We'll show you how to wear culottes in winter, but first: a history lesson.
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Did you know the history of culottes is linked to class struggle and female liberation? What we know today as a swishy, skirt-like, cropped trouser actually has quite a nebulous definition, as it's been used to describe different garments over time. From the late Middle Ages until the early 1800s, culottes were the knee breeches worn by men from the European aristocracy and upper classes. They were so associated with money that, at the time of the French Revolution, revolutionaries of the lower classes were known as “sans-culottes” due to their long trousers. But, if you're reading this, you're probably more interested in the feminist history of the garment.
During the Victorian era, split skirts came into use for women for the purpose of horseback riding. (Since trousers for women up until this point were quite scandalous, and in some instances, illegal!) Quite literally skirts split in half, their legs were made up of flowing fabric, a precursor to today's culottes. The point was that it looked like a skirt, but allowed women more flexibility of movement, particularly when sitting on horseback. The garment was adapted for other activities like cycling, gardening and cleaning, but was not yet mainstream.
In the 1910s, the jupe-culotte (literally meaning skirt-pant in French) was associated with women's suffrage. In 1911, the doctor and feminist Madeleine Pelletier was quoted in a Vogue article titled The Distracting Jupe-Culotte saying: “Liberty of movement is conducive to liberty of thought.” We also can't leave out the contribution of Paul Poiret: while his harem pants are slightly different to the culottes we know today, it was one of the first times women in Europe wore trousers as a fashionable garment. Trousers for women also became a bit of a necessity due to the First World War, when women filled the gap in the workforce left by conscripted men.
Then, in the '20s, the hedonistic flapper mood brought with it a relatively more free attitude to fashion and gender, so it only made sense that culottes grew in popularity as a fashionable garment. Fashion designer Coco Chanel was particularly fond of them, often wearing flowy trousers known as “beach pyjamas” from the late 1910s. Elsa Schiaparelli, another seminal fashion designer of the era, dressed tennis player Lilí Álvarez in culottes in 1931 for Wimbledon, which caused some pearl-clutching at the time.
As the decades progressed, trousers for women became less of a shock and more a normal part of the female wardrobe – due to factors like wartime pragmatism in the 40s and the cultural revolution of the 60s. Fast forward to today, where culottes on women would not raise an eyebrow in the slightest. (Perhaps they're even something your mum or grandma might wear!)
Culottes are a great way to add movement to your outfit, while being just as practical as traditional trousers – makes sense, considering their history. So, how to wear culottes in winter? As Chanel showed us 100 years ago, they look great in the summer on the French Riviera – but rest assured that they can be styled for the colder months, too.
Ahead, how to wear culottes in winter.
With patterned or colourful tights
If you're someone who doesn't want even a sliver of flesh exposed to the elements in winter (and we don't blame you) we'd recommend a pair of tights underneath the trousers to offer you some extra protection. Black, opaque, high denier tights are a classic, but you can do better than that. One of the stand-out trends of this year and expected to get even more popular: colourful tights.
Whether patterned (we've seen lace, hearts, check, animal print and even trompe l'oeil stockings) or in statement colours like red, purple and yellow, loud tights have been everywhere. Lacy fishnet tights are not exactly winter-friendly, so feel free to double up with a flesh-coloured pair underneath.
With a chunky jumper
No winter style guide would be complete without a chunky knit. Due to their voluminous silhouette, it might be tempting to style culottes with something form-fitting on top, like a tight turtleneck. While that certainly has its merits, you can rest assured that a slouchy, thick jumper is just as much of a style win. The looseness of the garments creates a chic, unbothered air. Punctuate with strong accessories for a complete look – and maybe even tuck your hair into the collar if you're brave, a la Phoebe Philo or the Olsen twins.
With a short jacket
With volume on the bottom created by the billowy legs, you might want to go for something a little cropped on top. This can be achieved via a cropped trench coat (since we're firmly out of the season for midriff-bearing tops!). A cinched belt gives some shape to the outfit, while a funnel neck offers both warmth and a high fashion touch.
If you're into the fine details, match the jacket with a jumper underneath in a similar hue, slightly longer so that it pokes out a little. Layering is in at the moment, so this is practical and fashionable.
With boots
If you want to stay warm in the winter with cropped trousers, there's an obvious choice: winter boots. A knee-high boot means that no skin will be exposed to the cold winter air, but it's also an incredibly stylish combo. Playing around with silhouettes has been a feature of fashion recently, evidenced by the popularity of bubble skirts, capes and powerful shoulders – not to mention abstract shapes on the runway from brands like Jean Paul Gaultier and Alaïa. So, now is the time to have fun with it.
With a wool coat
A wool coat is a very sensible choice for winter, and it also looks great with culottes. Matching different fabrics together is always a cheat code to creating some visual excitement. If your trousers and coat are in neutral shades, like the ones above, perhaps go for a vibrant bag to add a pop of colour. Swap the ballet pumps out for some winter-appropriate shoes, and you're ready to go.
With a suede jacket
Suede is undeniably one of the most popular fabrics of the year, and it's not losing steam for winter. You can opt for a slouchy suede jacket like the example above, or something more fitted – it's really up to you. For extra touches, go for heeled boots, a clutch, a wooly hat and a jumper casually draped around the shoulders.
With a blazer
Most of these looks would work quite well for the office, but if you really want to go for corporate chic, why not pair your culottes with a blazer? The flowing fabric of the trousers contrasts beautifully with the more structured suit jacket. Pair with a thin sweater underneath, plus some shoes and accessories of your choice – there's no going wrong with this formula, so it's really up to your personal taste! For the most fun-loving of fashion disciples, layering a lacy blouse underneath the sweater brings more depth to the outfit and taps into the recent trend for lingerie.
With a hoodie
Who says hoodies are just for lazy days? This outfit combo sits at the intersection of comfort and style. A cohesive colour palette will work in your favour to make the outfit look more put-together, like the one above: mostly black with pops of white. While the garments keep you cosy, elevate the outfit with cool accessories: an it-bag, trendy trainers or statement glasses. (Or all three!)
With a leather jacket
While suede has been the star of the show this year, leather jackets will never go out of style. As mentioned above, playing with different textures is a sure way to create an outfit with interest. To make the outfit more winter-friendly, opt for a turtleneck underneath the jacket – in black if you want to go full Matrix, or a contrasting shade like white. Black leather boots will complete the look, creating an effect that's powerful and slightly intimidating – which isn't a bad thing.
READ MORE: How to style a leather jacket.
