If, like us, you spend an unknown (and unthinkable) amount of hours scrolling through aesthetic nighttime routines on TikTok, then you'll already likely be aware of one of the big skincare debates that comes up time-after-time: should you moisturise before bed?
Some think that those twilight routines are better suited to cleansing and exfoliating the daily build-up of pore-clogging grime, while others think that skipping a good moisturise before bed is a missed opportunity to really let your skin rehydrate through the night. And unless you have an in-house dermatologist (Kim K, is that you?) or happen to have an in-depth knowledge of skincare yourself, it's likely that you aren't totally convinced on which side of the debate to fall on.
Well, wonder no more, because we took this burning question to someone who does know. Top Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Derrick Phillips. Not only did we ask him whether you should moisturise before bed, we also picked his brain on what to look for in a nighttime moisturiser, what to avoid and his top evening skincare must-knows. You're welcome.
So, should you moisturise before bed?
“During the night your skin engages in an active repair process and renews itself from the stressors it has encountered during the day,” Dr Phillips explains. “This is a critical time for cell turnover, hydration, and regeneration of the skin barrier, and for this reason your nighttime skincare regime is often considered to be the cornerstone of skin health.”
Which, you might have already guessed, means that it's “usually advisable” to moisturise before bed. “This is in order to lock in moisture overnight and support the skin’s natural hydration and repair,” he says. “During the day the skin loses moisture, especially in dry environments, and so ensuring you moisturise before bed will help to counteract and address this, keeping skin plump and supple.”
“Your skin is most receptive to absorbing products at nighttime, and so it allows for optimal penetration of active ingredients contained within your moisturiser. It can also help to regulate oil production, preventing dryness and also oiliness, ensuring the skin barrier remains healthy and helping to reduce the signs of premature ageing.”
“When choosing a bedtime moisturiser, look for ingredients that hydrate, repair and protect,” Dr Phillips tells us.
"Humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin attract water into the skin, while ceramides and cholesterol help to replenish the barrier. Antioxidants like vitamin E can support overnight recovery from oxidative stress, and peptides may assist with skin repair.
“Niacinamide is a helpful addition to calm inflammation and reinforce the barrier.”
He also warns that when it comes to evening moisturisers, it's best to avoid unnecessary fragrances and alcohol-based products. “These can irritate the skin or compromise barrier repair, particularly at night when the skin is more permeable,” he adds.
Don't sleep on thorough cleansing
“Typically I would advise an evening skincare routine which consists of cleansing, in order to remove all the products, pollutants and stressors that have accumulated during the day, including SPF and makeup,” says Dr Phillips.
Apply targeted skincare based on your personal skin concerns
“It’s a good time to apply your targeted treatments for your specific skincare needs, and lastly a moisturiser.”
The evening is an ideal time to apply targeted skincare treatments as, during sleep, the body prioritises cellular repair and regeneration, including the skin. Blood flow to the skin increases, collagen production ramps up, and damaged cells are replaced. This makes your skin more receptive to active ingredients. Basically like when your friend takes you out for a few glasses of wine and a small plates dinner before she asks you to babysit her kids next week.
Prioritise topical products
He reminds us that the key to an effective nighttime skincare regime is the careful selection of topical products which address your specific skincare needs. This will help to support optimal skin regeneration and renewal, ensuring skin looks and feels healthy and rejuvenated by morning.
