I always knew I wanted my honeymoon to be an adventure. It had to be the type of immersive trip you only make once in a lifetime, a bit like getting married (well, hopefully). My husband and I didn’t want to spend the best part of two weeks doing nothing, even though this is what a majority of couples prefer after the years-long chaos of planning a wedding while still trying to function as a somewhat competent adult. But we wanted to make memories, and plenty of them. The ‘doing nothing’ could wait until we were back home.
We quickly settled on a combination of a safari and beach holiday, which predominantly take place across Africa and the Indian Ocean. As a freelance travel writer, I’d heard Botswana mentioned as the ultimate safari destination frequently over the years. Many tourists often overlook the remote, sparsely populated country for its southerly neighbour, South Africa. But in Botswana, you’re rewarded with secluded, uncrowded wilderness – in fact, on many of our game drives, it was just the two of us (more on this later). In the Okavango Delta, the largest inland delta in the world, the water attracts a dazzling variety of wildlife, from herds of elephants cooling off in the mud to leopards, lions and wild dogs stalking prey in the tall grass. Suffice to say, Botswana was a must.
For the ‘beach’ part of the itinerary, the most popular destinations to visit after Botswana are Mauritius, Mozambique and the Seychelles. My husband and I got engaged in Mauritius in April 2024, and as much as we loved it, we wanted to experience somewhere new. I'd been to the Seychelles years before on a work assignment, so we quickly settled on Mozambique. We also decided to add a few days in Zimbabwe, after realising the Delta's proximity to Victoria Falls. When else were we going to be this close to the largest waterfall in the world?
But packing this all in to two weeks required a lot of planning. So, after seeking advice from Yellow Zebra Safaris, one of the leading African tour operators, we pulled together the below itinerary. If you're thinking of doing a similar trip, bookmark this page and use the below as a guide. You won't regret it – it really was the trip of a lifetime I hoped it would be.
Botswana
We began by flying from London to Johannesburg O.R. Tambo, before boarding our connecting flight to Maun, Botswana. Here, we were collected by a representative from Wilderness, a leading conservation and hospitality company with over 60 camps and lodges across eight African countries. After a 40-minute flight on their private charter airline, Wilderness Air, we arrived at our camp in the Jao Reserve, deep within the Delta's Hunda Island.
With just three tents, this is probably the most intimate safari experience in the Delta. In fact, we were the only guests staying here, so each game drive was completely private, which was a real luxury. All tents have en suite bathrooms with private decks and outdoor showers overlooking the floodplains, while the meandering, wooden platforms make you feel as though you're camping in a treehouse. The main dining area is shaded by a tree canopy, there's a bar for sundowners offering panoramic views of the plains, and a swimming pool deck for cooling off and relaxing between drives.
Our first game drive was late in the afternoon, the smell of African wild sage filling the air, and within minutes we were greeted by huge herds of zebras and wildebeest grazing on the grass, and elephants shaking fruit from marula trees (Botswana is home to the largest population of elephants in the world, so you're pretty much guaranteed to see them on every drive). Later, as the setting sun turned the sky a wash of lilac and fiery orange, we saw a pride of lions with eight-month-old cubs resting in the open plain. The next morning, just 20 minutes into the drive, we spotted a leopard plodding down the track road in the hazy morning light – a sight so striking even our guide, Lucas, pulled out his phone to take a photo.
Then it was on to Chitabe, one of the Delta's best-known areas where the diversity in landscape – from grassy floodplains to dry Kalahari sand – attracts a variety of wildlife. On our way from the airstrip to the camp, we saw a young leopard lying in a fig tree, legs either side of a thick branch, taking a nap in the midday heat.
At camp, our meru-style tent was airy and light, with insulated canvas walls and high ceilings. The private deck opened to horizon-wide views of the plains – there's no better way to spend some time between game drives than watching herds of elephants or giraffes gliding by, or troops of baboons jostling and playing. Sustainability is key, with solar power, eco cooling systems and stringent conservation initiatives.
The food at Chitabe was a particular highlight. On our second day, our guides set up a picnic in the bush, opposite a large foodplain filled with hippos, and we tucked into a buffet of fresh salads, pastas, and succulent fish and meats cooked over a campfire. On our final night, after spending the afternoon watching a clan of hyenas with six-month-old cubs playing outside their den, we were treated to a candlelit honeymoon meal under the stars, where a variety of delicious curries were served on mini stoves and we sipped champagne to the nighttime sounds of the Delta.
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Another safari plane later and we were at our final stop in Botswana, Wilderness King's Pool, which delivers some of the best dry season game viewing in northern Botswana. Situated on the border with Namibia's Caprivi Strip, King's Pool is in an area vital to the seasonal movements of elephant herds, and to the survival of rare roan and sable antelope.
This was probably the most luxurious camp we stayed in. Tucked in a grove of jackalberry trees and completely solar-powered, King's Pool's sprawling deck looks over a large lagoon, where crocodiles and hippos lie in wait and elephants and antelope graze on its banks. Its eight thatch and canvas suites are impressively spacious, with lounges and bedrooms decorated in touches of copper and teal, and a stone-clad bathroom opening onto an outdoor shower and living area overlooking the lagoon.
Lunch was served on our second day in the camp's underground hide, perched right on the water's edge, where we could watch the wildlife up-close from the safety of the hut. We were given a walkie-talkie to radio when we wanted lunch, and plates of fresh fruit and cheeses, salads and pots of fragrant stews were brought to our look-out, as we watched an enormous crocodile glide through the water just feet away from us.
Our final game drive was one of the most memorable. We went in search of endangered African wild dogs – because of habitat loss, disease and hunting, only around 1,300 are believed to remain in Botswana – and eventually came across a pack of 19, their mottled coats bathed in golden light from the slowly setting sun, and followed them from a distance as they set off on a dusk hunt, searching for prey through the dense mupane woodland. We had sundowners overlooking the Linyati River, sipping gin and tonics and proclaiming that the sunsets in Botswana were the most beautiful we'd ever seen.
Zimbabwe
Next, it was time to bid farewell to Botswana and hop over to Zimbabwe. “There are a few ways to get from the Delta to the Falls, but our top recommendation is to take a light aircraft from your final camp in the Delta to Kasane airport,” Olivia Barclay-Hudson, Product Manager at Yellow Zebra Safaris, told me. "From there, you'll hop into a road transfer that takes you through the Kazungula border, where you'll complete formalities and begin the remainder of your journey to Victoria Falls. The drive from Kasane to Vic Falls usually takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on how busy the border is.
“Once you’re in Zimbabwe, the transfer from Vic Falls to your lodge can be anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour, depending on where you're staying,” she added. “Overall a pretty painless and seamless way to get from the Delta to the Falls.”
Set along a nine-mile stretch of the Zambezi river in the 136,000-acre Matetsi Private Reserve, Matetsi Victoria Falls is often voted one of the best hotels in Africa; sometimes the world. The lodge's 18 suites and villas all overlook the Zambezi and come with their own private plunge pool and cushioned banquette, with curious baboons, kudu and bush bucks often popping by. The suites are beautifully decked out in wood carved from native trees, sleek grey stone and contemporary furnishings and art crafted by local artisans. The food was some of the best we had on our honeymoon, from creamy baked eggs at breakfast to buttery hake and squid-ink linguine at dinner, all washed down with excellent coffee or crisp South African wine.
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We spotted lions, buffalo, giraffes and jackals aplenty on game drives, and even partook in a walking safari where we were expertly led through the dense mupane and teak thicket, across the fiery-red sand rich from iron oxide, and stood in awe as a herd of elephants passed us by. We were shown what's known by locals as ‘The Big Tree’, a 1000-1500 year-old baobab tree that stands at a staggering 24 metres tall and 22 metres wide, and were treated to a sunset cruise along the Zambian border, where crocodiles lay in wait along the Zambezi and the sinking sun eventually gave way to an inky night's sky completely blanketed in stars.
But the main reason we were here was to see Victoria Falls. Just 40 minutes from Matetsi, the Falls – or Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning “the smoke that thunders”, to use their proper name – are one of the Seven Natural Wonders Of The World and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stretching around 1.7 kilometres wide and plunging more than 100 metres into the gorge below, the immense curtain of water, powerful spray and thunderous sound really is jaw-dropping. We hiked around the ravine, poncho-clad, and hopped on a helicopter tour to see the falls from above, which I'd highly recommend.
South Africa
Then it was time to travel from the Falls to Vilanculos, a coastal town in Mozambique and the primary gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago. There are no direct flights, so our best bet was to stop over in Johannesburg. The flight from Victoria Falls Airport to O.R. Tambo takes just under two hours via low-cost domestic airlines such as Fastjet and FlySafair.
We checked into The Saxon Hotel Villas & Spa, a sprawling five-star gem located in the leafy suburb of Sandhurst and surrounded by immaculately landscaped gardens. In fact, the Saxon feels more like a contemporary south African mansion than a hotel, with 53 luxury suites, two enormous outdoor pools, a two-level 700-square-metre spa and a restaurant that's often heralded the best fine-dining option in the city, Qunu.
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We quickly hot-footed it to the spa for a Rasul Spa Ritual, an ancient Arabian technique using body exfoliators and mud masks to apply and rinse off under rainforest showers before spending some time in the steam room. This was followed by a glorious 60-minute aromatherapy massage, where bergamot and eucalyptus essential oils lulled me into total relaxation and the tightness in my muscles had almost completely melted by the end.
At dinner, Qunu's exquisite flavours and innovative execution quickly convinced us it will likely be awarded a Michelin star in the future. Stand-out dishes included snow crab and saffron risotto topped with courgette, dill and shellfish oil; linefish with slow-roast onion purée, caviar, fennel and broccoli; and citrus meringue with lemon jelly and lemongrass ice cream.
The Saxon is the kind of hotel you never want to leave – but it was time for the next stop on our south African adventure.
Mozambique
“Getting from Joburg to your beach lodge is pretty easy,” Olivia told me. “The flight from Joburg to Vilanculos departs in the late morning and arrives just before 1pm. From there, most lodges are reachable in under 30 minutes, so you should arrive in time for a relaxing late lunch.”
Which is exactly what we did. During the 10-minute helicopter ride over the dazzling blue waters of the Bazaruto archipelago to our final stop, Kisawa Sanctuary on Benguerra Island, I knew we were in for a treat. But what I didn't know was I was about to check into the best hotel I've undoubtedly ever stayed in.
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Situated across 750 acres on Benguerra's southern tip, Kisawa is an eight-villa private retreat surrounded by sugar-white beaches, rolling sand dunes and casuarina pine forest. Daniel, our butler who was allocated to take care of our every need, told us that many of Kisawa's famous guests – from royalty to the Hollywood elite – don't leave their villas at all during their stay. As soon as we walked up the bamboo boardwalk to our home for the next three nights, we immediately understood why. It was an enormous 570 square-metre beach residence with a private pool lined with sun chairs, and an open-air pavilion for lounging and dining. Following the path up the sand bank, past our own private stretch of beach, we entered the exquisite bedroom and living area, decorated with mottled plaster walls, woven doors and locally-made furnishings and crafts. Floor-to-ceiling windows offered staggering ocean views from every angle, and a giant terrazzo bathtub stood in the bathroom with all-natural jojoba, nutmeg and tamarind products that smelt so good, I asked if I could take them home with me (operations manager Prosper kindly agreed).
Parked outside our villa was a Mini Moke on which to whizz around the property, from the small but well-appointed gym and beachside cocktail bar Baracca, to the frangipani-scented spa for sound healing, hot stone therapy or deep tissue massages. Feasts of zingy salads topped with burrata, melt-in-the-mouth shellfish and grilled skewers were either served at the main restaurant or in our villa, with produce largely sourced from the hotel's network of farmers and fisherman from the Inhambane province.
I spent an unforgettable afternoon diving in the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park's colourful coral reefs, surrounded by dozens of colourful fish and even spotting a turtle. At the Bazaruto Centre for Scientific Studies (BCSS), opened by Kisawa's founder Nina Flohr and home to Africa's only permanent ocean observatory, marine biologist Mario told me about their crucial work in conserving the archipelago's marine ecosystem and protecting its wildlife, including the critically endangered dugong.
For the final two nights of our honeymoon, we decided to spend some time in Vilanculos. Many visitors treat the coastal town simply as a jumping-off point for the archipelago, but to do so is to miss out on the cultural insight and authenticity that the mainland has to offer.
We checked into Saudade, a brand new boutique hotel on the shoreline with six suites with whitewashed walls, thatched roofs, polished concrete floors and rattan lampshades. Our suite opened onto the hotel's palm-fringed garden, where a circular infinity pool overlooked the ocean. Chef Papi whips up excellent food in his small kitchen, like grilled Mozambican prawns and fresh ceviche, plus some of the nicest homemade coconut and mango ice cream I've ever tried.
Saudade owners Mike and Sarah von Hone team up with local tour guides to offer activities including snorkelling at Two Mile Reef, swimming with endangered seahorses alongside local conservationists, dhow sunset cruises, and tuk-tuk tours of the town.
We spent a sun-drenched afternoon exploring Vilanculos market, where the streets buzzed with fishermen bringing their catch straight from the sea, stalls selling local spices, herbs and condiments, and local artists displaying their crafts (including traditional Mozambican capulana fabric, used by local women as skirts, headscarves and baby carriers). We also stopped off at Shop Gallery Daniel Chivale, a roadside stall full of handmade crafts, from woven baskets to capulana bags and purses.
What to pack for your safari-beach honeymoon
- Plan ahead. It's important to check the luggage and weight restrictions of your safari plane before travelling. Most light aircrafts only accept soft luggage, such as a backpack or holdall, and operate very strict weight limits. So, you don't have a choice but to pack light. Luckily, many lodges or camps offer complimentary laundry, so no need to pack a different outfit for each day.
- Layers are key. Your first game drive of the day will be before sunrise, and it can be surprisingly chilly. The key is to wear layers – a jumper over a t-shirt and some light trousers served me well – so you can remove the top layer once the sun comes up.
- Leave your colourful clothes at home. Bright colours can disturb wild animals as they're sensitive to unusual colours. Neutral colours such as khaki, brown, green and beige help you blend into the natural environment on safari. Wearing muted colours also helps avoid attracting insects like tsetse flies and mosquitoes, which are often drawn to bright or dark clothing.
- Practical footwear only. I packed a pair of heeled sandals and only wore them once, for dinner one night in Mozambique. On safari, you'll want to wear comfortable walking shoes or trainers on game drives or walks, and flip-flops or sandals on the beach. Don't waste limited luggage space on shoes you won't wear.
- Pack for rain and sun. The weather will of course depend on what time of year you go, but it's best to pack for every eventuality. A safari hat or standard cap will protect you from the sun on both the safari and at the beach, while a lightweight waterproof jacket or poncho comes in very useful at the Falls (and for rain showers elsewhere).
For help planning your African honeymoon, visit Yellow Zebra Safaris.
