If you've been online in the past year, you might have noticed the rise of this military-style jacket. But it's not soldiers or members of a marching band that are sporting them: they're being worn by the most stylish women around.
What was originally worn by Hussar regiments in the Napoleonic wars has developed a close association with music over the decades. In the late ‘60s, musicians like The Beatles and Jimi Hendrix adopted the style. In the ’00s, bands like My Chemical Romance and The Libertines picked up the mantle. Cheryl Cole wore one, aptly, for her ‘Fight For This Love’ music video in 2009. But probably the most famous lover of this jacket in pop culture is Michael Jackson.
Perhaps this pop culture soup is what designer Christophe Decarnin had in mind when he designed his version of the jacket for the house of Balmain in the early 2010s. From there, the style conquered high fashion and was seen on the likes of Rihanna and Beyoncé. (The Balmain version even ended up back on Michael Jackson, creating a fashion full circle.)
So, here's how to style a military jacket if you want to look more like Kate Moss at Glastonbury 2005, and less like a musician in uniform.
With a denim mini skirt
Back in September, Jenna Ortega proved that this trend is for the hot girls while attending the Dior show. Sure, the aviator sunglasses are rather Michael Jackson-coded, but the denim mini skirt and pointy black pumps inject the outfit with some glam sexiness. Jenna sports the sleeveless version, but the look would be just as successful with long sleeves.
With low-rise jeans
Actor Jodie Turner-Smith wore a version of the jacket by Georgian designer George Keburia. Attending the Victoria's Secret show after-party, she paired it with low-rise baggy jeans, a tank top, and a chainmail bag. Since the jacket itself is such a statement, pairing it with low-key basics is a good idea. Wide-leg jeans (as opposed to skinny ones) keep the look firmly out of indie sleaze boy band territory. Not that there's anything wrong with that, if you're going for that style!
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With a lacy skirt
Mixing feminine and masculine-coded garments has always been a style winner. In this case, the regimented masculinity of the jacket pairs beautifully with the romance of a lacy skirt. If you pick a jacket with particularly sumptuous embroidery (like the vintage McQueen version above), this styling option will be even more successful.
With a bubble skirt
Now, for some fun. The subsequent entries are for only the most dedicated followers of fashion and might earn you a few stares in public. Designer George Keburia's recent London show gave us a few ideas for how to style a military jacket, but the most compelling is with a bubble skirt! As mentioned above, juxtaposing masculinity and femininity is a cheat code to creating visual tension. The bubble skirt, another recent trend which brings to mind '80s excess and frou-frou, meets its match with the structured military jacket.
With hot pants
London-based fashion designer Laura Andraschko was one of the first to arrive on the scene in this current iteration of the trend. Her 2022 collection featured the military jacket in a hybridised, jumpsuit form. While you might be hard-pressed to find this exact garment, let the silhouette inspire you: hot pants would give a similar shape and the same late 00s party girl attitude. Pair with black tights underneath to really come for Kate Moss' indie sleaze crown.
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Commit to the bit!
As evidenced by style influencer Hodan Yousuf, sometimes to make it work, you really have to go all in! In one look, she paired the jacket with camo military trousers, mixing two styles of army uniform. In another, she emulated another form of military dressing, with a kilt-like skirt, combat boot-esque shoes and an infantry-style hat.
