I arrive at Villa d’Este in the early morning in late November, when Lake Como is at its calmest, its waters reflecting the surrounding mountains, villas, and gardens. The property sits directly on the lake, its traditional architecture unchanged for centuries, framed by peaks and meticulously manicured grounds.
Located in Cernobbio, Villa d’Este has long drawn VIPs and celebrities from the worlds of cinema, art, and high society. Over the decades, its guest list has included Alfred Hitchcock, Elizabeth Taylor, Lady Gaga, and George Clooney, cementing its reputation as one of Lake Como’s most sought-after hotels.
Guests return time and again for its effortless blend of history, aristocratic glamour, and lakeside luxury. Villa d’Este began life in 1568 as Villa Garrovo, a lakeside retreat for Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio, designed by architect Pellegrino Pellegrini. In 1815, Princess Caroline of Brunswick made it her residence, bestowing the property with enduring aristocratic charm. By 1873, it had transformed into one of Italy’s most celebrated hotels, a reputation it holds to this day.
The hotel is widely regarded as one of the finest examples of 16th-century architecture in the region, blending history with lived-in elegance across ten hectares of gardens, terraces, and villas. The Mosaic Garden, with its 16th-century nymphaeum and pastel mosaics, is particularly striking, while centuries-old trees, sculptural nods to mythological figures, and carefully preserved works of art punctuate the grounds. Add its floating pool, the first in Como, I might add, sun terraces, and endless lakeside vistas, and Villa d’Este is the picture-perfect vision of Lake Como, capturing its quintessential elegance and enduring charm.
The accommodation is as captivating as the estate itself. The hotel offers 152 individually designed rooms across the Cardinal Building and Queen’s Pavilion, each furnished with antiques, silk drapes, and marble bathrooms. Those who want to feel truly special can opt for the Cardinal Suite, the most exclusive room in the main building.
Guests seeking privacy, a special occasion setting, or space for larger parties can choose from the estate’s collection of villas. Villa Cima, built in 1815 by Caroline of Brunswick, spans three floors, overlooks the lake, and features interiors by Loro Piana with a terrace for alfresco dining. Villa Malakoff is a hilltop retreat with private balconies, while Villa Garrovo sleeps up to 13 guests across six bedrooms with marble bathrooms, a gym, and a hidden garden. Mosaic House, beside the Mosaic Garden, provides a secluded escape ideal for couples or intimate gatherings. The newest addition is Villa Belinzaghi, a former private residence acquired in 2022; it sits adjacent to Villa d’Este, spans two acres of gardens, and includes a private pier and dock.
Dining at Villa d’Este is an experience worth savouring. The Veranda offers fine-dining Italian cuisine with seasonal touches in an elegant setting, where men are expected to don dinner jackets, a charming nod to old-school glamour. For lighter or casual meals, the Grill serves traditional Italian grilled meats and fish, with a weekly Sunday roast curated by Chef Nicola Campanella.
The Sundeck is perfect for light lunches paired with signature cocktails, exclusively for hotel guests. Platano presents a Mediterranean-Japanese fusion menu, blending locally sourced ingredients with Japanese culinary techniques. Meanwhile, the Canova Bar & Lakeside Terrace is famed for its glamorous setting: guests relax on the jasmine-filled terrace beneath chestnut trees, enjoying cocktails and live music. Across all venues, meals are as much about enjoying the views of the lake, gardens, and Baroque architecture as they are about the cuisine.
You’re in Como, so of course the lake beckons. Guests can explore the lake on e‑boats or vintage Vaporina tours, take seaplane excursions, or follow curated itineraries including guided hikes or visits to Teatro Sociale Como. On land, the Sporting Club caters to fitness enthusiasts with indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, squash, and a fully equipped gym.
Lake Como may be a summer destination, but Villa d’Este has embraced the winter season, staying open to establish it as a year-round destination. Visiting in the off-season means you can savour the hotel’s historic grandeur at a slower pace, noticing design details and craftsmanship that might otherwise be missed. In soft winter light, the hidden paths, gardens, and centuries-old architecture take on a cinematic quality, the kind of scene you’d happily frame for Instagram.
Winter is when the property really sparkles. The annual Christmas Lighting gala unveils the hotel’s extraordinary seasonal decorations during a VIP cocktail reception, perfectly complementing Villa d’Este’s Italian Renaissance style and illuminating its extensive gardens and lakeside setting. I enjoyed a variety of seasonal experiences, each infused with the hotel’s signature elegance. Inside the ornate halls of Sala Colonne, the Chocolate Room offers an artisan tasting of haute patisserie, handcrafted chocolates, and sweet creations, including a show-stopping 1kg Panettone.
My takeaway from my time here is that Villa d’Este is meant to be lived in, savoured, and experienced as a destination in its own right, rather than a mere stop on an itinerary. Guests who embrace this approach are rewarded with consistently high standards of service, meticulously maintained facilities, and exceptional dining. For travellers drawn to formality, heritage, and a measured pace, it’s easy to see why Villa d’Este has remained one of Lake Como’s most iconic and enduring hotels for more than 150 years.
Nightly rates at Villa D’Este start from €1,300 for a double classic room, with breakfast included.
