London Fashion Week

7 jaw-dropping looks from Richard Quinn's SS23 runway which featured a deeply moving tribute to the Queen

Her Majesty sat front row at his AW18 catwalk.
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While this season was set to host the much-anticipated jubilant return to regular London Fashion Week programming post-pandemic - with all the shows, parties and launches we'd seen litter the seasonal schedules pre-2020 - news of the Queen's death just one week before it was scheduled to kick off initiated a wave of change.

The British Fashion Council held crisis meetings with brands, buyers and press to decide what would be the best course of action. After all, many of the smaller, independent brands rely on this big-budget biannual business opportunity to drive awareness - and, in turn, sales - going forward.

Parties were cancelled and the schedule was entirely re-written to clear Monday's shows in respect of the funeral. But while a small number of designers pulled their shows completely (including Burberry, who hold a royal warrant), others looked for ways to pay tribute to Her Late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II; and none more powerfully so than Richard Quinn. She was, after all, his most high-profile supporter.

Having so memorably attended his autumn/winter 2018 runway show in order to present him with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, Richard knew that he wanted to include a poignant nod to Her Majesty this season. And poignant, it certainly was.

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Opening the show, 22 looks - all black and many of which were veiled - slowly walked the length of the show space against a backdrop of archive footage of the Queen's earlier years playing out on small screens suspended within a central installation. 

It was a haunting, hypnotic culmination of the prior ten days of national mourning, and one which served as a much-needed melancholic moment to close this most unusual of fashion weeks.

Richard Quinn SS23 Show Paid Perfect Tribute To Her Majesty The Queen
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Naturally, the question on everyone's lips was how, in just ten days, was this done? Did Richard not sleep? Were these archival pieces? The intricacy of each one makes it almost impossible to even fathom how you could craft 22 in little over a week. 

According to Vogue, however, nothing is impossible where Richard Quinn is concerned, and each piece was “made by Quinn and his core team of six, and 20 show-time helpers, day and night, in the 10 days since the Queen died”.

It wasn't an exclusively sombre affair, of course, as Richard pumped up the volume - quite literally - within the latter half of his collection; the show that should have been. 

Richard Quinn SS23 Show Paid Perfect Tribute To Her Majesty The Queen
Richard Quinn SS23 Show Paid Perfect Tribute To Her Majesty The Queen

Joining his signature design staples of colourful embellishment and latex tights this season were some particularly avant-garde silhouettes of ballooning shoulders and exaggerated waists, while enormous floral corsages and short capes served to decorate things further.

Richard Quinn SS23 Show Paid Perfect Tribute To Her Majesty The Queen
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A now-familiar Richard Quinn bride closing the show was the perfect final flourish, lifting the collection and offering up a unanimous sense of light and hopefulness amidst the solemnity.

“Richard Quinn dedicates his SS23 collection to Her Majesty the Queen, who touched him among so many others with her grace and kindness” read the show notes simply. We like to think she'd have thought it was all rather spectacular.

For more from Glamour UK's Fashion Editor Charlie Teather, follow her on Instagram @charlieteather.