The desert is silent, except for the low hum of a gentle breeze. The setting sun is melting slowly into the horizon, turning the sand beneath me from a fiery orange into a honeyed gold colour. It is smooth and still, except for the footprints I’ve just made, cascading down the dune like silk.
I’m sitting cross-legged on top of a large sand dune in Sharqiya Sands (known until recently as Wahiba Sands), a vast desert in eastern Oman, and I’m struck by how peaceful and untouched it is. In fact, throughout my time in Oman – a five day-long adventure zig-zagging through jagged mountains, trekking to ancient villages and swimming in bright blue waters – this feeling rarely leaves.
It’s unsurprising, considering Oman is still relatively undiscovered as a tourist destination. British tourists flock en masse to its glitzy UAE neighbours, but this corner of the Arabian peninsula receives decidedly less airtime.
But Oman’s increasing hospitality offering signals this may be starting to change. In Sharqiya Sands, luxury tented camps are dotted along the sand, including Desert Nights Camp where I return to after watching the sunset. Here, evenings are spent gazing in wonder at the star-blanketed sky while enjoying a traditional Bedouin feast of shuwa (marinated meats slow-cooked in an underground fire pit), grilled vegetables and fragrant rice, before returning to a tent so plush that to call it ‘camping’ feels insincere. During the day, activities include camel riding, dune bashing, quad bike riding and sandboarding.
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So vast and varied is the Omani landscape that the desert only forms a small chapter of my trip. In the north, the Jebel Akhdar mountains are home to the highest peaks in the Gulf, and the ancient villages carved into its steep limestone crags remain unchanged. The best way to see them is on the Three Village Hike, which takes my group and I on a three-hour loop through the remote settlements of Al Aqur, Al Ayn, and Al Sharega.
We tip-toe along the raised edges of long, narrow streams known as falaj, Oman’s ancient irrigation system used to distribute water to the surrounding villages and crops. Soon, the air is rich with the heady scent of damask rose, as the magenta pink bushes of Al Aqur bloom into sight. The verdant shrubs, punctuated along the rocky terrain, give Jebel Akhdar its nickname of ‘the green mountain’, and its delicate petals are plucked to make the country’s famous rose water, used in perfumery, cooking and medicine.
As we follow the trail snaking along the mountain’s edge, we stop to photograph flocks of white butterflies flitting between pomegranate trees, inquisitive goats poking their heads out of windows, and a 500-year-old settlement carved into the cliffside known as the Suwgra. The scorching heat requires a few pit stops for traditional qahwa; strong, spiced Omani coffee, with sweet, sticky dates. Back at Hotel Indigo Jabal Akhdar, home to the highest altitude rooftop bar in West Asia, it was time for a sun-downer soaking in the staggering mountain views from 2,000 feet above sea level.
Throughout this roadtrip, my guide Ali stops at various rocky river gorges filled with water known as wadis, meaning ‘valley’ in Arabic. These bright blue or green oases are often flanked by white or sandy-hued stone, popular for swimming, hiking and rock climbing. One such stop sees us explore Wadi Bani Khalid, where a lunchtime swim in the pools – where small waterfalls cascade into one another while local families picnic on the stony banks – provides welcome respite from the beaming sun.
Less than a two-hour drive from Wadi Bani Khalid is Sur, Oman’s former capital that was once the epicentre of the country’s maritime trade. I stop to explore the Dhow Factory & Museum, learning about the port city’s role in constructing traditional wooden dhow boats, and how these vessels were once supplied as far as China, India, Iraq and Zanzibar. More recently, Sur has become one of Oman’s most popular beach destinations, and the white-sand shores of Ras Al Jinz are known for their annual green turtle nesting.
As I head north along Oman’s coastal road, I find myself glued to the window of Ali’s truck, eyes fixed on the unspoiled Arabian shoreline. “We have so many beautiful beaches here, over 3,000km of coast, and they’re virtually empty,” Ali tells me. “We don’t see many British tourists here yet, which is a shame because we have a rich culture, history and beautiful nature.” But Ali says the country is “seeing growing interest from self-driving, female solo travellers because of Oman’s reputation for being safe and relaxed, with very welcoming, friendly people.”
Soon, the sandy shores give way to a gleaming cluster of white-washed buildings and twisting minarets, signalling my arrival in the capital city of Muscat. Unlike the perpetual urban development of the Gulf’s megacities, Omani law caps its buildings at just five storeys, meaning its natural beauty and traditional architecture – even in the capital – is unspoiled by garish skyscrapers.
The tallest structure in the region is the 90-metre minaret of the striking Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, which opened in 2001 to celebrate the 30-year reign of Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said. Spend a morning exploring the mosque, undoubtedly one of the most impressive examples of Islamic-Arab architecture in the world, where entrance is free – but note the opening times for non-Muslim visitors of 8.30am to 11am every day except Friday. For those wishing to pray, the mosque is open from 4am to 9.30pm.
Elsewhere in impressive architecture, be sure to pay a visit to the Royal Opera House, opened in 2011 also under the order of Sultan Qaboos, and now Oman's most important hub of musical arts and culture. As the day begins to wind down, pop into the traditional Mutrah Souq – reminiscent of the stall-lined alleyways of north Africa's medinas, but without the tourist crowds – to pick up some affordable spices and delicacies (I came home with various pots of curry powder, saffron and sumac), textiles, perfumes, pottery and silver jewellery.
While in Muscat, make your base The St. Regis Al Mouj Muscat Resort, a relative newcomer to Muscat's luxury hotel scene, opening its doors September 2024. Occupying a stretch of private, sugar-white sand, this is where you can enjoy some relaxing beach time, or partaking in watersports such as paddleboarding and kayaking. In the further pursuit of R&R, make some time to indulge at the hotel's Guerlain spa – a first of its kind in Oman – to try a traditional hammam treatment; the ideal way to end any Omani adventure.
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To book your Oman tour guide, visit afaqtourism.com. To find out more about Oman, visit experienceoman.om.
Rates at The St. Regis Al Mouj Muscat Resort start from £375 per night for a deluxe sea-view room. Rates at Desert Nights Resort start from £155 per night.
