I’m sitting outside a shepherd’s house in the Lattari Mountains, nibbling on bread, cheese, fresh tomatoes, and chestnut honey. A pig circles the table while two border collies half-heartedly try to herd it back to its pen. Below me, the Tyrrhenian Sea stretches endlessly, its blue surface sparkling in the sunlight as the coastline fades towards Capri and the Li Galli islands. Up here, high above the pastel buildings and beaches, the frantic energy of the coast in summer feels like a distant memory.
Famed for its glamour and breathtaking cliffside views, the Amalfi Coast naturally draws crowds. During peak season, visitors flock here in search of a slice of la dolce vita, vying for the perfect photograph as ferries and coaches wind their way through the narrow coastal road, often requiring a careful dance to manoeuvre. Beyond the views, travellers come to experience the history woven through each cliffside village, from ancient cathedrals and centuries-old villas to colourful buildings stacked dramatically along the coast.
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I’ve always been willing to trade perfect weather for fewer crowds, so a visit in early October proved ideal. Flying into Salerno, a newer, quieter alternative to Naples airport, I arrived just after sunset. The drive followed the coastline, winding along cliffs that plunged into the Tyrrhenian Sea. Praiano, where my hotel, Casa Angelina, is located, feels worlds away from its busier, more touristy neighbours. The town is smaller, quieter, and far less commercialised, the kind of place that offers a more authentic, relaxed experience.
I wandered through Praiano’s steep, bougainvillaea-draped lanes, where whitewashed houses seem to cascade down the cliffs. At the town's heart stands the Church of San Gennaro, its colourful majolica-tiled dome visible from almost anywhere. Inside, I was met with an elaborately decorated interior, a well-preserved fresco, and a patterned marble floor so intricate, it looked like a painting beneath my feet, stopping me in my tracks. Throughout Praiano, bursts of contemporary street art on old stone walls and stairways added unexpected flashes of colour, giving the town a creative edge. Small boutiques sold handmade sandals, ceramics, and linen pieces, while locals greeted one another in the street, creating a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere with the sea as the backdrop.
Returning to Casa Angelina after a day of exploring offered a welcome sense of calm. Located between Amalfi and Positano, it offers easy access to the coast while remaining a quiet retreat. Situated above the sea, the hotel resembled a whitewashed mansion in the hills. It's fifteen shades of white, a playful nod to minimalist elegance and a marked contrast to the usual opulence one comes to expect from Italian villas. Open terraces and sweeping views provided a soothing contrast to the busy energy of the coast below.
With just 36 rooms and suites, the hotel manages to feel both intimate and open. Every corner of the hotel, from its curated collection of 87 artworks, including bespoke Murano glass pieces, to the stylish reads in the library, felt deliberate and personal. The design is understated but thoughtful: a discreet reception sets a calm tone from the moment you arrive, and the team is warm and attentive without hovering. I’d wander past the chic bar and open kitchen to Seascape, the hotel’s casual dining restaurant, or settle outside for lunch (because how could you not?) overlooking the pool and the endless blue skies. On the fourth floor, the Michelin-starred Un Piano Nel Cielo offered a different kind of experience with multi-course dinners served against a dramatic backdrop of cliffs.
Days here moved slowly, in the best way, the view so captivating I found myself savouring each quiet moment. I’d stop at the gelato cart out front for something sweet, a playful reminder that luxury isn’t always about excess; it can also be about lightness and joy. Casa Angelina’s beauty lies in that balance: refined yet relaxed, elegant yet unpretentious. Luxury here isn’t loud or showy; it creates a space where all guests feel at ease.
When I finally pulled myself away from my room at Casa Angelina and those to-die-for balcony views, I ventured out to explore. No trip to the Amalfi Coast is complete without the Path of the Gods hike, though your legs might not thank you. With local guide Roberto Mansi leading the way, we set off from Praiano. It’s not for the faint-hearted; roughly 1,900 steps await before you even reach the main trail, making the climb a serious workout. Along the way, we passed the Convent of San Domenico and paused to spot medicinal herbs and wildflowers, adding unexpected lessons and interesting details to the hike.
The most glamorous way to see the Amalfi Coast is undoubtedly from the water, so I was delighted to board Lady Angelina, one of three boats owned by Casa Angelina. The Captain, Giampiero Irace steered us along the coastline, where Positano and Priano looked almost theatrical, their pastel buildings tiny against the cliffs. We stopped for an onboard picnic of local cheese, bread, and fruit, a simple fare made extraordinary by the view, and I couldn’t resist taking the moment to dive into the pristine water for a swim.
It wasn’t all activity; there was also downtime at the hotel. I joined an early morning yoga session with instructor Emanuela Antonelli, letting the sounds of the waves guide the flow. Another evening, I tapped into my creative side during a watercolour painting session with Francesca Testa of Crocevia, attempting to capture the coastline’s ochres and deep blues on paper. As the sun set, the colours of the sky changed before my eyes, transforming the cliffs into something almost dreamlike. Francesca was patient and encouraging, demonstrating each technique as we followed along with our own brushes. I left with a small piece of art, a keepsake of the Amalfi Coast and the slow, golden evening that inspired it.
Casa Angelina offered exactly what I came for: a quiet corner of the Amalfi Coast where I could take it all in and enjoy the region’s beauty without the crowds.
