The enduring power of red lipstick – and how to pick your perfect shade
Dragon Girl, Ruby Woo, Goldie Red and 999 – they sound like a glossy line up of Bond Girls (or Marvel villains, depending on your mood). That's the whole point of red lipstick. Depending on what character energy you want to channel, red lipstick is like your – sassy, sophisticated and sometimes scandalous – alter ego.
“A red lipstick can instantly transform the you way look, feel and carry yourself," confirms Givenchy makeup artist Claire Mulleady. “While a red can tell many different stories depending on the shade and style of the lip, it always conveys a confidence.”
And in case anyone is in any doubt as to its timeless appeal, look no further than New York Fashion Week, where different iterations – from a softly blurred-out ombré lip at Ulla Johnson to a romantic red pout at Alice + Olivia – gave us a tantalising glimpse into how we'll be wearing a crimson lip in spring 2025.
The history of red lipstick
Over the centuries, red lipstick has visually telegraphed beauty, affluence, sex and rebellion. “In western culture, the colour red has long been associated with power and danger – and, by extension, the 'femme fatale',” says Maria Costantino, a lecturer in cultural and historical studies at the London College of Fashion.
Historians can trace the origins of red lipstick back to Mesopotamia around 5,000 years ago. “Red lipstick has a longer history than many people may think," says Gregoris Pyrpylis, creative director for Hermès Beauty. "It goes back to ancient times, when women would crush gemstones or insects and mix the pigments with oils or waxes,” he adds.
One of its earliest fans is thought to have been Cleopatra. Thanks to Elizabeth Arden, it also became a symbol of defiance for the suffragettes in 1912 and, for similar reasons, red lipstick became mandatory for women who joined the US Army in WWII.
“Red lipstick was also extensively used in black and white movies," says Maria. “In order to get the range of grey tones, ranging from deep black to light white, film makers needed to think in colour – and red lipstick was used to give actors' mouths great definition.”
Hollywood movies also inspired makeup legend François Nars, who has just launched five red hues as part of the Explicit Lipstick collection – including a retina-burning, orange red shade called Incendiary – to commemorate the brand's 30th anniversary.
Speaking to GLAMOUR about its enduring legacy, he says, "Red lipstick has always been associated with glamour – every single movie star wore red lipstick, from the silent movie stars to Marilyn Monroe. Women remember that, and they remember their mum, their grandmothers wearing red lipstick… it has that power of transformation."
Red lipstick as a power move
More recently, icons such as Taylor Swift and Rihanna have leant into the shade as a power move with (reportedly) Pat McGrath LiquiLUST Legendary Wear Matte Lipstick in Elson 4 and Fenty Beauty's Icon Velvet Liquid Lipstick in The MVP, respectively.
After all, a face can transform with a slick of the right ruby hue. But its effect on how you feel has only recently become the subject of psychological research.
“We literally 'make up' our appearance so others can read us," says Maria. "We use make-up to communicate aspects of our identity – our membership of certain tribes or subcultures, and our fashionability. Wearing lipstick is a cultural practice and is bound up with our sense of self as individuals, and as members of social groups.”
A swipe of red lipstick can also feel like war paint on days when you need to raise your chin and square your shoulders. Think of Holly Golightly in Breakfast At Tiffany's saying, “Hand me my purse, will you, darling? A girl can't read that sort of thing without her lipstick.”
It creates a psychological shift, notes Gregoris. “Red is a striking, vibrant, assertive colour that draws attention," he says. “It has the ability to empower the wearer but also to change how someone views themselves," he continues. “In psychology, it is known that red can stimulate a sense of confidence, making the wearer feel more attractive and in control.”
Specifically, one study discovered that women who wore makeup scored higher on a test, which psychologists say could be down to this ‘lipstick effect’ – when a boost in self-esteem has a knock-on effect on cognitive skills and memory.
All of which brings us back to those kick-ass red lipstick names. As François points out: “The name has to be punchy. You want it to be more than a lipstick – you want it to be iconic.”
How to find the perfect shade of red lipstick
And yet, despite being so empowering, red lipstick seems to trip a lot of us up. The beauty of red lipstick is that everyone can wear it, but in order to find the perfect match, it is important to assess your skin's undertones first, says Claire.
“If you have a warm, golden skin tone, then a warm or orange-based red will complement it perfectly,” she notes. “Blue reds work best on cooler undertones. Pairing your favourite nude lip liner with a red lipstick can also soften the shade and make it feel like a better fit.”
The formula is also important – “a little stain is nice,” says François – but, ultimately, the real power of red lipstick is deeply personal. "Red lipstick means whatever the wearer wants it to mean – and that is what really matters,” says Maria. Even the stain it leaves on a wine glass is as unique to you as your fingerprint.
For me, blurred edges, much like bedhead hair, conjure up breathless, romantic encounters. While statement swipes of scarlet, and lines as crisp as a stiletto heel, are for days when I need to boss it and feel more polished.
François echoes this sentiment: “Lipstick should be love at first sight. If you wear nothing else on your face, but you put on a red lipstick, you can face the world."
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