Why today’s Chanel couture show in Paris is exactly the escapism we need right now

Dior explores the idea of tarot cards as a vehicle for escapism and fantasy for Haute Couture SS21

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By Charlie Teather

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Likewise today, Chanel provided video links to a select number of clients and press after a teaser, directed by legendary filmmaker Anton Corbijn (and soundtracked by Depeche Mode) was released hinting at silver sequins and sparkle.

And sure enough, there were metallics for days… The models walked through the Grand Palais as normal but faced with an audience that you could count on one hand (including Lily-Rose Depp, Marion Cotillard and Penelope Cruz) the huge space felt eerily silent as a wistful reworking of Be My Baby by The Ronettes was the only soundtrack to the black and white film. But then… colour arrived (an apt metaphor for when All This Is Over, perhaps?) and the music changed to a hiNRG beat from Chemz.

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Waistcoats encrusted with sparkling bugle beads, tulle off the shoulder details on little black dresses, bell-shaped silk party gowns and sharp tweed tailored trouser suits bought the drama. The fullest skirts (with tiers of pastel ruffles or cascading black silk) looked fresh with simple white blouses. If you’re not in the market to shop couture right now then why not try wearing your most fabulous pieces mixed with daywear to break the fun of lockdown leisurewear? Fishnet tights were an elegant addition (and an easy way to work the look at home) while a flower circlet around your head looks romantic. Take a selfie, will you?

Couture shows traditionally end with a bridal outfit… Chanel’s was a butterfly embroidered satin frock coat which entered on a beautiful grey horse while Virginie Viard took her bow - in a waistcoat.

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With enough clothes in the world to dress the next six generations no one needs clothes, let alone couture ones. But perhaps, these are the most sustainable clothes on the planet as they are only made to order with respect paid to the petit mains who sew, embellish and fit these rarest of pieces. Couture is a far more ethical and transparent part of the fashion industry than so many fast fashion brands that burning of returns, build mountains of deadstock, are responsible for habitats becoming deserts as cotton production soars and garment makers dying in sweatshops. Celebrating the craft of clothes is far too underrated right now. Plus we could all do with a break from our loungewear and tracksuits, even if it’s only for a few moments of gazing on magical clothes on a video screen. That’s why couture truly matters.

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