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Once you’ve understood the importance of building a basic skincare routine, the next step is establishing the steps of your day and nighttime skincare routine – and sticking to them. And while there is some crossover in terms of the steps, there are some key differences. Some are easy to understand: you don’t need to use SPF at night for obvious reasons. But it’s also important that your evening regimen differs slightly to support your skin while you sleep.
“Our skin actually operates on a circadian rhythm too, meaning its biological functions change over a 24-hour cycle,” explains Consultant Dermatologist Dr Sidra Khan. “During the day, the skin focuses on protection, defending against UV radiation, pollution and oxidative stress. At night, blood flow to the skin increases, cell turnover and DNA repair are up-regulated, and the barrier is repaired. Using the right ingredients at the right time allows skincare to work with these natural processes rather than against them.”
Our expert’s summary? “At night, the goal is to cleanse, treat and repair. Start with a gentle cleanser to remove sunscreen, make-up and environmental pollutants. Follow with a targeted treatment if needed, such as a retinoid, and finish with a moisturiser to support barrier repair and reduce overnight water loss. A simple, consistent routine is far more effective than an overly complicated one.” With this in mind, we’ve broken down the fundamental steps of a strong yet simple skincare line-up for nighttime – regardless of whether you need to build a routine for dry skin, oily skin, or the best skincare routine for mature skin.
The best step-by-step nighttime skincare routine, approved by a dermatologist:
Step 1: Cleanse
Make no mistake: the best cleanser is so important for a successful evening routine. While double cleansing isn’t required in the mornings – one gentle cleanse is enough – it’s usually a good idea in the evenings, especially if you live in or around a city. Even if you don’t wear makeup, it ensures you get all of the day’s sunscreen, dirt and general grime off your skin. Starting with a completely clean complexion before you apply your other products also means those formulas work as effectively as possible.
As your first step, use something that removes oil-based makeup and SPF well, such as a cleansing balm, cleansing oil, or richer cream cleanser. (For skin that doesn’t get on well with heavier cleansers, micellar water is good for removing makeup.) Then, for your second cleanse, a lighter fluid, creamy or non-stripping foam formula works well. As a general rule, richer and more nourishing textures suit drier skin types well, while more lightweight options are better for oily skin.
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We wouldn’t go as far as to say that the best toner is a controversial product, but opinions do vary around how necessary it is. Some wouldn’t be without it, others think it’s less important. They can be brilliantly beneficial – so if you find one you enjoy using and see benefits from, it’s a nice extra step of the nighttime routine that won’t make it too complicated. A lot of today’s toner offerings fall into one of two categories. Hydrating, sometimes milky toners or essences; or active tonics like liquid exfoliants, like the best BHA toners, or AHA and PHA-based formulas.
When you’re using an exfoliant, wait until your skin is no longer damp before sweeping it across your skin with a (ideally reusable) cotton pad. Hydrating steps, on the other hand, can be extra beneficial when applied to damp skin to help your skin retain and draw in extra moisture. Either sweep across your skin with your cotton round or press it into your skin with your hands.
Another thing: Though it comes down to the exact formulas in question and how sensitive or robust your skin is, it’s sensible to apply exfoliating acids and retinoids on different nights. This will avoid overwhelming it with too many potent actives at once and potentially sensitising it.
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After you’ve thoroughly cleansed your skin and applied your toner, if you’re doing so, next up is serum. These are targeted, often concentrated formulas that get deeper into the skin’s layers than your moisturiser. Think of them as the ‘supercharging’ step of your routine.
The best face serums are also an incredibly broad category, targeting everything from hydration to the visible signs of ageing. Everyone’s skin needs are different, so consider your skin type and goals when you shop. You may choose to apply a retinoid serum every night, or on alternate nights, along with a hydrating, peptide-loaded serum.
If your skin is very sensitive or you’re new to the ingredient, nightly retinoid use may not be a priority, with your focus instead on soothing and restorative formulas. You may apply two targeted options, including a hyaluronic acid serum, or one “all-rounder” formula to keep things simple. Whichever you’re using, the best practice is to apply products from the thinnest to the thickest consistency. You’ll find more on the best serums for nighttime in the FAQs section at the end of this guide.
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Serum
- Best for: A lightweight gel texture.
- Skin type suitable for: All.
- Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
- Cruelty-free? No.
- Fragranced? No.
Why we love it: According to Dr. Lolis, Vichy’s Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum works to improve the skin on two fronts: Hyaluronic acid plumps and smooths, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while Vichy’s signature French volcanic water helps make skin more resilient to environmental stressors that contribute to visible signs of ageing. Over time, the complexion is visibly smoother and healthier-looking. The gel formula is lightweight without feeling sticky or looking too shiny — it simply absorbs into the skin within moments, providing both an immediate burst of hydration as well as long-lasting results.
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For most people, moisturiser is the final step in the nighttime skincare routine. A good moisturiser can do myriad things – deeply hydrate, support the skin barrier, deliver active ingredients, retain moisture and “seal” in the rest of your routine.
The best night creams have been specifically formulated to support the skin and its overnight processes, helping it to retain moisture and sealing in the other steps of your routine. However, many moisturisers can work at nighttime too; check the specific product, but generally they’ll be heavier than your daytime moisturiser. (If you’ve read about overnight face masks, they can sub in as the “moisturiser” step here.)
The only time that your moisturiser would be the penultimate product is if you have very dry skin or simply want to up the nourishment overnight. You can also apply a few drops of the best face oils instead of or over the top as your final step.
Murad Restorative Hydro-Hyaluronic Cream
Murad Restorative Hydro-Hyaluronic Cream
- Consistency: Lightweight cream.
- Skin type: All skin types, especially dry and combination.
- Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, shea butter, sunflower extract, coconut extract.
- Pros: Hydrates skin for up to 24 hours, restores the skin barrier, smooths, plumps, brightens.
- Cons: Nothing of note.
Why we love it: Searching for a hit of hydration? You've found it with this multi-functional staple from Murad. It's powered by Advanced Hydro-Hyaluronic Technology, which is hyaluronic acid at low, medium and high molecular weights to deliver deep hydration to the different layers of the skin, revealing a soft, smooth and supple complexion. Lessening the look of fine lines and wrinkles and uneven texture and tone, this powerhouse works hard to strengthen the skin barrier, reduce water loss and increase your natural radiance.
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Nighttime skincare FAQs, answered:
Why is it important to have a different nighttime skincare routine versus daytime?
As Dr Khan explained earlier, our skin goes through completely different things during the day compared to nighttime. During the day, we’re often out and about, exposed to daylight pollution and other environmental aggressors. The routine is mostly about protecting our skin, as well as topping up and maintaining its moisture levels. Meanwhile at night, the focus is on restoring the skin and supporting it while it repairs itself overnight.
What is the 4-2-4 rule in skincare?
Whether you’ve heard of the 4-2-4 skincare rule and don’t know how it works or are completely new to the phrase, it’s a 10-minute cleansing method that's popular in Korea and Japan. The exact steps can vary slightly, but you first take an oil cleanser and massage it into your skin for four minutes. Then, before rinsing, you massage in a foam or light cream cleanser (on top of the oil cleanser, without rinsing) for two minutes. Finally, you rinse for four minutes with warm water – or two minutes of warm followed by two minutes of cold.
What serum is best for nighttime?
“The evening is ideal for repair-focused actives,” says Dr Khan. “Retinoids are the gold standard, as they stimulate collagen production, normalise cell turnover and improve pigmentation, all processes that naturally peak at night. Peptides, niacinamide and calming or barrier-supportive serums are also well suited to PM use, particularly for skin that’s sensitive or stressed.”
Should I apply vitamin C serums at nighttime?
The best vitamin C serums are one of the most talked-about product categories, famed for their radiance-boosting abilities and antioxidant protection, there is some confusion around whether it should be used in the morning or nighttime.
“Vitamin C is most beneficial in the morning, where it acts as a potent antioxidant and works synergistically with sunscreen to neutralise free radicals generated by UV and pollution,” confirms Dr Khan. “While it can be used at night without harm, its protective benefits are best utilised during the day, allowing nighttime routines to focus on repair and regeneration instead. As always, I recommend keeping routines as simple and targeted as possible.”
| Dr Sidra Khan | A consultant dermatologist based in Glasgow, UK. |
For more from Freelance Beauty Editor Lucy Abbersteen, follow her on Instagram @lucyabbers
