Even though ‘Wuthering Heights’ hasn’t reached British cinemas yet (it’s opening on Friday, 13th February), Emerald Fennell’s take on the Brontë literary classic has already created a massive buzz. Partially thanks to the masterful press tour that has followed Margot Robbie’s method dressing transformation into a sexy goth, but also due to the looseness of Fennell’s adaptation of the novel. The filmmaker and her team took classic elements of Victorian Gothic style, usually associated with the story, and embellished them with Georgian, Elizabethan, and even contemporary elements. The costume design, imagined by Oscar-winning Jacqueline Durran, definitely fits into the idea of imagination and creativity that some purists might find offensive. But when the film director explained that the film is in fact a “fever dream” homage to her personal interpretation of the novel she first read as a teenager, the extreme exuberance suddenly made sense.
Following this approach of clueless creativity, the film’s costumes are a mash-up of different eras and geographical influences, executed perfectly for the TikTok generation, who are ready to transform themselves into their own version of Margot Robbie’s Cathy. The hero characters and their wardrobes are filled with Easter eggs that are eye-catching and referential to contemporary designers like Mugler and Alexander McQueen, though Durran insists she didn’t want any of these elements shown explicitly. It’s the kind of total world-building that makes the film an immersive experience, one you might want to incorporate in your everyday life.
In anticipation of the inevitable romantic goth style revival, we want to break down aspects of the ‘Wuthering Heights’ costumes that can be easily incorporated into your everyday style, without making you look like an extra who just walked off the set.
Red latex & satin
Okay, let's start with the trickiest one. Yes, latex is the least Victorian fabric in the world, and no, you probably won't find yourself wearing a gown on a random Tuesday. But that shouldn't stop you from finding a way to incorporate shiny red fabrics into your life. In fact, red is one of the main stylistic throughlines in the film, appearing in many of Cathy's 50 or so looks. And in satin and latex, the crimson colour becomes an even bolder statement. Latex expert brands like Atsuko Kudo or Poster Girl have a wide selection of pieces in this specific shade, including accessories, dresses, lingerie and tops, all of which will bring out that devious side of Cathy. Similarly, a red satin bra poking out of a white see-through shirt won't only make a fab Valentine's day look, but a chic all-year-round outfit that will take you from day (buttoned up) to night (unbuttoned).
Dirndl tops
One of the more surprising styles that pop up in the film is the Oktoberfest-esque corset, top and skirt combo that only Margot Robbie can pull off in a fashion kinda way. Don't worry, I'm not suggesting you take the challenge of this whole look, braid some plaits and grab a tankard. Instead, wear just the underlayer – a frilly dirndl blouse in an airy white cotton or red gingham. If you're looking for vintage originals, just search for ‘dirndl shirt’ on eBay or Etsy. There is a variety of silhouettes, with puff sleeves being a key part of the piece. To make sure you don't end up in fancy dress territory, pair with pieces that are undeniably modern – a pair of baggy or barrel jeans or a patent leather skirt, and make sure to avoid suede or thick wool.
Off-the-shoulder necklines
Margot Robbie has probably got the best clavicle in the biz and Jacqueline Durran wanted to make sure everyone is aware. As shown throughout the film, her off-the-shoulder dresses are incredibly flattering, especially for those who are privileged with a broad shoulder. This neckline helps frame the face and allows you to play around with other accessories as well as building a statement beauty look. It's a totally versatile piece that is perfect for layering, and looks particularly chic in a casual setting. A dark jean, a heeled ballerina and a bold earring, and you're basically sorted for the whole season.
Subversive transparency
Alison Oliver's take on the prototype of a pick-me girl, Isabella, has a wardrobe that is in total contrast with Catherine's. Instead of severe and sexy, her looks are frothy, frilly and almost cartoonish in their over-the-top-ness. But what she does have to offer to your winter wardrobe is the masterful play of revealing skin with a sense of sweetness. Her ribbonned, ruched dresses have a connection to contemporary brands like Cecilie Bahnsen, Susan Fang and Simone Rocha – all very good at finding a balance between playfulness and attitude. If you feel like Isabella is your kindred spirit, consider tulle or mesh as a hero fabric, especially pieces in soft pastels or dainty floral prints.
Floral corsets
We didn't even need "Wuthering Heights" to tell us the corset is back because… well, the corset is back! Once a symbol of constraint and control, the piece has now found its new life as a reclaimed symbol of modern femininity. Catherine's corsets are definitely on the bolder side – our favourite of the bunch being a floral brocade with red and green embroidery. While she wears hers with a see-through shirt in a matching fabric, we recommend using the piece as a winter layer. A classic wool trouser and a bodycon turtleneck can look like a street style combo of dreams when you top them off with a contrasting floral corset. Breaking the rules of its original era and creating unexpected pairings is what makes a historically-inspired piece look instantly modern.
Cross & pearl jewellery
As a Chanel ambassador, Margot Robbie's wardrobe in the film included several vintage jewellery pieces from the French house. It's no surprise then that Catherine's jewellery stood out in its own right, often pulling focus in the scenes. Instantly, pieces with crosses, multicoloured stones and pearls shot to the tops of our shopping wishlists. A pearl choker is particularly versatile IRL – it can be worn inside a shirt, over a t-shirt or even under a collar as an unexpected detail.
And while we might not be as lucky as Jacqueline Durran in having access to Chanel archives, there are many pieces out there that can do the exact same job. Decadent and sparkly, you will find vintage gems on resale sights; and because brooches are still waiting their official comeback, they come at a pretty accessible price, too. Add them to your favourite winter coat, or use them as an opportunity to play with the silhouette – pinning skirts up or ruching your top with a brooch is a great way to innovate on wardrobe staples you already own.
