Do LED face masks work? I tried them for two months to find out

Do LED face masks work? It's not an unusual question given more people than ever are prepared to part with serious money to look like robots in the privacy of their bathrooms. In fact, light therapy masks are becoming so popular that the industry is set to be worth £600m globally by 2032.

But does the research around red light therapy devices stack up? And are they worth the money?

LED masks are powered by light-emitting diodes. They look a little like futuristic sheet masks that wrap around your face, except they are typically made from silicone rather than biocellulose, and fitted with tiny bulbs that emit varying wavelengths of light to address different skin concerns.

Your skin absorbs this light energy – and, in turn, it stimulates your skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin or reduce the amount of oil your skin produces in a process known as photobiomodulation (PBM).

Most LED masks emit red light and near-infrared light. Some also have blue, green and yellow lights. To be clear, this spectrum of light does not include UV, so there's no risk of sun damage (and you definitely won't get a tan!).

5 best LED face masks I've tested over the past six years

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By Sophie Cockett

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The claims manufacturers make about the best LED face masks are plentiful - from reducing signs of ageing and the appearance of sun damage to clearing acne scars and aiding with psoriasis and rosacea flare-ups. But does the research around red light therapy devices ensure they stand up to the scrutiny?

Light therapy was first used by Navy seals and athletes for wound healing and reducing inflammation. Since the '90s, medical-grade devices have been used by dermatologists. The most researched LEDs are red and infrared light and dermatologists generally support that this technology helps to boost your skin’s natural plumping and elastin-producing efforts.

“LED masks are great for supporting collagen production,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite. It is thought that red light energy recharges the ‘battery’ inside skin cells that slows down and becomes less efficient the older we get. One study observed an improvement in fine lines, while another by the National Library of Medicine found that skin elasticity can be significantly improved after eight weeks of consistent use.

As well as encouraging skin cells to speed up repair, LED masks are also said to improve blood flow and tissue oxygenation. This boost in hydration and firmness is good news given skin begins to get drier after the age of 30 and gravity colludes with the natural breakdown of collagen, causing skin to start drooping.

However, recent actions by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) has banned a number of adverts for LED face masks that make unauthorised claims that they can improve medical conditions such as rosacea and acne (these devises must be registered with the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency).

Generally-speaking, these are the benefits of different lights in LED face masks:

Despite TikTok's bells and whistles, LED skincare devices are actually underpinned by credible science. The reason it shows promise in the beauty space is because skin is photosensitive by design, so it easily absorbs light energy. But there are some important caveats to note.

The biggest issue to address is that medical-grade LED devices differ from at-home masks and results may vary. Aesthetic doctor Dr Sophie Shotter puts it best in a TikTok video, where she asks if LED face masks are worth the hype?

“It depends because red light, if you're using a clinically researched device, can be so powerful," she says. “But the majority of the at-home devices that people are buying don't stack up to the clinical grade ones. They may use different wavelengths or not enough bulbs so that you don't get enough power emitted. So red light is worth the hype if you can come into clinic once or twice a week to have a proper treatment.”

Of course, no at-home LED device is going to be as powerful as a professional treatment, but Dr Shotter does recommend the Current Body LED Face Mask for DIY use. Dr Granite notes that using an at-home LED mask regularly can have cumulative effects: “LED masks are generally safe to use everyday; in fact, consistency yields the best results. Some recommend use for as little as five minutes a day, others require up to 20 minutes.”

Another point to note is that LED masks are not a miracle cure for deep wrinkles so you need to have realistic expectations. A recent study also found that more clinical research needs to be done into PBM.

I’m what you might call a beauty gadget super stan, using microcurrent devices every morning and a sound wave device before bed. But last year, an LED light face mask replaced everything bar my skincare, and I've been genuinely surprised by how much it has tuned up my complexion ever since.

After two months of testing various devices, my moisturisers and face serums no longer seem fit for purpose when used alone. And yes, that's a pretty bold statement for a beauty editor to make.

I really rated the CurrentBody LED Face Mask Series 2, which we've written a full review of elsewhere on site. Every bulb in this mask emits the exact wavelengths of light proven for results (red (633nm), near-infrared (830nm) and deep near-infrared (1072nm)), and I found the mask to cover the entirety of my face. The lights reach crows feet and your chin, which can't be said for all models.

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FAQ™ 202 Near Infrared & Red Light Therapy LED Face Mask

£719 £503 (30% off)

LookFantastic

£719 £630 (12% off)

Amazon

FAQ™ 202 Near Infrared & Red Light Therapy LED Face Mask

• Number of LEDs: “600 points of light” across the mask.
• Light modes: 8 wavelengths of light.
• Treatment time: Varies – from five minutes.
• Wireless? Yes.
• Countdown timer? No, but it does auto shut-off.
• Tested by: Mayola Fernandes.

Why Glamour loves it: "At this point, we are well aware of the fact that most LED face masks offer something very similar. LED wavelengths that tackle everything from wrinkles and pigmentation to blemishes and dullness. But there are two things that we loved about this mask – which promises to reduce wrinkles but 32% in just two weeks – in particular.

“First, the fact that it offers really even coverage across the skin. There are 600 optimised points of light, which ensures the LED wavelengths evenly penetrate each millimetre of skin. Secondly, it's ultra-lightweight and wireless, which means it's one of the most comfortable to move around in while continuing with your day. Sure, the open eye and mouth design means you don't get coverage across your lips and down the bridge of your nose – but if comfort is key for you, this mask scores highly.”

UKSKIN LED Dual Light Pro-Therapy Face Mask

£199

Sephora

£199

Boots

I also tried The Light Salon Boost LED Mask, a good entry-level device and a best-seller at Selfridges. The only trouble is, because I have quite sensitive eyes, I found the light too bright and had to lie down with them shut for 10 minutes every time I strapped myself into the mask.

There was the Dennis Gross DRX Spectralite Eyecare Max Pro, too, which looks like light-emitting VR goggles. Pre-programmed for just three minutes, it was simple to use and I found it incredibly soothing after a day staring at a computer screen. But I couldn't quieten the niggling voice telling me that the rest of my face was missing out.

Then I was sent the Foreo FAQ 201 LED Mask, which boasts 8 different wavelengths and 600 light points, and it fast became my favourite of the bunch.

When I unpacked the Foreo mask, my first thought was that sticking my face in it would be the beauty equivalent of pouring jello into a mould. But it was actually deceptively comfortable on – an adjustable strap kept it secure at the back of my head, it was fairly lightweight and cupped my facial contours so I could sit upright on the sofa while it got to work.

Another big design draw was the liberally-sized cut-out for your eyes, meaning I could comfortably watch TV as the light was never too close or too bright. The app also allows you to create bespoke treatments according to your skin woes on any given day. I mostly programmed the mask to emit a combination of red and near-Infrared light to help soften wrinkles, and green light as I have some post-summer pigmentation on the tops of my cheeks.

But back to that not-so-small issue of price. LED masks typically cost upwards of £150, which is a lot of money, but just think what you spent on your last facial. If you choose a clinically-tested LED mask, which comes with the convenience of using it at home and in between facials to boost the effects, then it may be worth considering.

I found it easy to slip an LED mask into my skincare routine but also, more importantly, to commit to using it regularly a couple of nights a week. I intend to continue doing just that, as I feel light energy actually improves the behaviour of my skin cells rather than just targeting the surface of my face.

After two months, the lines on my forehead look softer and the skincare I apply directly after using the mask absorbs better (here's hoping that those re-energised cells are also putting the ingredients to better use, too). Even friends have asked me what I've had 'done', assuming my new-found glow is the result of pricey injectables. That's probably all the proof I need that my LED mask works.