How to apply false lashes, according to pro makeup artists
The days of caterpillar-thick strip lashes that curl up at the ends is long over. But if you're wondering how to apply false lashes so they go on easily and evenly, there are a couple of pro tips to bear in mind, whether you're looking for a dramatic flutter or a boost to your natural lashes.
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How to apply false lashes
Modern lashes typically take the form of wispy lash extensions – a strip of feathery lashes featuring different lengths of hair to mimic the pattern of real eyelashes. Then there are cluster lashes, which are tiny individual clusters of lashes that can be strategically applied along the lash line to add definition.
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False lashes should always be applied after eyeshadow and eyeliner, "otherwise you risk getting product on them, which can make them look grey and dirty,” says Gabriella Elio, founder of Sweed Beauty.
“I always start with curling my natural lashes with an eyelash curler and then applying a thin coat of mascara to help the natural lashes blend with the false lashes,” says Eylure makeup artist Meera Shah.
Lash primer is also a key part of prepping your natural lashes, according to Saffron Hughes, in-house makeup artist at FalseEyelashes. “There’s a common misconception that lash primer should only be used before mascara," she says. “However, it's also ideal for false eyelash wearers. A lash primer cleanses and preps your natural lashes to create a smooth, oil-free surface for the glue to bond. Essentially, using a good primer improves adhesion and helps your false lashes to last longer.”
“Applying lash glue to lashes that aren’t completely dry is a big mistake, especially if you’re planning to work out or it's hot outside," says Saffron. "Any moisture on the lashes or glue weakens the bond and increases the chance of lashes lifting or falling off quickly. Before application, always ensure your lashes and glue are fully dry. This gives you the strongest hold possible, so your lashes stay put.”
“Depending on whether you pick a strip lash or a cluster lash, you will need to measure and trim it,” says Meera. "If you pick a strip lash, gently remove the lashes from the tray using a lash applicator or tweezer. Place the strip lash along your lash line to measure and trim from the outer edge if needed.
"For cluster lashes, choose the longest for the outside and make your way towards the inner corner with shorter lashes,” she continues, adding that her go-to for this is Eylure's Clusters Fluffy Lashes, starting with the 12mm on the outer, then 10mm in the middle and 8mm towards the inner corner.
“Use tweezers to hold each cluster lash before dipping the base into the eyelash glue,” says Gabrielle. If you're using strip lashes, “apply a thin layer of lash glue along the band," adds Meera. "Wait 20-30 seconds until it becomes tacky as this helps them to stick better.”
“Using tweezers, place the strip lash in the centre of your lash line first,” advises Meera. “Then secure the outer corner, followed by the inner corner. If you’re using clusters, start from the outer corner and work inwards for a soft, natural finish.”
It's also recommended that you lean your elbow on a table when doing so to steady your hand and, rather than look straight into a mirror, look downwards into a mirror placed at a 90 degree angle under your face.
“Gently press the false lashes together with your natural lashes using tweezers or your fingers,” says Meera. “I would then apply a thin layer of eyeliner to the lash band if needed, extending to the inner corner of your eye,” to make the band less obvious.
"Once dry, finish with a single coat of mascara, brushing from the base of your lashes upwards so your natural lashes blend into the false ones,” says Gabrielle.
Just avoid using waterproof formulas. “Waterproof mascara is harsh on false eyelashes," Saffron notes. "It’s difficult to remove and requires rubbing, which damages both natural and false lashes and can cause them to break or fall out prematurely. Instead, I suggest using smudge-proof but gentle mascaras, such as Glossier’s Lash Slick mascara. It gives you the desired definition, but without the harsh removal process.”
What else to consider:
It might sound obvious, but touching your lashes is actually quite unhygienic. According to Saffron: “You’re transferring bacteria, dirt, and oils to your eyes, which not only weakens the glue but can also cause irritation or infections like conjunctivitis. If you need to adjust your lashes during the day, always wash and dry your hands thoroughly first. It’s a simple step that keeps your lashes fresh and your eyes comfortable.”
“Suncream is key for protecting your skin, but not many people realise that some formulas are too heavy or oily around the eyes for false eyelash wearers," says Saffron. “These ingredients break down lash glue, causing your lashes to lift or slide off.”
She recommends using lightweight, oil-free sunscreens such as La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Oil Control Fluid SPF50 or Clinique Super City Block Oil-Free SPF 40. "These protect your skin without compromising lash adhesion. The best approach is to apply your sunscreen first, let it fully absorb, and then apply your lashes.”
If you're in a hot environment, you may also want to consider applying a primer over your eyelids as an oily surface makes it hard for lash glue to bond properly. “Even if your lashes look great when you first apply them, they will start to lift as oils break down the glue,” says Saffron.
“To avoid this, I recommend blotting your eyelids before application and using an oil-control eye primer like Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion. This type of product creates a clean, matte base that locks down oils and keeps lashes secure.”
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Associate Beauty Director, follow her on Instagram @fiembleton.
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