Designer Collaborations

Mulberry just dropped a totally joyful collection with Priya Ahluwalia to celebrate its 50th birthday

The Portobello bag is sustainably made and there's an important message behind its playful design
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Glamour first met Priya in Berlin in 2018 where she scooped H&M’s Design Award (and called her mum immediately after winning… “she screamed and then she cried!” Priya told us at the time.) Yes, we were wowed by the intricate craftsmanship and design details but the serious message behind her collections - sustainability and spreading awareness of social issues - is central to Ahluwalia’s DNA. In the years since, Ahluwalia has gone stellar. She won the LVMH prize in 2020 and earlier this year, the label was awarded the 2021 Queen Elizabeth II Award for Design. So, basically, major.

Mulberry tapped Priya to reimagine the Portobello tote - their first sustainable bag (launched in 2019, created in their carbon-neutral Somerset factory, using recycled thread.)

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Priya transformed the Portobello with her signature aesthetic and conscious messaging. The inspiration behind the collection? “As a Nigerian and Indian woman, I wanted to focus on the artistry and rituals around Afro-Caribbean hair as well as ideas about hair in Punjab, India. It’s a conversation I want to amplify as hair is often used as a tool of discrimination. The artistry, the politics, self-expression of Black hair, the way it’s a language, is so important to highlight and discuss. The seam lines and embroidery styles on the bags are drawn from the research into canerows and braiding. The colour references are taken from old hair shop posters. The badges are inspired by graphics from 1970's Black and South Asian movements that pushed for equality.” Echoing Ahluwalia’s commitment to sustainability the bags are made from repurposed fabrics and reworked leathers (hence the limited quantities.)

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There are four oversized Portobello Totes, five Portobello Totes and three Mini Portobello Totes plus four 100% organic silk scarves, which can be cleverly worn as a bandana or headscarf. To reiterate the importance of the message Mulberry have also signed up the Halo Code - a campaign pledge that aims to end discrimination in schools and workplaces against people with Afro-textured hair.

We’ve picked out our absolute favourite pieces (it was a seriously tough job.) The dark denim version of the classic sized Portobello and a badge-covered version of the oversized tote are ideal for stashing all your stuff although the Mini Portobellos are particularly desirable - the slick monochrome style is a forever buy while the printed denim version visibly harks back to Alhuwalia’s design inspiration and has a celebratory mood.

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Scroll through to see GLAMOUR’s favourite styles…

For more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton, follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton