Uga Riva is the very best place to begin your Sri Lankan adventure

Uga Riva is a five-star boutique hotel, located in Negombo's Kochichikade: a 30-minute drive from Colombo's International Airport. Here, Glamour's Sophie Cockett reflects on her most memorable stay.

In my mind, the crème de la crème of the world’s most luxurious hotels all have one thing in common: you don’t feel like you’re sharing space with anyone but the person you’re travelling with. There could be countless other rooms, filled with countless other people, existing mere feet away from where you’re staying – but only a few hotels will have you feeling as though it’s you, the staff and crickets.

That was the thing I loved most about Uga Riva: Uga Resorts’ seven-bedroom boutique hotel hidden in the leafy suburbs of Sri Lanka’s Negombo. Whether dining, swimming, or pitching up to read my book, it felt more as though I was staying in a private villa than in a hotel. Granted, the number of rooms is modest.

A bird's eye view of Uga Riva, a restored colonial mansion, once visited by Mahatma Gandhi.

The pool area at Uga Riva.

Uga Riva was the first hotel I stayed at – of a total of eight – during my two-and-a-half weeks spent in Sri Lanka. And actually, if you’re following a similar route to the well-trodden path ventured by most first-time visitors to the country, it’ll either be your last or your first, too.

As we did, you’ll likely fly into and out of Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport. This airport – despite what the name might suggest – is actually closer to the resort town of Negombo than the bustling capital city.

Your flight will probably have been long (it can take anytime between 10.5 and 13 hours to fly directly from London to Sri Lanka), and the very last thing you’ll fancy doing is hopping on a busy public bus – or embarking on a three hour drive to the likes of Sigyria or Kandy (common second and third stops in many Sri Lankan tours). More appealing? A night or two at a hotel close to the airport. Somewhere you can acclimatise, get over your jet lag, and experience a wonderful first taste of all there is to come.

Inside one of seven bedrooms at Uga Riva.

Shakir Jamaldeen

That’s where Uga Riva comes in. The five-star hotel is located just a 40-minute drive from the airport, inside a beautifully restored 180-year-old colonial manor. It was the home of a prominent Sri Lankan family, once upon a time; many dignitaries visited during this period, notably Mahatma Gandhi. Since then, it has been lovingly renovated to create the luxury seven-bedroom property that it is today.

While the roads between the airport and Uga Riva may be a little chaotic, the vibe inside could not be more opposite – and from the moment we passed through the property’s gates, I felt relaxed and well-looked-after. Kind and smiling staff lifted our cases from our taxi (we didn’t see them again until they appeared at the bottom of our bed), and bite-sized desserts (alongside cold towels and refreshing iced tea) were served as we checked in beside a lily pool.

The reception courtyard feels bright, airy and open, leading out to a pool: a pool lined by sun loungers, palm trees, and the aforementioned seven bedrooms. Inside our spacious bedroom – stylish but packed with colonial charm – is where the relaxation really began. The centrepiece: a Queen-sized four-poster bed set beneath frilled and elegantly-draped mosquito nets. The fan and tile flooring meant the room felt like a cooling sanctuary from the humid outdoors, and the bathroom was spacious and calming. Fluffy bathrobes, slippers and complimentary toiletries – to be used inside the rainfall shower – made my long-haul flight feel like a distant memory.

This all said, my favourite feature of the room was actually outside of it: a sofa beside a two-person dining table, laid with crisp white linen and silverware at all times of day. Though there are a few tables laid aside the pool bar, should you want to sit a little further from your front door, most guests at the property enjoyed breakfast, lunch and dinner in their own, private little spot.

It was so special: first-class service; the most incredible food a good distance away from any guests. My comment around the world’s best hotels having you feel like it's just you, the staff and crickets? This is exactly the moment I was thinking of.

Every room at Uga Riva has a private dining set-up outside the front door.

Our first meal at Uga Riva was our evening meal; this was our first experience of quite how well the staff here feed you. I can eat, and even I found the portion sizes big. No complaints.

Against the sound of birdsong and the occasional firecracker (locals use them to ward off wild elephants), we enjoyed breads and dips, followed by a refreshing and zesty raw tuna starter, and a platter of Sri Lankan curries and rice. This is a must-order: a total feast, comprised of various curry sauces, meats, condiments, chutneys, seafood and rice. Each one every bit as delicious as the last.

Breakfast was an equally opulent affair, where guests could choose to order up to three courses – normally complimentary pastries, followed by fruits, an egg dish, and a breakfast dessert (pancakes, or the like). Elsewhere, those wishing to really immerse themselves in Sri Lankan culture can pre-order a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast the night before. We didn't do this, but given the experiences that followed for me, I'd imagine egg hoppers to take the limelight.

If you're not yet bored of me speaking about food, note that lunchtimes (if you're at all hungry), are relaxed and served poolside. Expect Poke bowls, salads and fresh fish, served alongside breads, smoothies and refreshingly unique cocktails.

The pool area at Uga Riva.

Unlike many other hotels in Sri Lanka, the best thing to do here is actually just stay put and relax – before the rest of your journey starts. Negombo is more of a resort town than somewhere with lots to do for tourists – often visited solely due to the location of the airport. As such, our only activity outside of the property was a tuktuk tour around the town, which was interesting if a little overwhelming. There's actually nothing else listed on the hotel's website, besides cooking classes, as things to do – but don't let that put you off.

Sri Lanka is among the most magical of countries that you'll visit in your lifetime, with an abundance of activities to keep you busy. Your stay at Uga Riva is just the beginning of your journey; the best order of the day is to decompress and make the most of being waited on, hand-and-foot, in beyond wonderful of surroundings. Uga Riva, a run-of-the-mill airport hotel you are not.

After more Glamour UK travel content? Discover the best hotels in Puglia, the best hotels in Mallorca and the best affordable hotels in the Maldives. For more from GLAMOUR's Senior European Commerce Editor Sophie Cockett, follow her on Instagram @sophiecockettx.