Our skincare routines are a crowded party, which means that we often slather a heavy face cream under our lash lines. But how to apply eye cream properly is important, whether you want to soothe away dark circles or smooth crepey skin.
“The skin under the eyes is the thinnest in your body and has fewer oil glands compared to other areas of the face,” says plastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor, Dr Ash Soni. Not to mention we reportedly blink over 28,000 times a day – all of which, means the skin under our eyes shamelessly broadcasts fine lines, dehydration and a bad night's sleep.
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Not only will your regular moisturiser not cut it when addressing these issues – it may actually make the look of puffiness and dark circles worse. There is also a correct way for how to apply eye cream, say experts, which we deep-dive into below. So if you're unsure whether to pat, tap or massage, keep scrolling…
Why do you need an eye cream?
“The skincare you apply under the eyes shouldn't just hydrate,” says Dr Soni. Enter: science-backed eye creams, which are tailored to address the different concerns of under-eye skin (also know as periorbital skin) compared to the rest of the face, he adds.
“Most eye creams will also have innovative ingredients to help with the other concerns that are associated with the under eyes, such as dark circles and puffiness,” he says.
What is the correct way to apply eye cream?
**Apply after cleansing, toning and serum – but before moisturiser and SPF. **
“The texture of an eye cream is likely thinner than your moisturiser so it may not absorb as well if you apply it over the top," says aesthetician and founder of KMP Skin, Katharine Mackenzie Paterson.
Use a grain-of-rice-sized amount and tap
“Apply a grain-of-rice-sized amount of eye cream to your ring finger and work around your orbital bone (the bone around the eye) with light taping motions,” says Katharine. “Avoid applying the cream too close to the moveable parts of the eyelid and under the eye as it can creep in and cause irritation.” And above all, don't rub!
Let it sink in
To avoid product pilling, wait at least 60 seconds for your eye cream to absorb before sweeping concealer under your eyes.
How to apply eye cream for dark circles?
Not only is a cooling gel or steal-tipped applicator sensorially pleasing, it immediately soothes puffy eyes in the mornings. When it comes to the formula, caffeine is a must-have for helping to drain away excess fluid but Dr Soni also recommends “peptides that are specifically created to reduce dark circles and antioxidants – specifically vitamins C and E – which will help to brighten the area.”
How to apply eye cream for wrinkles?
Overnight, you can really zero in on softening the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles. Look for formulas powered by peptides, hyaluronic acid and amino acids that are designed to boost elastin and collagen – the springs and stuffing – of the skin, notes Dr Soni.
Is retinol good for under eyes?
The short answer is yes, as retinol stimulates collagen production, which increases skin firmness and improves the look of fine lines. But there is a caveat: It's best to use an eye cream laced with retinol to treat the area rather than your regular retinol product as it will contain other ingredients that are kinder to this area. Also only use it under the eye area not on the eyelids.
Dr Soni is a fan of eye creams that use encapsulated retinol as "this has a delayed release, preventing any irritation under the eye, as well as getting that collagen stimulation and cell turnover,” he says. He also recommends looking for soothing ingredients such as bisabolol (chamomile extract) and niacinamide in the formula to protect the skin barrier.
What are common eye cream mistakes?
One of the biggest mistakes Katharine sees in her clinic is people overloading the skin under their eyes with cream. “The skin is very delicate here,” she says. “You don’t want to flood the eye area with product as it can irritate this delicate area and also cause puffiness.”
Too rich a formula can also be problematic in your 20s – save these more buttery, occlusive formulas for your 30s and beyond. “I often notice that young people seem to think that a thicker cream will be more suitable for them – it’s rarely the case and can cause milia around the eye. Generally a younger skin only needs a very light lotion, or gel formula, to essentially focus on hydration in that area.”
Are you supposed to apply eye cream on your eyelids?
“Generally-speaking, no,” says Katharine. The eyelid is one of the most moveable parts of the eye so you run the risk of cream migrating into the eyes as it warms to your body temperature.
There is an exception to the rule, though. "I have some clients who suffer with inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema or dermatitis, particularly around the eye and on the eyelid. In this case, I would recommend specific eye creams that have been tested on the eyelid to help calm, and rebuild the skin barrier," she says, name checking Epionce Renewal Eye Cream as a favourite.
For more from Fiona Embleton, Glamour's Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
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