp care is the new skincare and rightfully so, as the skin north of your forehead suffers from the same issues – spots, sensitivity and oiliness – as your face. Not only that, but getting to the root of things – literally – can improve both the health and growth of your hair strands.
It seems everyone is jumping on the trend with luxe brands such as Augustinus Bader and Dr Barbara Sturm launching scalp treatments that rival facial serums they're so high-tech. While new collections from Kérastase and Aveda focus on relieving the symptoms of dandruff.
But today, I'm in the chair with Act + Acre, a cult scalp care brand that first launched in the US in 2019 with an 18,000+ person wait list for its Cold Processed Stem Cell Serum after selling out. Its mission is to take hair care into the wellness space and at its helm is Helen Reavey, a hairstylist turned trichologist, who used to be part of Sam McKnight’s elite backstage squad at Fashion Week.
“I want scalp to have its own category," Helen says. "It's a natural progression as the scalp is an extension of your face and ages six times faster from exposure to heat and the elements, and the fact that we don't do anything to care for it.”
What causes an unhealthy scalp?
Scalp health impacts hair health, Helen explains. “50% of people before the age of 40 have some type of hair loss, while one in two suffer from some type of scalp issue. If your hair is dull, lifeless, it gets oily or you feel like you can't style it and it won't even hold a curl – all those common things come from product build up and not taking care of the scalp.”
When the scalp is thrown out of balance, it has a domino effect. Perhaps your hair never feels really clean or maybe your scalp is so dry, it has entered into snowflake territory. “The goal is to get the scalp to homeostasis, where there is a balance between good and bad bacteria to avoid itchiness and various inflammatory responses,” Helen adds.
How can I improve my scalp health?
The easy answer: “It's crucial to keep the scalp really clean when new hair is coming through as you want it to have the best environment; for the circulation to be good so it's pumping blood to the hair follicle and delivering nutrients,” Helen notes. "If you don't, pollution and product build up will get in the way and hair regrowth will come through finer.”
With that in mind, Act+Acre has launched an eight-product line-up in the UK, revolving around its hero Cold Processed Scalp Detox treatment and Cold Processed Stem Cell Scalp Serum.
As for the term ‘cold processed’ in the name? Helen notes that instead of using high temperatures to extract the oils, Act+Acre relies on ice-cold water and high pressure to retain the potency — a little like your cold-pressed green juice. “If you overcook vegetables, you lose the nutrients because extreme heat leads to the evaporation of vital minerals - the same is true with these ingredients,” she says.
My scalp health check
In order to work out my personal prescription, Helen takes a device that magnifies the skin cells on my scalp while also doubling up as a tiny camera. I'm feeling pretty smug at this point – I have fine hair and therefore wash it every day, so surely I'll come top of class with a squeaky clean, perfectly balanced scalp. Not quite.
While I'm doing the right thing washing my hair every day ("Do you wash your face once a week? Then why would you do that to your scalp?" Helen asks), I'm doing so using hard water, which causes a build up of minerals to produce a film on the scalp that blocks the follicles, and can lead to itchiness and inflammation.
And as for that squeaky clean feel? It's actually the result of stripping the scalp's protective skin barrier – hence the patches of red, dry, irritated skin. Oh, and I probably don't have an oily scalp and greasy roots in the first place. “Silicone build up from most conditioners can make it look like you have an oily scalp because it's like a magnet and attracts dirt and smog,” Helen explains.
She immediately applies a combination of the Scalp Renew, which Helen likens to a “salicylic acid gel face wash” to gently exfoliate, and the hero Scalp Detox, a pre-cleanse oil, which breaks down build-up, delivers nourishment directly to the hair follicle and stimulates blood flow for hair growth via basil leaf extract.
Twenty minutes later, my hair is freshly washed and blow-dried so we repeat the scalp scan.
Little to no white sludge hugs the base of my hair follicles, the fire engine red patches have simmered down to a barely noticeable pink and my hair literally feels like silk.
But perhaps the greatest litmus test was my mum. Months of cancer treatment had left her with something that resembled cradle cap. As if by magic, one use of the Scalp Detox removed all trace of a scalp condition where other lotions had failed to even scratch the surface (pardon the pun).
I've continued my daily routine with the hair cleanse, conditioner and Stem Cell Serum, adding in the Scalp Detox once a week and the Scalp Renew once a month. I like the minimalist, targeted approach as it's in line with my overall skincare ethos.
Plus, unlike other scalp regimes I've tried in the past, Act + Acre doesn't dampen my hair colour. Quite the opposite, in fact – my blonde highlights seem more vibrant than ever. Throw in deep-tissue head massage and it's like a blissful DIY scalp facial.
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Acting Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
More of the best scalp serums…
Dr Barbara Sturm Anti-Hair Fall Hair & Scalp Serum, £80, Space NK
A host of botanical extracts protect the hair and scalp against heat, pollution particles and UV stress, while an innovative form of hyaluronic acid (Cationic Hyaluronic Acid) adheres to the hair, enabling it to continue hydrating brittle strands long after rinsing.
Augustinus Bader The Scalp Treatment, £64, Cult Beauty
Containing the same TFC8 complex – amino acids, vitamins and special molecules to activate the stem cells – found in all Augustinus Bader skincare, the idea is to target the hair's root to improve cell function, strength and growth rate.
Kérastase Symbiose Intensive Anti-Dandruff Cellular Night Serum, £41.22, Look Fantastic
This milky serum cocktails piroctone olamine, a common anti-dandruff ingredient, with salicylic acid to mop up the excess oil that this fungus feeds off.
Necessaire The Scalp Serum, £60, Space NK
With strengthening peptides, moisturising hyaluronic acid and antioxidant green tea, the ingredients list reads more like the back of skincare bottle.
Aveda Scalp Solutions Overnight Scalp Renewal Serum, £42, Look Fantastic
This overnight serum has one aim: to nourish the scalp while you sleep, whether that's in the form of drip feeding it moisture to avoid flakes or deploying castor oil to create a healthy environment for future hair growth.
