At The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort, a five-star luxury hotel in the Maldives, I relaxed for the first time in months.
It started when I saw the Maldives from above for the first time and counted nearly 50 different shades of blue. I started to daydream about the resort awaiting me below, wondering what to expect from the slithers of sand I could spot below.
The groups of islands in the Maldives are atolls, akin to counties. In each atoll, the national language of Dhivehi and the weather differs slightly, meaning it can rain in one atoll and blue skies in the next – all at the same time. I didn't know what to expect.
I flew into Malé, which looks like an Atlantis city in the middle of the sea. Instantly recognisable and not the paradise-looking island you see advertised – it’s crammed with high-rise buildings and shipping containers with a population of just over a quarter of a million and attached to the airport by one single bridge. However, the islands peppered around the mainland are white sand against turquoise waters and are home to the world’s best resorts. Luckily for me, I found myself at the beautiful sandy blue St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort for a short week of wellness and adventure to remember.
The resort staff personally escorted me from immigration to the seaplane check-in, where our luggage was labelled and weighed, ready for the next leg of the journey to Paradise. A sleek St. Regis branded minivan pulled up; I jumped in and quickly used the complimentary WiFi and much-needed air-con and browsed a drinks menu for when we arrived at their executive lounge within the tiny seaplane airport.
On the way, our dedicated escort, Muud, delights us with a bespoke video message from our butler for the stay, enthusiastically welcoming us. I was introduced to Lina, who made my trip beyond special from start to finish. I was instantly impressed by the attention to detail, and it was the cutest video I've ever seen.
The personalised butler service is something St.Regis hotels and resorts around the world pride themselves on. In the Maldives, each villa enjoys the luxury of a dedicated butler for the entire stay; taking you to and from dinner, picking you up from the beach, refreshing your room whilst you're out… anything really, your wish is their command! Like an all-day-every-day concierge, just for you, it’s utterly unique and the ultimate bespoke and personalised luxury.
Each resort has its own lounge at the seaplane airport; I was offered fresh juices, soft drinks, and even a water menu. Strong coffee and ice-cold water were on order after travelling since midday the previous day.
Seaplanes gather in the port, ready for scenic flights over paradise, to take guests to one of the 1190 Islands. This cost is definitely something to factor in (a round trip will set you back $870 + taxes), with little ones travelling for around half of this. You can also go by boat, which can take up to four times longer than by air.
I was slightly apprehensive about the hour-long journey on this tiny little plane, but it was surprisingly smooth for something so small, seating just 15-20 guests. Once we were up in the air, the views made up for the fear. It’s a mini-mission to reach paradise, but boy, is it worth it.
Stepping off the seaplane and arriving at The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort, we were greeted by an army of waving butlers. Never have I ever felt so excited to be somewhere.
We sit in the lounge that looks like a real-life postcard with a fresh, carved coconut and drink in both the cold coconut water and the stunning shades of blue. After a warm and educational welcome, golf carts pull up to take us to our respective villas.
Now, if you're “doing it for the gram”, the over-water villas are the magic you go to the Maldives for, the instagrammable floating huts with infinity pools to get the classic Maldives shots (in a bikini on the hammock, riding a bike, we all know the ones) but choose a beach villa and you get the best of both worlds; walk out of your front door, straight onto the shore, as crabs roam the white sands and crystal clear waves lap at the edges.
The beach villas are incredibly spacious, very private, and every bit as stunning as the over-water villas, in my humble opinion. On closing my door, I lay on the bed smiling to myself that this gets to be home for a few nights, bucket list – tick!
Maldivian weather is hit or miss, during the monsoon season which is our summer (May-September) it can be a bit ropey in terms of rainfall, but to our surprise, we arrived to blue skies and gleaming sun.
I’d like to say we brought the sun from London, but that would be a lie since we’ve had approximately one whole day of summer this year. The best time to visit is during the high season from the beginning of Jan to the start of May, with far less rainfall and more steady weather to enjoy this honeymoon hotspot.
Experiencing a Maldivian monsoon was a moment in itself, out of nowhere, the heavens open and you're soaked. The locals are well-seasoned in fast reactions when a storm is hitting, they take everything inside at the speed of light to prepare for what’s coming. Regardless of the weather, The Maldives is a place that's beautiful even in the storm, paradise no matter the weather.
For dinner on the island, I was spoilt for choice. For the first evening, I settled on an al fresco, barefoot dinner at Cargo, the resort's Middle Eastern joint, complete with an open kitchen made from old cargo taken from the ruins of the Titanic, where St. Regis’s founder John Jacob Astor 4th, sadly lost his life in 1912, hence the name.
Cargo is a Mediterranean-inspired gem in the centre of the resort’s jungle. A sandy oasis in the middle of sky-high palm trees; incense burns and the space is lit up by the flames from the live kitchen. Think sharing plates of vibrant salads, beautiful gem-coloured tangine, roasted peppers, chargrilled prawns, charred meats and creamy hummus. Lebanese and Egyptian chefs cook up a storm, all on traditional Middle Eastern grills to keep the methods and flavours authentic and true to their roots. Honestly, every dish was delish.
The next morning we meet at Alba (the Italian eatery) and are implored to try traditional Maldivian dishes for breakfast; like the Dosa (Indian crepe), and Mashuni (fresh minced raw tuna mixed with lime, local spices, and spiced Maldivian chilli). I’m more of an eggs and avo girl myself, but I love to be immersed in the culture whenever I visit a new part of the world, so Dosa’s and raw fish for breakfast it was – I’ll try anything once.
Alba is also home to a secret of the Maldives; Decantar, their expansive wine cellar, which houses 820 variants and 7000 bottles of wine ranging from new world to vintage. The oldest being a bottle of 1749 Port Louis, sold for $49,000(+taxes)… Pocket change. Down in this incredible cellar (that’s probably bigger than my home in London), they hold wine tasting, pairing and various exclusive events. Later this year, Francois Labet of Chateau de La Tour and Domaine Pierre Labet is hosting a culinary experience with luxurious wine pairings from Decantar's incredible wine cellar. It also boasts the largest sake collection in the Maldives, with three specialised Sake Sommeliers on site. How's that for exclusive!?
Every restaurant and eatery is a journey, a completely different dining experience, each one as incredible as the next.
The shape and design of the St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort have been thoughtfully and carefully designed to create a place like nowhere else on earth. The stunning spa is inspired by a lobster, the shape modelled on its spines and claws, with each overwater villa a couples massage suite. The Whale Bar is shaped like a beached whale, flowing effortlessly from sea to sand, blending indoors and outdoors in the coolest way.
It's nothing short of a tropical village. Home to six beautiful restaurants, incredible tennis courts, water sports, a gym, and without a doubt, the most beautiful spa in the world.
Walking into the Iridium spa is a jaw-dropping moment, I think one of the girls had to tell me to close my mouth. The pictures and videos you see online don't prepare you for the otherworldly views and shades of blues – I had sensory overload trying to take it all in. The therapist guides us to a giant hydrotherapy pool in the middle of the ocean, which only a picture could explain (see below…), where we take a moment to enjoy the bubbles and sip crafted botanical drinks before our treatments.
After taking it all in we stroll to our massage suites, rose petal foot baths await, and an unparalleled view of the ocean, warming us up for the most sensational massage in paradise. It’s something out of a dream, I couldn’t even build it in my imagination – perfection at its finest. The Iridium treatment menu is vast and unique and instantly piqued my curiosity; from a Ying and Yang couples treatment to a Lava Shell or Kundalini massage, even a “Caroline Astor” facial (using Himalayan poultices, sonic waves, crystal elements and three types of gold to raise the spirit’s vibration into the third eye, and produce a radiant complexion) - I bet you've never had one of those!
The whole experience is sensationally spiritual, I think I’d fly halfway across the world just to be back at Iridium Spa for a day, it was that breathtaking.
The Maldives’ marine life is truly unbeatable, and the resort, along with the locals, are dedicated to keeping it that way, equally committed to doing the utmost to keep the underwater life sacred and safe. They offer a unique “coral adoption” program, where guests can participate in the restoration of coral reefs. Trained divers collect broken coral pieces from the ocean floor and attach them to steel frames, giving them a fresh start to grow and flourish. Experiencing this firsthand was unforgettable—a heartfelt effort to safeguard this breathtaking gem in the Indian Ocean.
Their incredible coral reefs rank seventh largest in the world, home to over 250 coral types and over a thousand species of fish. Snorkelling alongside one of the three resident turtles in these stunning turquoise waters felt like a true bucket-list moment. I had so many magical firsts in the Maldives, and this was one of the best.
Here, nature is thriving, and you are immersed in it. Flying Foxes glide over the pools during the day, and Nocturnal Fruit Bats flutter at night, pollinating as they hop from island to island. Rare Asian Koel birds sing in the mornings, and the adorable Macana, the Maldives’ national bird, roams alongside you as you stroll around the resort – a charming contrast to London’s tube mice and scruffy pigeons.
Speaking of bats, I decided to imitate them and hang them upside down with a fun anti-gravity yoga class. Outside on the decking, our instructor greets us, standing between a curtain of orange hammocks. My first thought was “I’ve seen this before and I’m not sure how I feel about it” and secondly how glad I was that I hadn’t yet had my breakfast Dosa.
An hour later and after hanging upside down in positions I’d never thought I’d see myself in, lots of belly laughs and the feeling that I’d had a good stretch, we were done and it was time to dive into the aquamarine water for a spot of paddle boarding, and kayaking. These are just a couple of the many activities the St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort offer alongside; scuba diving, whale shark and dolphin exploration, parasailing, jet ski adventures, the seabob (if you haven't tried this, you must), flyboarding, wakeboarding, windsurfing, kite surfing - pretty much anything goes. You name it…
As well as these energetic and sporty activities, bespoke relaxation treatments and programmes are available and encouraged on the island. The Ayurvedic wellness offerings are a holistic dream. How does a jet lag massage, targeted acupuncture, or if you’re feeling really fancy, a “Caviar Facial”, sound?
Abhyanga is a revitalising massage with herbal oils, Shirodhara is a treatment whereby warm herbal oil is poured onto the third eye (forehead), and Nasya is a detox therapy targeting the nasal passage, that claims to improve mental clarity, and clear airways. These were among the many things that I’ve never heard of, but sound incredible. Overseen by Dr. Sudhi Suresh, Ayurvedic Physician and Spa Director, treatments on the island follow traditional practices and use herbal oils to promote inner peace, mental clarity and total body relaxation. That’s exactly why we go on vacation isn’t it?
In honour of its impressive 120-year legacy, The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort treated guests to a grand island celebration. It was our last evening, and perfectly timed (so much so, that we wondered if it was arranged for us alone or pure coincidence).
But as it turns out, the famed champagne sabering tradition happens at every St. Regis around the world, from the original New York hotel to the stunning Maldives resort and beyond. It’s an iconic tradition and something they continue to do year in, and year out to honour the esteemed traditions of Caroline Astor, a celebrated leader of fashionable New York society and the visionary behind St. Regis's enduring traditions. Folklore says she was quite the party animal, known for her midnight suppers and exclusive guest lists (famously known as “The Four Hundred”) inviting her VIP guests to toast champagne with the saber arch and party on. The St. Regis continues her legacy with these festivities, keeping Astor's spirit alive with each bottle popped.
After the sabering and countless bottles of free-flowing champagne later, it was time for a toast to 120 years, and a traditional Boduberu performance (Maldives traditional dance), in which I was front and centre to get involved. Dancing barefoot on the beach in the middle of paradise - count me in! The Maldives is a melting pot of different cultures, as people from different parts of the world came here to settle down. Some of the local music and dance resemble African influences, whilst many of the island's crafts and cuisine reflect East and South Asian traditions.
With a background hum of the drums, the energy is electric, with our toes in the sand, and as the sun sets, we dance into the night…
As if just being in the Maldives isn’t enough, there are levels to the high life, and we got a taste of it.
Private Yacht Charter? No problem.
“Norma” is a beautiful, ultra-plush, 250-foot, three-bedroom Yacht that is owned and chartered by the St. Regis. Named after Nourmahal, a luxury yacht owned by John Jacob Astor IV, the iconic, fun-loving founder of St. Regis, Norma reflects the opulent style that the Astor’s embodied. Apparently, she’s one of the most technologically advanced cruisers in the world.
A water taxi pulls up to take us to the big boat, where the GM waits eagerly to meet us, closely followed by trays of Champagne. Sushi is served as we try not to get swept up in the storm. My request for non-alcoholic champagne was accommodated without the blink of an eye. And this wasn’t a last-minute afterthought, the team were aware I didn't drink and they planned to ensure I had just as a beautiful experience as the rest of the group. It’s small touches like this that made the St. Regis stand out from anywhere I’d ever been before. From the moment I arrived, they kept upping the ante and cruising on Norma was just the cherry on top.
If you don’t fancy the seaplane trip back, you can charter Norma for your last day and have her take you back to Male in 4h. Depart in style.
So, where do the A-listers stay?
At the Largest over-water villa in the Maldives, of course. Sometimes for weeks at a time. The resort's pride and joy, the John Jacob Astor Estate, or “JJ” as they casually call it. But this estate is far from casual, it’s complete opulence, 16,500 feet of pure luxury. Taking its architectural inspiration from Origami it’s a sight to behold both from outside and within. A 92 square-metre infinity pool, private gym, cinema room, jacuzzi, plunge pools, walk-in wardrobes, and giant freestanding bathtubs are among some of the world-class amenities you'll find at JJ. There's nothing this suite of dreams doesn't have. It's a palace in paradise with complete privacy, designed for VIP's.
If you want something not so grand but incredibly special and luxe, among the mix of premium villas, are Knickerbocker, Cesar Balsa, and the Caroline Astor Estate, 2 and 3-bedroom villas, that promise sophistication beyond expectation.
The price tags naturally, aren’t casual either, but I’ll let you enquire about that.
Despite the grandeur and luxe, there's a familiarity and calming energy on the resort, with no pressure or expectation, everybody is smiling, minding their business, and always willing to help, it's just beautiful.
Looking for a cheap trip? The St.Regis is not it. But if you’re after pure luxury, bespoke service, and a five-star experience, look no further. I absolutely cannot wait to return (when my budget allows).
The Beach Villas at the St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort start from $2,545 per night.
**For great deals on your next flight or package deal, book with Virgin Atlantic. **
