A step-by-step guide to transitional layering – without looking like Joey from Friends

Inspired by our favourite fashion girlies, these layering tips will help you get the ultimate street style look.
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Courtesy of Comedy Central and NBC

Yep, we're back here again. The transitional period between winter and spring tests our patience when it comes to style. Constantly too warm or too cold? Well, it's time to indulge in the art of layering. But how do you pull it off like a street style girlie rather than Joey from that one episode of Friends where he piles on Chandler's whole wardrobe? Well, we've got you covered.

As stylist and writer, Michelle Li writes in her Substack: “Unfortunately, some of the most effortless looks are the most effortful.” She's referring to the importance of trial and error when layering – figuring out which pieces work with others and in what order you should put them on. With the right combination of colour (contrasting or tonal) and fabric (transparent or opaque), even the simplest wardrobe staples can create a statement look. As evident in Michelle's artful approach to layering T-shirts, the visual impact is undeniable.

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A maximalist at heart, Toronto-based content creator Sara Camposarcone has a slightly different approach to layering. She's a total magpie who loves to bring together pieces that kinda shouldn't work but – in her hands – totally do. Although you might feel intimidated by some of her bolder looks, Sara has a knack for layering in a way that builds a tall, statuesque silhouette. Looking at her photos, you might never know she's 5'1''. And it's all because of the way she plays with proportion. What's her method for nailing the layered look, though?

“It’s about creating interest and balance where interest is lacking. For example, drawing attention to a pair of plain black trousers by layering a printed lace skirt over it, or adding a vintage corset over a basic t-shirt. It gives the outfit dimension, and when it’s thought out and well balanced, it rarely looks sloppy.”

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Just like Michelle and Sara, the fashion girlies of Copenhagen are experts in transitional style that finds the balance between looking chic and being functional. The Danish capital and its residents have the recipe for looks that will keep you warm but also challenge the eye – bold accessories, unexpected colour combos and all those other extra flourishes that make the perfect layered look. Just last month, Copenhagen Fashion Week was rife with fun ideas that might inspire us to try new things and put pieces from the opposite sides of the wardrobe into one look.

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Moritz Scholz/Getty Images

To summarise some of those street style lessons, we created an easy-to-follow, step-by-step guide to nailing the layered look, as inspired by our favourite street style moments.

1. Play with proportion

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The first thing to consider when building a transitional layered look is the hems of the individual pieces. Making sure that all the layers end at different parts of your body is key ,as it will help create a harmonious vision of cascading fabrics. Start with pieces with longer hemlines and build towards shorter ones, like stacking a delicious cake. Asymmetric skirts and cropped jackets or knits will help build visual interest as they break up the look into different sections and uncover what's underneath.

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Free People Emery Knitted Bolero

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Desigual Asymmetric Midi Skirt

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Aligne Ed Ashton Cape Short Trench Coat

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Claudie Pierlot Polka Dot Pleated Skirt

2. Built-in layers

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Paul Gonzales/Getty Images

If you grew up during the late 1990s and early noughties, you know these pieces very well. I'm talking about fashion hybrids that create an illusion of layers. Think of the skirt-over-trousers look or the double tee that features a long sleeve with a short-sleeve on top. Contemporary brands have definitely built on these classic shapes by elevating the silhouettes with unexpected fabrics and colour match-ups that look decidedly modern. Also, consider turning your wardrobe staples into multi-layered ones with some easy tricks and something as simple as a turn-up jean can become a key layering partner.

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Fruity Booty Double Layer Long Sleeve Top

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COS Wool Skirt Trousers

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Gimaguas Samm T-Shirt

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Lovers and Friends Amber Midi Skirt


3. Transparency rules

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The art of layering is all about concealing and revealing, so see-through pieces are your best bet. Whether it's lace, tulle or mesh, lightweight fabrics can add a lot of style without enveloping the body or creating bulky shapes. A lace skirt over jeans is always a perennial fave, just make sure to pick pieces that are either tonally similar or totally contrasting. Perhaps you have a sequinned evening dress that you usually wear with a slip dress under it? Although it might seem counterintuitive to embrace transparency during the day, remove the slip and wear it over a pair of wide-legged trousers for that elevated street style effect.

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Free People Lady Lux Layering Top

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Asos Design Sheer Sequin Mesh Knee Length Midi Skirt in Black

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Asos Design Godet Lace Maxi Skirt in Ivory

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Topshop Sheer Double Layer Mock Skirt Trouser in Brown


4. Hurrah for hosiery

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The power of great hosiery is often underestimated. We might consider them a practical element, but why not use them as an opportunity to inject an extra bit of personality into the look? We're currently living through a modern renaissance of hosiery, with lots of emerging brands coming out with unique pieces. Maison Soksi, Lauren Perrin, Heist and Swedish Stockings all have very different approaches to classic socks and tights. So whether it's prints, patterns or low-denier fabrics, make sure your outfit reveals at least a slash of your sock or tight, as an unexpected bonus item. And don't forget the practical side of it, too – warmth is guaranteed.

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Swedish Stockings Rosa Lace Knee-Highs

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Falke Matt Deluxe 20 Den Women Knee-high Socks in Black

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Maison Soksi Astral Tights in Aquamarine & Purple

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Heist Studios Thirty-Five Semi-Opaque Tights in Powder Blue


5. Accessorise to the max

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It's time to bring on the accessories. Start here by cinching the fit with a belt – ideally, one that has a open clasp that doesn't entirely hide what's underneath. And what would a transitional outfit be without a scarf? Go for the extremes and pick either an extra-long skinny scarf or a blanket-style knitted one, for that extra pop of colour. You can also use silk scarves as part of the under-layer by pinning it to your waistband, tucking it into your trouser or tying it around your waist like a beach wrap.

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Bershka Extra-long Striped Scarf in Yellow

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Asos Design Fluffy Knit Scarf With Wool in Cobalt lue

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Free People Rising Sun Hip Belt

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Hobbs Daphne Leather Waist Belt


6. Finishing touch? Legwarmers!

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Whether you're doing it as originally intended or being creative by wearing them on your arms, leg warmers are a great way to finish a transitional outfit. To avoid looking like a 1980s tribute, pick neutral colours and chunky textures which will instantly bring the comfy Copenhagen vibe.

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River Island Cream Knitted Ribbed Leg Warmers

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Move Dance Ivy Knit Leg Warmers

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Swedish Stockings Heidi Leg/Arm Warmer

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Mango Open-toe Socks


And there you have it – your perfectly balanced transitional layering look is now complete. We promise you will look fab, feel warm and – in case the temperatures suddenly go up in the middle of the day – you can easily shed a few layers off. That's the charm of layers – as thoughtfully they were put on, they can easily be taken off to adapt to your surroundings. Honestly, you're ready for anything.