Terre Blanche fuses the romance of Provence with the sexy ambience of the Côte D'Azur 

It’s a prospect I never considered but after welcoming a baby a year before getting married, I found myself begrudgingly Googling ‘best baby-friendly honeymoons’. If my day-to-day life with an 11-month-old is anything to go by, I envisioned that a far-flung trip to the Maldives with long, rosé-fuelled lunches and margarita-charged dinners would be replaced with nappy changes, broken sleep and arguments with my husband over whose turn it was to soothe the baby at 3am. 

In an attempt to avoid a divorce mere days after tying the knot, we decided to opt for a shorter European minimoon. Enter: Terre Blanche, a 750(!)-acre eco-luxury property fusing the charm, character, and romance of Provence with the sexy ambience of the Côte D'Azur. The hotel owners pride Terre Blanche as being ‘the ultimate family and baby friendly holiday due to its accessible yet exclusive location, array of food offerings and diverse experiences for all ages’. And they’re not bluffing.

I’ve only had a years’ worth of experience of travelling with a baby but I’ve quickly realised that my prerequisites are:

• a sprawling room (ideally with a separate lounge area or bathroom large enough to accommodate a cot)
• excellent air con
• a private terrace or balcony for sunbathing sessions whilst the baby naps
• restaurants that offer baby-friendly food for all ages (i.e. not just chicken nuggets and chips)
• a shaded baby swimming pool
• staff who embrace babies in all their messy, shouty glory

I know this might sound demanding but thankfully Terre Blanche delivers - and then some.

A lot of hotels claim they’re baby-friendly but Terre Blanche makes this apparent as soon as you step through the door. The hotel staff immediately put us at ease by welcoming our 11-month-old with her own teddy bear and colouring book.

The resort has a very special aura. It’s nestled within a sumptuous 3,200 m2 Provençal country house, surrounded by lush gardens, amidst cypress trees, fragrant shrubs and aromatic plants. As we step foot into our suite, we collectively breathed a sigh of relief (possibly high on the delicious waft of rosemary, myrtle and lavender that fill the air). Firstly, it was absolutely huge (to put it into context, the smallest available room is 60 square metres) and secondly, there was a bottle of Whispering Angel waiting for us. Job done.

The room may not be super modern but it has that elusive air of low-key luxury. Expect a super sustainable 100% organic mattress, private terrace facing the hilltop villages of the Pays de Fayence, walk-in closet and spacious marble bathrooms stocked with Fragonard products from nearby Grasse and eco-friendly Unisoap (a French association that collects and recycles hotel soaps to redistribute them to people in need), as well as baby toiletries for our little one.

What’s key for parents with sleeping babies is that there’s room in the walk-in wardrobe to pop the cot and there’s an entrance to the terrace from both the living area and the bedroom so you don’t have to disturb a snoozing babe if you want a nap time sunbathing session or evening room service. If you can keep your baby awake long enough (or fancy popping them in the pram for a danger nap), the hotel’s incredible restaurants are absolutely worth the risk.

preschesmisky

For casual dining, lunch at the golf Clubhouse: Les Caroubiers is the most relaxed and informal (think a purse-friendly set lunch menu with stunning views of hole 18.) Likewise, Le Tousco, the hotel’s summer restaurant next to the infinity pool, is ideal for poolside lunches. On its shady terrace based around a stately Provençal-style fountain, it's perfect for parents and there's an extensive selection of food for little ones (in fact, for kids age 3-12, the adjoining Le Tousco, Le Pitchoun has its own menu specially created by a dietician).

For dinner, we hugely rated Le Gaudina, which has a more relaxed, jazz lounge vibe in the most incredible terrace setting with stunning views of the Provencal countryside. The food is super fresh Mediterranean fare with plenty of local produce (the fish of the day is a must).

If you’re after something a little more gourmet and have a penchant for seasonal tasting menus with exquisite wine pairings, Michelin-star La Faventina is second to none. Chef Christophe Schmitt whips up the most divine Mediterranean fare presented in a wonderfully artistic way courtesy of Touraine ceramist Magali Barraja who has imagined and created the Arts de la Table. We feasted on the freshest oysters served with seaweed crisp, Provencal ravioli complemented with slithers of fresh cucumber and kiwi, jumbo prawns cooked at the table by Chef Christophe Schmitt himself, fruity pigeon breast (so good I can still taste it) and the softest local Goat’s cheese with sensational local honeys. Our baby was treated to the best seabass of her life (we’re concluding this after she polished off the entire filet, which was skillfully deboned for her by a charming waiter). Ultimately, Terre Blanche proves that you don't have to miss out on gourmet dining just because you have a little one in tow.

If you can catch a break from said little one, ditch them for a visit to the resort's impeccable spa (which has won ‘World’s Luxury Golf Resort Spa and Western Europe’s Luxury Hideaway Spa for good reason). The view on arrival is nothing short of breathtaking. With its lavish white pillars, floor-to-ceiling bay windows opening onto the garden and sunshine streaming in through the skylight, the resort's indoor pool is the very definition of opulence; and perfect Instagram fodder. The sprawling spa houses 12 treatment rooms, a 20 metre indoor pool and a relaxation room. I'd suggest spending a good half day here enjoying the KOS Paris and Valmont treatments, facilities and zen garden. Men can get their own back with a morning on one of the two golf courses (the resort has been voted for the third time "Best Golf Resort in Continental Europe 2021" by Golf World (UK)).

Whilst it may feel in the middle of nowhere, no excursion is too complicated to pull off for the concierge at Terre Blanche. Whether you want to explore the higgledy-piggledy hilltop villages in Pays de Fayence, meet the small local producers, go horse riding or take a helicopter to St Tropez for lunch, no request is too demanding. As a self-proclaimed unofficial Whispering Angel ambassador, I couldn't leave without making a trip to Chateau d’Esclans - the home of Whispering Angel and the most magical property. We were lucky enough to be treated to a private visit and tasting with the imitable Director of Communications, Thomas Schreckinger, where you'll learn about Domaines Sacha Lichine’s highly regarded viticulture and wine making practices while taking in the incredible estate, followed by the all-important and very comprehensive tasting of the world-famous pale pink wines. With his acquisition of the Château in 2006, Sacha Lichine’s vision was to create the greatest rosés in the world, igniting the “Rosé Renaissance” - I think it's safe to say ‘job done’. 

A day trip (or overnight stay) to Antibes is well worth your time in the area. There's nowhere as iconic for a spot of lunch than La Plage restaurant at Hôtel Belles Rives. It's where F Scott Fitzgerald stayed on the Riviera and it's still the setting for his masterpiece, ‘Tender is the Night’. From the road, the art deco hotel looks very unassuming but with panoramic views of the coastline and tables right on the water, it has to be the best lunch spot in Juan Les Pins. Name me a better spot to feast on fresh prawns and crusty bread washed down with pale rosé. I'll wait. 

If you want to make a night of it, rest your head at the Cap D'Antibes Beach Hotel, which is ideal for families thanks to its suite-style rooms, private beach and warm outdoor pool. Opt for the Design Suite, which boasts a large private garden which can be accessed via the pathway, making it ideal for room service drop off when your baby is sleeping and you want to dine outside without disturbing them. The hotel is situated in walking distance to the town, which has a plethora of restaurants and bars, as well as a novelty train which takes you to the old town and bustling market.

As we made our way back to Terre Blanche for a final night of R&R, a ‘bon voyage’ note and bag of Provençal lavender was left on our bed as one final touch with the words ‘we hope to see you again soon’ - and I am certain they will.