Patchwork skin is a left-of-centre approach to applying skincare and makeup that's actually one of the most effective ways to lay down a smooth, dewy base. Instead of defaulting to blanket coverage, the face is mapped out and bespoke products are daubed on that play nicely with your individual skin type.
The inspiration for patchworking comes from an unlikely source: a patchwork quilt. It sounds random but, when you think about it, the jagged edges from each piece of fabric are smoothed away so it fits together with the next square. The premise for patchwork skin is the same: strategically apply different skincare and base – serum, moisturiser, foundation, concealer, powder – to the face, then buff away any hard edges to ensure they mesh together with exacting detail. “Patchwork skin is a signature application trick that I’ve used throughout my career,” says makeup artist Lisa Eldridge. “It’s an intuitive way of applying a variety of products and textures to selective areas of the face, then seamlessly melding them together.”
From tinted moisturisers to light-coverage foundations.
Makeup techniques that leave skin feeling nearly bare are only gaining steam. The trouble is, trends promoting glassy, glazed skin such as Hailey Bieber’s infamous ‘glazed donut’ often assume a one-size-fits-all approach and leave those with oily or acne-prone skin out in the cold. Not so with patchworking. It’s still a skin-centric look, but patchworking’s appeal lies in its intelligent and inclusive approach to skin type. “Nobody’s skin, whether you’re dry, oily or combination, is the same all over so taking the patchwork approach to achieving glow and performance is a smart method,” says makeup artist Neil Young of the trend.
In practical terms, the patchwork skin technique is the same whether you have predominantly dry or oily skin. “It’s really just about selecting the right formulas and finishes for your skin type,” says Lisa, adding that those with especially dry skin should embrace formulas that are rich in glycerin and ceramides to create a pillowy, hydrated base for the rest of their makeup.
Likewise, Neil recommends applying an antioxidant serum such as SkinCeuticals C, E, Ferulic Antioxidant Serum all over followed by moisturiser through the centre of the face, which tends to be drier. He also likes to lean on serum-like hybrid foundations, “which are excellent for adding an additional layer of skincare and coverage to the skin but still feel featherlight,” he notes. Good options include Westman Atelier Vital Skincare Complexion Drops, L’Oreal Paris Age Perfect BB Cream SPF50 and Neil’s favourite Armani Luminous Silk Foundation.
The answer to your skincare prayers.
“What dry skin lacks is an internal glow so products that cheat this illusion are essential,” adds Neil. “I love to use MAC Strobe Cream for all-over radiance and then dab the Chanel Balm Essential Multi-Use Glow Stick to the tops of cheekbones and bridge of the nose after foundation.”
And if you're on the oily side? Both Lisa and Neil agree that gel-like serums and creams are a great alternative to heavy moisturisers on shiny patches through the centre of the face where pores also tend to be more prominent. “For oilier skin, I might apply a lightweight, mattifying moisturiser or primer only on the sides of the nose, chin and forehead," says Lisa, who saves brightening serums for around the outside of her face and over her neck. She considers this an “undercoat” before using her fingers to apply her Seamless Skin Foundation, which contains bamboo extract to mop up excess oil. “Buff in foundation only where you need it – for example around the nose and chin to cancel out redness,” Lisa adds. As oily skin tends to need more maintenance during the day, Neil likes to sweep Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Finish Powder onto these areas, too.
When it comes to melting all the layers together use a light touch and a good blending brush. “Everything should appear as if you’re sewing together a patchwork quilt of products but it has to look seamless,” says Lisa, who finishes her base with a touch of concealer under the eyes before going back in with a foundation brush to blend it into the cream highlighter and tap everything into place. “Thin layers are the secret and they should be imperceivable on the skin,” she adds.
