Paris Fashion Week: 10 Talking Points
Paris Fashion Week has ended, thus bringing a month-worth of catwalk shows to a close. Paris is the fashion mecca, where all the heavyweights show their finest - from Chanel and Dior to Celine and Louis Vuitton. It's where ubiquitous trends are cemented and ideas are born.
So what are the takeaways? Allow us to take you through in 10 points:
Indigital1. THE NEW LABEL
Paris had its fair share of catwalk debuts and hot new labels on show. Ellery, designed by Russh magazine alumni Kym Ellery, has been building a following over the past four seasons. On the catwalk for the first time, we saw rhapsody of architectural sleeves and strategically placed cut outs. Elsewhere at the CFDA Americans in Paris showroom, we were impressed with Simon Miller (sturdy denim and to-die-for linen blouses) and Ryan Roche (peachy ruffled cashmere) while the poppy designs at Mira Mikati had buyers clamouring to order.
Balenciaga/Twitter2. THE BIGGEST NEWS
On the final day of fashion month, Demna Gvasalia, the head designer of the Vetements collective, was appointed artistic director of Balenciaga. Replacing Alexander Wang, the 34-year-old Georgian ,whose brand has become a major player on the street scene, was a surprise choice due to his anti-fashion attitude. Trained at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Gvasalia’s ability to deconstruct staples form jeans to hoodies has won him and the Vetements collective cult plaudits. Next season’s debut is sure to be the hottest ticket in town.
InDigital3. MOST UNLIKELY TREND
Rab C. Nesbit’s signature look had a high fashion makeover this season, with net vests and dresses abounding. Adding a gritty, urban edge to several polished collections, expect to see high street imitations galore. A word of warning: do not wear with a neon bra.
Indigital4. THE BEAUTY LOOK
We’ve already highlighted Brit model Ruth Bell’s close-cropped beauty, but she seems to be only one of the buzzcut pack this season. At Acne Studios, Soekie Gravenhorst opened the show in a blazer, shorn do and little else. She was followed by Achok Majak, Mae Telkamp, Grace Bol & Ms Bell, all sporting shaved cuts. Model twins with matching buzzcuts, Giulia and Camilla Venturini have also been generating column inches this week since their outing at Tods in Milan. The days of flowing locks are numbered.
Indigital5. SUMMER'S SHOE
Hitting the nail once again on its head, Isabel Marant’s tie up sandals are already on every editor’s shopping list (carved in stone). Watch them sell out as quickly as her spongy slides. The only question is: Do you go for the flats or heels? [N.B: the answer is clearly, both].
Getty Images6. THE SET-ACULAR
While everything may be bigger in Texas, when it comes to set design, it’s Paris’ mega brands that take the trophy. This season it was Dior’s blue delphinium covered Cour Carree, Chanel’s Grand Palais airport and Louis Vuitton’s video screen walls, reflecting the emotions of the clothing which most impressed.
Indigital7. THE ACCESSORY
Courtney Love has been having a pretty epic fashion month – first she performed at Philip Pleinn’s show in Milan and now she’s played muse to Hedi Slimane whose Saint Laurent collection referenced her iconic slip dress and tiara look. The tiara, we were told by Saint Laurent’s twitter account is to be WORN WITH EVERYTHING. Including the brand’s new wellies. That’s our 2016 Glasto look covered then.
Indigital8. THE STYLING NOTE
Skirts over trousers. Ribbed knits tied around open gauge sweaters. Two bags worn at once. No it’s not an attempt to circumnavigate Ryanair’s draconian baggage allowance – for Spring Summer 2016, it’s all about turbo layering. Which is very convenient for anyone living on a small island in the middle of the North Sea. Summer = pile on the layers. Hallelujah!
Indigital9. THE SHOW
Every season there’s one show that makes the audience forget the thousands of miles they’ve already travelled in the pursuit of ‘hot new trends’. For SS16 it was the Alexander McQueen show which brought a tear to the eye. Ruffles, ribbons, florals and lace created a wardrobe for a fairytale damsel. Inspired by 17th century Huguenot immigrants, the collection glided down the catwalk with effervescent femininity. The line also said, ‘serious Oscars material’. You heard it here first.
Indigital10. THE KEY PIECE
While underwear as outerwear has emerged as a major SS16 trend, in Paris it was all about the negligee slip. Worn alone or over an entire ensemble (see Miu Miu), the lacy, racy night dress has never looked so soignee.
