I celebrated my successful kidney transplant with a once-in-a-lifetime trip to the Maldives

“A rare, humbling experience that made me truly appreciate the wonders of the world.”
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Ralf Tooten/Courtesy of Marriott International Maldives

This time last year, I was staring at the same four walls of the Tottenham Hale Dialysis Centre for 12 hours a week, my second kidney transplant had just failed, and the far-flung adventures that I loved and looked forward to so much felt very distant. Fast forward 12 months, following a successful transplant from my incredible donor and brother, Jasper, and there I was gently swinging in a hammock, a passionfruit mocktail in hand, surrounded by the gently rustling palm trees overhead and soft waves folding onto the white sand, and Mum, nose deep in a book (as always), stretched out on a sun lounger beside me. Did I think I could feel luckier? Absolutely not.

At the shiny, new international terminal at Male Airport, we stumbled off the overnight flight only to be greeted by a cheerful JW Marriott representative who took over straightaway. He guided us to the seaplane terminal, managed all the seaplane formalities and ushered us into their private lounge as we waited for our seaplane departure.

The seaplane ride, although an hour-long trip, was a scenic, cinematic welcome to the Maldives and when the JW Marriott Maldives Resort & Spa finally came into view, we spied the staff waving at us from the jetty. We were greeted with chilled towels and glasses of a delicious basil-infused mocktail sourced from their own JW Garden and introduced to our thakuru (personal butler), Zack, who would be available via WhatsApp anytime we needed assistance. His warm, chilled manner set the tone for the days ahead.

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Ralf Tooten/Courtesy of Marriott International Maldives

The resort offers 60 standalone properties, from the famous over-water residences to beach villas. Our duplex beach villa felt like a luxurious family playground. It was a serene, light-filled hideaway that was private, spacious and homely, with two floors, two bedrooms, three bathrooms, an upstairs lounge with an extra sofa bed, and a minibar that felt more like a gourmet pantry. Outside, a private pool tucked into lush greenery led directly onto our own strip of beach, where we rarely saw another soul.

And while the natural beauty is undeniably extraordinary, what struck Mum and me most was the resort’s holistic approach to wellbeing, for both the guests and also that of the island itself. The JW Marriott Maldives & Spa are very proud of its sustainable approach to luxury travel, and its Green Globe certification is a well-deserved accolade.

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Sustainability here isn’t a buzzword; it’s stitched into every detail. Their water purification system alone has eliminated the need for over 100,000 plastic bottles per year, room amenities are environmentally conscious, textiles are sustainably sourced, and even the coffee is served whole-bean to ensure transparency and fairtrade practices, to name a few.

However, the heart of this ethos is the JW Garden, which is a tranquil, earthy haven bursting with herbs, vegetables and tropical fruits which supply the resort's 5 restaurants. My mum, an avid gardener, was obsessed. We were guided through the rows of lemongrass, tamarind, passion fruit, red amaranth and tiny tomatoes, all grown organically by a dedicated team who clearly adore what they do. We joined their Garden to Glass mixology class one evening (mocktails for me!), shaking and sipping concoctions made with botanicals picked moments before, which was the perfect sundowner before dinner.

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Ralf Tooten/Courtesy of Marriott International Maldives

At Hashi & Shio, the resort’s Japanese and fine-dining grill combination, which is famous amongst guests for the seafood and steak offering, being keen vegetarian inclined eaters, Mum and I devoured vegetable tempura and a tofu steak so tender it almost melted. Kaashi, their Thai restaurant, served as a delightful, treetop lunch spot with sweeping views accompanied by fresh noodle bowls, summer rolls and mango sticky rice.

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Ralf Tooten/Courtesy of Marriott International Maldives

At Fiamma, their oceanfront, poolside Italian spot, we floated from pool to table for a faultlessly simple, yet delicious vegetarian pizza and salad burrata. Nothing, however, beat the Maldivian destination dining experience the team created for us one night on the beach. This was a true symphony of local dishes. I lost count of the courses that were continually brought to us, but some standouts include the tuna curry, a spiced pumpkin soup and dips, the green, refreshing salad and a delicious fruit spread, all served under stars with live Maldivian drumming and dancing so contagious that even my usually shy mum got up to join the party.

I also can't forget the breakfast at Aailaa, which I went to bed each night excited to wake up for. There were endless options to suit every palette, and my personal favourites were the dosa station, the omelette station, the yoghurt bar and some of the best pasties I had ever tasted. The culinary experiences were joyful, plentiful, utterly delicious, and so clearly represented the JW Marriott Maldives Resort & Spa’s commitment to celebrating global cultures and local traditions.

Mum and I left each meal feeling genuinely cared for, because the staff always took time to explain dishes, share stories about the food, and check that we felt happy and comfortable. This warmth, constant and uplifting attentiveness, is what makes the JW Marriott Maldives feel different from anywhere else I’ve stayed before.

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“We came for rest. We left with salt in our hair, softer shoulders, and that rare feeling of having truly pressed pause.”

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We were guided to the duplex treatment suite, where our Ultimate Aromatherapy Experience was tailored to our individual needs. The dedicated team had already prepared and tailored a divine coconut oil-based treatment for me, and mum opted for the treatment, which was designed to de-stress the mind. The suite was the ultimate chill zone, equipped with a private cold plunge pool, loungers, a steam room and a shower where you could choose different natural sounds to complement your mood.

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Ralf Tooten/Courtesy of Marriott International Maldives

Next to the spa, is the most picturesque gym I have ever used. As a new and now very keen runner, I found my favourite treadmill spot where all I could see ahead of me was the expansive ocean. Naturally, with yoga being one of my personal, favourite activities too, I gravitated towards the 7 am sunrise yoga class with Arbind, which left me energised, centred and perfectly aligned for a day of more relaxing, but also exploration.

And we most certainly did explore everywhere we could. The Dolphin Quest trip was mine and mum’s number one highlight of our trip. We set out hopeful but mindful that nature is never guaranteed, and then we were suddenly surrounded by hundreds and hundreds of dolphins, leaping and even spinning in every direction we looked. With no land in sight, just our boat and the open ocean, it was one of those rare, humbling experiences that make us truly appreciate the wonders of the world we live in.

Aside from this, the JW Marriott Maldives Resort & Spa has many water sports and diving trips available with their in-house Dive Centre, and snorkels for swimming just off the beach of the resort itself for guests of all ages. Despite not having children myself, I cannot end this review without mentioning The Little Griffin Kids Club. I asked for a tour out of sheer curiosity and left wishing I were seven years old again. A full timetable from morning to night, offering pizza-making, splash sessions in their dedicated kids’ pool (complete with adorable tiny sun loungers), activities at the JW Garden, family yoga, pirate hunts and movie nights would make any adult jealous. Teens also have their own lounge stocked with air hockey, video games and karaoke, which Mum and I took full advantage of with a private ABBA singalong. We have no regrets!

This, I think, is what truly elevates the JW Marriott Maldives Resort & Spa from other Maldives destinations. It doesn’t just welcome every age group; it also inspires and understands them. Children are immersed in experiences that broaden their worlds, parents can finally rest and reconnect, and guests of all ages are given the freedom to share the holiday that speaks to them.

For Mum and me, it was the perfect bonding escape, which was relaxing, nourishing and joyful, made complete, of course, by the unwavering dedication of Zack and the kindness and attention to detail of every staff member.

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A destination rich in culture, history and unspoiled landscapes, with year-round sun to boot.

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