Avoriaz and Les Arcs are two winter holiday destinations bound to scratch the adrenaline itch of any well-versed skier or snowboarder. Certainly, what with their high-altitude slopes and boarding-friendly terrain parks, the pair are understandably popular with families and après-goers alike. What these resorts don't boast, however, is a sense of wintery comfort, warmth and charm. Excellent off-piste? 3-6 clubbing at La Folie Douce? Check, check. A long-standing family history and a trio of Michelin-starred restaurants? Not so much. Enter, Megève: an enchanting resort with over 100-years of tradition (thanks to the Rothschild family, no less) and a lavish Four Seasons hotel at the centre of it all.
The Four Seasons carries its own prestigious history and, from the Maldives to the renowned Georges V in Paris, the brand promises guests an indulgent spot to relax, rest and entertain in some of the world's most wishlist-worthy locations. This March, I touched down in the Megéve branch to visit FS' ski-in, ski-out hotel - the only one in the village, in fact - as well as Les Chalets Du Mont d'Arbois, a slightly lower trio of FS chalets (around 2 minutes from the main hotel) that were first built for Baroness Noémie de Rothschild. Quaint, classic and with nods to the Rothschilds throughout, Les Chalets opened their doors to me for a spectacular four days and, to say it was an upgrade on my London abode would be quite the understatement.
Upon arrival at Les Chalets, guests are greeted with the grand, ornate facade of Chalet Eve. Adorned with wooden-carved reindeers, warm twinkly lights and a number of fresh pine trees, it's a sight straight out of a Hallmark movie and a remarkable way to kick off a mountain holiday. The entryway leads through to the Bar Mont d'Arbois. It's an inviting spot for pre-dinner drinks or a quick bite to eat and, looking down onto the snow-capped village below, it's decorated with a hybrid of maximalist-alpine style with fur throws and natural materials (leather, wood etc.) on every surface. Fan of a stinky, mountain cheese? Order the Beaufort coquillettes croquettes.
In the rooms it's mountain meets modern with sleek stone worktops in a Scandi-style bathroom, tartan carpeting and a cow-hide bedroom bench set against the crisp, white sheets of the Four Seasons' famed bedding. To sleep under the hotel's sumptuous 350-thread count duvets is to fully understand what a good night's sleep feels like and, with a brimming program of Mont d'Arbois pursuits, culinary delights and some serious unwinding in the spa ahead of me, returning to the promise of undisturbed slumber was the cherry atop the Four Seasons' five-star offering.
Skiing in Megève is often characterised by the locals, or in my case FS' Emilie Pignol, Director of Sales & Marketing, as recreational and beginner/family-friendly. That's not to say that you can't try your hand at a rip-roaring black slope and indeed, my instructor, Karine (a former slalom racer), pointed out a number of challenging runs for the freeride enthuasiast. As for me? A scenic chairlift ride over the nosedive black slopes was enough to satisfy my inner junkie, content instead to traverse the safety of the blue and red runs with my slow-plough in full force. Certainly, the low-altitude peaks at Mont d'Arbois might not be the ticket for your ‘Red Bull’ style athlete - well-acquainted with the likes of base jumping and heli-skiing - but, if a jaunt up the mountain for a hit of adventure, thrill and panoramic powder-covered scenes sounds enticing, Megève could well be the next stop on your bucket list.
To that, I might add that skiing as a guest of the Four Seasons is another realm entirely if you, like me, are used to a morning hike before your session on the slopes, getting to and from the ski shop after a scant breakfast (a stale croissant) at your aparthotel. Indeed, not only will FS organise your ski pass, boots, skis, helmets etc. but they'll warm your boots and gloves overnight to save you the dank feeling of melted snow on the ‘morrow. What's more, they’ll even strap up your boots for you, lest you pull your back out in the olympic sport that is: trying to bend over while in full ski wear. Another perk? The FS ski shop offers guests an array of fruit, snacks, coffee and drinks while they get kitted out each day. It's quite the service, and one my boyfriend regrettably wasn't up to the task of when I optimistically asked him to lace up my Doc Martins upon returning to the UK…
If skiing isn't your bag, you needn't worry. Between the Four Seasons and the village of Megève itself, there's plenty to get stuck in with and, after browsing Hermès, Dior and Armani or stopping for un petit plaisir at Ladurée, you'll have forgotten the slopes entirely. For the outdoorsmen, you can take to the mountains via snow shoe and absorb the quiet calm of the alpine terrain. Equally, for the exercise-averse, there are a plethora of indulgent ways to pass the time at the Four Seasons Megève. Take the spa, for instance; not only will you have the choice of two - one at the main hotel and another at Les Chalets - but you'll be treated to an indoor-outdoor heated pool, a hammam or sauna and a one-way ticket to relaxation with one of the many soothing treatments. Opting for a customised massage, I spent a morning winding down on a heated bed as my therapist worked out all my knots and tension with my oil of choice, the ‘relaxing’ blend. While ‘energising’ and ‘detoxifying’ were also on the menu, after a day of bending ze knees and tearing up the slopes (read: tumbling and pizza-ploughing), relaxing seemed the perfect remedy.
Naturally, I would be doing the Four Seasons a disservice if I didn't declare my love of the hotels' magnificent gastronomic offerings. With a total eight bars and restaurants to feast in, you'll be spoilt for choice come breakfast, lunch and dinnertime. Famished after a morning of shoop shoop shooping on the slopes? Look to L'ideal 1850, a mountain-top restaurant with Mont Blanc as the backdrop and a menu to suit all diets. Seafood, antipasti or a glass of crisp rose (Whispering Angel, of course) - L'ideal have got you covered. Back down at the hotel you'll have the choice of Bar Edmond, the Wine Cellar, Kaito or La Dame de Pic, and Les Chalets offer up traditional French fare with fondue and accoutrements at La Table de Noémie. While Bar Edmond boasts club sandwiches and delectable cocktails in a relaxed and cozy setting, Kaito takes guests away from the mountains for a night in Japan with traditional shoji doors and Wabi-Sabi design influence. Think: Peking duck, delicate sushi and the finest Wagyu beef. The star of the Four Seasons' gourmet dining? La Dame de Pic - Le 1920, a premium offering from Michelin-starred chef, Anne-Sophie Pic. Now in six countries across the globe, Anne-Sophie's establishments are legend among chefs, critics and restauranteurs alike. Not to mention, with a Royal Delegation at the hotel during my visit, I wouldn't be surprised if the family left Megève newly converted Maison Pic fanatics. But who's to know?
As is the ‘best in service’ nature of the Four Seasons, the royal family were given their due privacy. I couldn't even tell you which country they were the reigning monarchs of, though - a titbit to leave you on - a quick Google on Megève reveals a long-standing history with the Belgian royal family…
For more from GLAMOUR UK Commerce Writer Lucy Smith, follow her on Instagram @luceeeeesmith.
After more travel from team GLAMOUR? Browse our reviews of the Four Seasons Hampshire, Provençe's Terre Blanche resort and Rhodes' Ixian Grand all-inclusive
