#TheAlexEdit: A who's who guide to the new fashion week frow
As Fashion Month creeps up on on the style set, tickets are fiercely fought over and seating allocations are a topic hotter than the weather (believe me, that’s usually the main point of conversation with the audience, especially as this season is usually the coldest!).
From the start of the season, which begins with New York Fashion Week on February 7th through to the bitter end on March 5th, in Paris, who sits where is signifier of importance in the industry.
The front row is closest to the action and where industry VIPs get their seats. You’re so near the clothes that sometimes a swish of super-sized gown will brush your ankles or a rogue loose feather floats down from the model’s outfit and lands in your lap.
Traditionally, the catwalk was divided. Magazines and newspapers were on one side, whilst buyers from the biggest department stores on the other. The hierarchy of Editors and directors took prime position through to assistants and interns standing in the back (and barely able to see below the model’s shoulders… let alone catch a glimpse of their shoes…)
Now, times are changing. Although Anna Wintour isn’t going to be hoisted out of her seat any time soon, there’s a new FROW in town. In celebration of Irina Shayk as GLAMOUR's February Digital Cover star of our Fashion Issue, here is GLAMOUR’S guide to the three new tribes you can expect to see this season…
The Hot Shot Fashion Buyer
Buying is the business end of the fashion chain. However amazing a designer’s show, if the collection isn’t picked up by a major store, it will languish in obscurity. Buyers need incredibly analytic brains to work out what will sell in their stores… it’s not just about choosing pretty pieces. Their job turns fashion into industry. The buyers to watch are those that are an embodiment of the brands their stops stock. Decked out in the newest drops of the coolest labels - mixed in with pieces from their designer friends - their influence extends beyond those who shop their buys in store. Tiffany Hsu, Fashion Buying Director at MyTheresa.com @handinfire has cemented her space in the fashion world by becoming a street style must-shoot and therefore an online influencer, beyond her day job, too.
The Stylist Every Celebrity Has On Speed Dial
Ushered in by eagle-eyed PRs, this FROW face is equally important as the A-list names they style. Usually dressed anonymously in casual gear (because it’s not about them), the celebrity stylists are here to ear-mark appropriate outfits for their mega star clients - for upcoming music videos, stage costumes or award ceremony celebrations. Dabbling in design too, the top tier stylists are more than just ‘wardrobe’ and have taken their immaculate taste to the next level. The woman who creates some of the red carpet’s most memorable moments for Gwyneth Paltrow and Saiorse Ronan, Elizabeth Saltzman, collaborated the brand that design her signature platform sandals, Rocket Dog, while LaQuan Smith (responsible for dressing Beyonce and Kim Kardashian West) bought out a line with ASOS last year, as well as creating his own catwalk collection.
The Next-Gen Fashion Influencer
Balancing a tiny bag on her knee with phone superglued to her hand, (laptop charging in the car, obvs), this FROW attendee can rack up thousands of likes from their insta content. Her tens of thousands of followers crave her insider view and the super useful swipe-to-shop of her impeccably styled outfits. Naturally, she’ll be dressed head-to-toe in whichever designer she is sitting show-side of (including that tiny bag.) Side hustling as an art director, stylist, model, photographer and activist - as well as writing her blog - the new generation of influencers have proved that the multi-hyphen method is the way to go.
Didn't snare a seat on the frow? Scroll down to muse the trends from last season that we'll all be wearing this year...
1. OVERSIZED HATS
If you so much as glanced at your Instagram feed last summer, you no doubt spotted a Jacquemus La Bomba hat. Now entirely synonymous with SS18, it seems brands are vying for similar cult status next season by producing their own delicious incarnations that we already can't get enough of.
Spotted at: Rejina Pyo (left), Xiao Li (centre), Yuhan Wang/Fashion East (right), Ryan Lo and Simone Rocha
2. SENSIBLE SHORTS
Cycling shorts may have stolen the show last year, but - and thank the Lord - next season things are looking a little looser. Tailored, micro, knee-length... skirts may be given a few months off as we all look to the more boyish alternative for our new summer go-to.
Spotted at: Alexa Chung (left), Margaret Howell (centre), Rejina Pyo (right) and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
3. TIGHT PLEATS
Having had a successful run last year, pleats are back for SS19 but this time they're a whole lot more intricate. Tighter than before, the micro pleat provides maximum impact as it generates not only more movement but also a more fluctuating silhouette as it expands and contracts. Science-y, eh?
Spotted at: Givenchy (left), Preen by Thornton Bregazzi (centre), Balmain (right), Pringle and Roland Mouret
4. TIE-DYE
I know. We were all surprised at the recurrence of this 60s print, but alas it seems tie-dye truly is back in fash. Admittedly, 2019's take on the trend is a hell of a lot chicer. Make like Stella with a no-holds-barred approach and opt for a bold matching two-piece, or - if you're anything like us - you'll likely favour a more subtle beach maxi.
Spotted at: Stella McCartney (left), Prabal Gurung (centre) and R13 (right)
5. FANCY FLATS
While models over at Halpern, Ashish and David Koma were teetering precariously atop stiletto heels, things at Valentino and Simone Rocha were a whole lot more down to earth. About six inches closer to said earth, to be precise. And boy are we looking forward to spending next season in comfy, fancy flats for the sake of #fashun.
Spotted at: Valentino (left), Simone Rocha (centre), Temperley London (right) and Burberry
6. SUMMER WATERPROOFS
If last summer's unpredictable weather taught us anything, it's that you can never be too prepared. So providing you also carry a bikini, sunglasses and knee-high wellington boots with you at all times, these fair-weather waterproofs should serve you well.
Spotted at: Max Mara (left), Marc Jacobs (centre), Jil Sander (right), Sportmax and Etro
7. FRINGING
With last autumn's obsession with the cowboy boot, it was almost inevitable that there would be another Western-inspired trend infiltrating our wardrobes next season. Adorning everything from jackets to skirts via handbags and everything in-between, who knows... maybe we'll be cutting our hair to fit too.
Spotted at: Coach (left), Tom Ford (centre) and Cushnie
8. NEON
Not one for the faint-hearted, vibrant zesty hues are back with a bang this year after endless seasons of the fashion pack drooling over all things pastel. If you're feeling extra brave opt for a double-dose à la Jasper Conran.
Spotted at: Natasha Zinko (left), Jasper Conran (centre), Roksanda (right), Rejina Pyo, House of Holland and Ashish
9. PUFFED SHOULDERS
Bold shoulders are no new thing, but rather than padded, boxy numbers, next season's take is a whole lot puffier. Often gathered at the shoulder with pleats of elastic, they work particularly well with square necklines on feminine dresses. Here's hoping the weather allows us to forgo a jacket, or that volume could provide a stumbling block.
Spotted at: Brock Collection (left), Rodarte (centre), Saint Laurent (right), Mara Hoffman and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
10. SEQUINS
Have sequins ever not been on trend? Perhaps not, but they were so prevalent at this month's shows that we can't ignore them. Offered up in endless incarnations, opt for a more gently beaded style - like Ashish's mint green jumpsuit - for a friend's birthday dinner, before swapping into blindingly glitzy Halpern-like number for your own.
Spotted at: Ashish (left), Halpern (centre), House of Holland (right), David Koma and Roberta Einer
