The boom in LED face masks has meant that red light therapy has entered our beauty vocabulary. But there's still confusion around red light therapy vs LED – what this wizardry is and, more importantly, how both technologies differ.
The first thing to clarify is that red light is a type of LED therapy. So the tiny bulbs in your trusty LED mask are powered by red light-emitting diodes (LED). “LED, including red light, has been available in a professional setting for decades after being discovered by NASA in the 1960s,” says Emily Buckwell, associate director of communications at The Beauty Tech Group, which includes CurrentBody.
Your skin absorbs this light energy – which, in turn, stimulates your cells to act in different ways. It can either produce more collagen or reduce the amount of oil your skin produces in a process that's technically known as photobiomodulation (PBM).
But red light therapy and LED therapy also work in their own distinct and powerful ways. Ahead we demystify both technologies to help you shop smarter when targeting your skin concerns.
What’s the difference between red light and LED light therapy?
The most obvious difference between red light and LED light therapy is the colour spectrum. Red light is, as the name implies, red in colour while other LED lights come in yellow, green, blue and even purple shades. This isn't just for a visually pleasing rainbow effect – the key difference between red light therapy and LED therapy is the wavelength.
Most LED face masks are just powered by red and near infrared light. Others have a variety of coloured LEDs. Without getting too technical, this is because all LED lights have a different wavelength, which means they penetrate the skin at different depths and intensities. In doing so, they address different skin concerns.
For example, near infrared and red light are both longer wavelengths, which means they can reach deeper into the skin's layers to boost collagen production, cell repair and healing. Blue light, on the other hand, works at a more surface level. In doing so, blue light therapy devices registered with the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency may have inflammatory and anti-bacterial effects to help improve breakouts.
Everything you need to know about these skin care devices.
What is red light therapy used to treat?
The most researched LEDs are red and infrared light. “It’s important to note that there are many gold standard, peer-reviewed studies into the popular wavelengths such as red at 633nm and near-infra-red at 830mn," says Emily. "Other wavelengths of light are less well studied but becoming more popular as tech develops.”
Dermatologists generally support that red light helps to boost your skin’s natural plumping and elastin-producing efforts to improve the appearance of fine lines. “LED masks are great for supporting collagen production,” agrees board-certified dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite.
This is because it's is thought that red light energy recharges the ‘battery’ inside skin cells that slows down and becomes less efficient the older we get. One study observed an improvement in fine lines, while another by the National Library of Medicine found that skin elasticity can be significantly improved after eight weeks of consistent use.
What is LED light therapy used to treat?
“While the most prevalent and well studied lights are within the red and near-infrared spectrum, as technologies improve so does understanding of different colours and what they offer,” says Emily. “Green is one of great interest as early studies show it can aid pigmentation and skin brightness.”
Here is a break down of what different LED light frequencies can help with:
| Red Light: | May support collagen and elastin production and improve microcirculation to help reduce the appearance of fine lines |
| NIR (Near InfraRed): | Penetrates deeper than any of the other lights, and may stimulate collagen and elastin production and improve cell turnover. |
| Blue LED: | Blue light therapy devises registered with the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency may have anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effects to help improve breakouts. |
| Yellow LED: | May help to improve the appearance of redness. |
| Green LED: | May help to reduce the appearance of pigmentation. |
Red light therapy vs LED: Which is better?
The question isn't so much, ‘Which is better?’, but rather ‘Which LED light is best for my skin concerns?’. When it comes to both red light and LED, professional treatments “can be much stronger," says Emily who notes that LED panels in clinic cost upwards of £20,000 to purchase – a price point that puts them out of reach for most people. Not to mention they should only be used by a trained professional.
But if you do choose to use an at-home LED device, there is reasonable evidence to suggest they can make a difference if used consistently. “Some masks recommend use for as little as five minutes a day, others require up to 20 minutes,” says Dr Granite, and this 2023 study on red LED light, suggests that red light in particular can improve collagen production and soften the look of wrinkles.
