pH makeup is trending on TikTok because it gives your perfect shade with no colour matching needed

You may also be familiar with alkaline water, which has a pH greater than seven, and anything less than seven has acidic qualities. So tapping back into our beauty chat, our skin sits on the acidic side (around 4.5. to 5.5). This is important, and it’s important it stays there as the skin’s natural acidity locks the moisture in and keeps bad bacteria out. The pH of a beauty product can dictate how effective, reactive and stable it will be once in contact with the skin and can dramatically disrupt it and can cause dryness, inflammation and breakouts.

How does pH makeup work or is it just magic?

So pH makeup works with dye. Much like your chemistry class, the makeup product contains a dye that acts a bit like a litmus paper. The dye in the makeup will contain acidic, colourless and weak acids and it will trigger a small chemical reaction when in contact with the skin, whether it be cheeks, eyelids or lips, which should have a higher pH than the product itself. The result: a coloured pigment that in theory should perfectly match your natural complexion.

The final colour is unique to you as it’s simply a response to your specific pH, in that particular part of your skin and that particular time of the day. Sort of like those mood rings we were obsessed with in secondary school, which alter as the temperature of the body changes which ultimately shift it’s natural pH.

Can pH makeup come in any colour?

Technically, yes, although once they react to the skins pH they tend to lean towards pinkie hues as the finishing shade. Charlotte adds: “I think we tend to see these pH products in shocking colours such as green or black to see the full result of the transformation. The result of the reaction however does tend to be a variation of pink.”

What are the benefits of using pH colour changing makeup?

Aside from the obvious fact that they're so fun to apply and to look at, Charlotte adds: “One of the benefits of pH products is that every person will have a unique experience with the same product. I think we’re all loving a bit of personalisation, and this is really taking that to the next level. Your very own shade without having to fork out for a custom product.”

Is pH makeup suitable for all skin tones and types?

Yes and no. If we're talking about pink to neutral hues for eyes, cheeks and lips then sure. In fact, Charlotte tells us: “One of the best parts of pH colour changing makeup is that it works completely uniquely to your own skin and your own skin tone which should make it perfect for all skin tones. The results will vary incredibly from one person to another which could make some think that it has a higher intensity on some people however this is simply just how much of a reaction your skins pH has had rather than your skin tone”. However, once we start referencing complexion based products like foundations and concealers, the science is not quite advanced enough for it.

They're not necessarily formulated to adapt to skin pH, instead these only “suspend red and yellow iron oxide pigments in a white base.” says TikTok user @javonford16, so once mixed the colours will blend into a skin hue, however, they won't adapt to natural skin pH or your natural skin complexion. So if you see a colour changing foundation that claims to be universal, proceed with caution.

Are there any cons on pH powered makeup?

It’s natural to worry about whether pH powered makeup would alter the pH balance of the skin, but it’s incredibly unlikely as the acid used in pH colour changing makeup is very weak and it simply uses the skin as the catalyst. Although don’t rule out any irritation as you would with any beauty product, that means you should stop the use of it immediately.

There are makeup products that haven’t quite mastered the science in inclusivity when it comes to the pH alterations, like foundations, or certain blushers, so the con is that the science might not be advanced enough to suit people from all shades, from fairest to deepest.

Charlotte also finds that as fun as they are, the result is a little unpredictable. “It’s not like you can look at a swatch and know what it will look like on you. It may be hard to purchase the product planning on matching it to your outfit for example.”

They’re also not designed to give maximum colour deposit, so if you’re opting for out-out makeup, you may need to either layer up (as mostly their buildable) or opt in with your trusted old school formulations instead.

How do pH reactive products change over time?

As with any beauty product. pH makeup doesn’t have a shelf life of forever and a day. However, it should be in good standard for a while indicated in its packaging, usually under a PAO ‘period after opening’. Charlotte agrees adding: “Just as with all makeup, this is for hygiene reasons.” In order to preserve its shelf life, when applying your makeup, keep it away from the sun or excessive heat and make sure its safely closed after every use.

Now that you’re fully equipped with all the science and knowledge behind pH makeup, here are 11 products you should give a try…