While much of London Fashion Week is about the most viral moments, hottest trends and latest labels to lust over for the upcoming season, every now and then a designer makes you stop in your tracks as they serve up a moment, not just a collection. And almost every season that designer is Richard Quinn.
Having staged a perfectly-pitched showcase in tribute to Her Majesty The Queen just one week after her death last September, this season's runway was similarly sombre - but entirely more personal - in mood, as Richard's spring/summer 2024 collection was dedicated to his late father, Patrick James Quinn, who died in June.
“In times of great sadness and loss comes a sense of reflection and calm,” read the show notes, with a handwritten caption printed on the other side saying: “This one’s for you, Dad”.
Five ballet dancers opened the show to a live choir's rendition of Lord of the Dance, in what was a particularly uplifting ‘celebration’ of Patrick's life; “a wonderful father, grandfather, brother and husband.”
As he walked out to accept his applause, a teary-eyed Richard Quinn quietly walked over to embrace his mother who was sitting alongside an empty chair with a framed image of his father.
Accepting his applause as modestly as ever, you could sense the genius designer's overwhelm when the entire room rose to their feet to give him a thoroughly-deserved standing ovation. It was one of those rare moments amidst a packed schedule of back-to-back shows which saw editors continue to applaud long after the designer's exit, when so often they'd be halfway to the next show by that point.
Believe it or not, the official start of winter is only just arriving.
Of course, a mood is quickly squashed if the collection doesn't live up to the showcase surrounding it. After all, that is what we're all there for, and what lasts longer than the moment created to unveil it. Luckily for Richard, his couture-like focus on craftsmanship is yet to disappoint and his vision for SS24 is just as exquisite as we've come to expect.
Here are Richard Quinn's six key trends for next season that are worth getting ahead of…
Sheer dresses are everywhere right now, but while A-listers may be daring to bare at just about every opportunity, Richard Quinn's take is a while lot subtler. Switching the whites and silvers of the current red carpets for a moodier black take with heavy beading, the transparency is a little more obscured therefore rendering it slightly less daunting. Paired with black lingerie and tights - and opera gloves if you're feeling particularly fancy - let this be all the party season inspo you need.
You don't have to tell us twice, but next season it's all about the cuff. The more exaggerated the better, and if you can contrast it with a super cinched section over the wrist then you're scoring full marks. Not only is it the perfect shape as we move into full-sleeve-season, this lace iteration skirting out beneath heavily beaded wrists is the perfect wedding dress silhouette for anyone with winter nuptials on the horizon.
If you've been keeping an eye on this autumn's key trends then you'll know that red is big news. Having been forecasted by everyone from Stella McCartney and Nensi Dojaka to Christopher Kane, Bottega Veneta, The Row, Victoria Beckham, David Koma, Di Petsa, Eudon Choi, Alexander McQueen and Prada, there's no denying that it's the shade of the season. Luckily - for those of us who like a little more than one season's wear out of our wardrobe - Richard Quinn is eyeing it up for spring/summer 2024 too.
While he may not pitch himself as a bridal designer per se, there's no denying Richard Quinn's impact on the world of wedding dress trends. Having dressed a number of brides in his time, his ready-to-wear runways often serve as a stage for some of his most iconic could-be-wedding-dresses. For spring it seems he's all about the dropped-waist bridal moment, and I'd be lying if I said I wasn't keen to re-do my wedding solely to wear this piece.
The bleached brow renaissance may have peaked last year - with everyone from Kim Kardashian to Kendall Jenner, Precious Lee, Lizzo Maisie Williams and just about every beauty influencer on the planet having tried it out - but it seems it'll be back in a big way for spring, if Richard has anything to do with it. Unlike previous seasons, though, where bold eye makeup made up for the lack of brow definition, for next season it's all about keeping everything stripped back. We're talking no brows, glossy skin and barely any eye makeup. We'll let you have a slick of lip balm, though, if you absolutely must.
Another key look for the current season that Richard's forecasting for long-term success (we stan a future-proof trend) is moody blooms. We know, we know, florals for spring, “groundbreaking” etc. etc., but go with us on this. These aren't any old florals. In fact, if anything, these are pretty anti-floral as far as their reputation goes. For a start, there's not a pastel shade in sight. No, this trend is all about blacks, deep greens, bold burgundys and maybe the odd white in there for some stark contrast. Far from ‘cutesy’, florals are getting a much-needed grown-up overhaul - and we're here for it.
For more from Glamour UK's Fashion Editor Charlie Teather, follow her on Instagram @charlieteather.
