Japanese brands across most industries, from interiors to food, are known for their innovation and craftsmanship, and it's certainly no different when it comes to Japanese fashion. Ask any fashion insider and they will likely wax lyrical about Rei Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market and her contribution to the industry, or speak effusively about a piece of vintage Issey Miyake they own. Such is the enduring legacy of these Japanese clothing brands that have not only permeated the global fashion industry but also changed the way designers today perceive clothing's form and function.
Several of the Japanese clothing brands, like Sacai and Yohji Yamamoto, are known for exploding traditional silhouettes, favouring balloon shapes or spliced-and-diced tailoring, while others like Ambush or Aura Lee look to menswear for their edgy-sleek aesthetic.
In a time when Instagram and TikTok algorithms offer up a very uniform outlook on fashion, insiders are once again turning to Japanese fashion brands for unique styles that stand the test of time, be it a cocooning black coat or pleated skirt. Many of these brands have been around for decades—Issey Miyake for instance, celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2020—and their meticulously designed, high-quality clothes are more relevant now than ever as circular and vintage fashion gains even more momentum.
Whether you're already a fan of Japanese apparel brands and are looking for a little refresher or are new to the scene (welcome!), take a look at the 9 labels we love below.
1. Comme des Garcons
Every list about Japanese fashion should arguably start with Comme des Garcons (CDG). Its enigmatic founder, Rei Kawakubo is a legend in her own right, and her avant-garde designs changed perceptions in fashion not just in Japan but around the world. Rei started CDG in 1969, a grungy, punk label that favoured distressed fabrics and ragged seams that challenged the polished fashion norms at the time but has since come to be acknowledged and revered for its pioneering aesthetic. Her boundary-pushing designs have gone on to inspire designers from John Galliano to Martin Margiela.
2. Kei Nonomiya
Hailing from the same prestigious alma mater as Dries van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, Kei Ninomiya went on to work for legendary Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo as a patternmaker after graduating from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts. He soon adopted black as his sole palette, creating a monochromatic womenswear label Noir by Kei Nonomiya in 2012 and debuting on the world stage at Paris Fashion Week in 2019. From there, his cult following has led him to partner with global brands like Reebok and Moncler who embraced his outlandish designs and avant-garde take on woven materials. Don't worry, Kei also designs with plenty of colour now.
2. Sacai
Oversized jackets and giant peplum shapes might feel ubiquitous now, but when Chitose Abe of Sacai began her label in 1999, skinny silhouettes still reigned supreme. A breath of fresh air, fashion luminaries quickly fell in love with Chitose's deft manipulation of silhouettes, a skill she honed working under Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe. Sacai has become a Paris Fashion Week staple since 2009 and has collaborated with brands like Nike and Beats by Dre.
4. Junya Watanabe
Another disciple of Rei Kawakubo, Junya began his career designing for Comme des Garcons before launching his own label in 1992. Becoming a full-fledged fashion house in his own right, his outré designs, dramatic draping and use of technical materials have garnered him a cult following. Converse and Puma are amongst the global brands who have tapped his technical prowess for their exclusive shoe collabs.
The sneaks of the summer?
5. Issey Miyake
Every serious fashion lover likely owns or has owned something from Issey Miyake's Pleats Please line. Light as air, wrinkle-proof and available in every colour, the asymmetric pieces are a fashionphile's secret weapon for looking chic on every occasion. The designer's work with pleating began in the 1980s as he experimented with innovative ways of garment pressing but his extensive body of work includes the world-renowned fragrance L'Eau d'Issey and Steve Job's iconic black turtleneck.
6. AMBUSH
What started as a cult jewellery brand beloved by A-listers and musicians like Kanye West and Rihanna turned into a full ready-to-wear line as founder Yoon Ahn looked to style her jewellery with her own gender-fluid aesthetic. Yoon started her career designing album covers for Japanese rapper Verbal, but her eye for accessories led her to start Ambush in 2006 and later become the creative director of Dior Men jewellery under Kim Jones.
7. Yohji Yamamoto
Looking at a piece of Yohji Yamamoto's clothing is like looking at art. A feeling hits you before your eyes can land on any given point on his often all-black garments thanks to the complex draping and deconstructed layers he's become known for. In addition to his sportier sub-label Y's, Yohji Yamamoto has become a global brand and the designer is known as one of the world's best tailors alongside couture legends like Madeleine Vionnet.
8. Onitsuka Tiger
You've likely seen plenty of Onitsuka Tiger's trainers on the streets, sprinkled between Adidas Sambas and New Balance kicks. The brand, founded in 1949 by Khachiro Onitsuka started selling sandals and basketball shoes, before a partnership with marathon runner Toru Terasawa led to the now-famous long-distance running styles. The Mexico 66 line is by and far its most popular, counting Hailey Bieber and Kaia Gerber as fans. This year, Onitsuka Tiger has partnered with rebranded French fashion house Patou for a limited collection of pink trainers, and sporty ready-to-wear pieces.
9. Auralee
One of the buzziest Japanese clothing brands to emerge from the country in the last year is Auralee, a slow fashion label founded by Tokyo's Bunka Fashion College graduate Ryota Iwai. What began as a menswear label filled with sleek silhouettes and tasteful fabrication has expanded into soft, tailored womenswear pieces with refined timelessness at its core. As one of Japan's rising fashion stars now stocked at Ssense and End Clothing, we can't wait to see what Ryota does next.
