In the fast-paced world of beauty consumption, it's no mean feat to turn a makeup product into a treasured piece of art. But that is precisely what Hermès did in 2020 with its first beauty offering: Rouge, a range of lipsticks housed in refillable tubes and embossed with the iconic House's name.
The Birkin of beauty had officially landed – and better still, it had a sustainable conscience.
Every product the brand has launched since – from blusher to nail polish and even a skin tint – has been an homage to its 187-year-old heritage, first as a harness maker in 1837, and then as a purveyor of silk scarves, saddles and handbags.
Alongside textures that mimic the buttery-soft texture of leather or fine-grain suede, colour has always played a pivotal role in Hermès Beauty's storytelling. Its makeup draws inspiration from over 75,000 silk swatches and 900 leather hues in its archives – none more so than its latest launch.
Trait d’Hermès is a collection of 40 luxury lip and eye pencils, where vibrant, painterly shades of yellow and jade meet neutral taupes and classic nudes with Hermès Beauty's usual Parisian flair.
Made from sustainable wood, each pencil is wrapped in the brand's signature tricolour motif, making it look like a showjumping pole. But above all, it's an emotive collection – as the rainbow-like hues invite you to remember both the simple joy of opening a new set of colouring pencils, and playing with colour in the same uninhibited way we did as children.
The products:
When I spoke to French designer Pierre Hardy, who designs Hermès Beauty's packaging, he summed up the brand's aesthetic as “simplicity, not excess of decoration. It was about combining what was essential with fantasy and pleasure.”
And there is a certain practicality mixed into the craftsmanship of these pencils – from the creamy glide of the pencil to the long-wearing formula that still allows you time to smudge on a hazy halo around the eyes.
But they also spark the imagination, as these five GLAMOUR staffers prove with the individual looks they created using the lip and eye pencils. But are they worth the hype (and the splurge)?
Fiona, GLAMOUR's Associate Beauty Director
Shade: Hermès Trait d’Hermès Eye Pencil in 62 Bleu de Prusse
My signature makeup look is a ring of kohl eyeliner around my eyes and a cloud of cream bronzer on the cheeks. What years of trying different products to create this look has taught me, though, is that not all eye pencils are created equal. Some tug because they are too hard (who has time to warm an eyeliner between their hands before applying it?); others are so soft they crumble on application – and what should be a simmering smoked-out line quickly turns into panda eyes. With this Hermès Beauty eye pencil, I've found the Goldilocks sweet spot between being kind to the delicate skin around my eye and still managing to create a razor sharp flick or defined, smudged-out line, depending on where my mood takes me. While I would normally wear a bronze shade, I was immediately drawn to this jewel-tone that, despite being bold, was also a really wearable hue. I can see myself relying on this jolt of colour a lot for party season.
Rating: 9.5/10
Lian, GLAMOUR's Audience Development Manager
Shade: Hermès Trait d’Hermès Eye Pencil in 90 Raisin
An eyeliner pencil has always been – and always will be – a staple in my makeup arsenal, but finding the perfect one can still be notoriously hard. It needs to be soft and apply easily without breaking, while also not being too firm or scratchy. That said, I think Hermès might well have figured it out with their Trait d'Hermès eye pencil. Opting for a deliciously rich brown shade with a purple tinge, I swiped the pencil over my lids to create subtle cat eye – and used it in the corners of my waterline to draw it all together. The colour pay-off is impressive, with the blurring tool on the pencil's other end aiding a softer final effect, if you so choose. I didn't, as I was after a more sleek finish – the pencil created a consistent line that made my more precise look a breeze. Overall, I loved the creamy-yet-firm texture of the Trait d'Hermès eye pencil and fact that you can adapt it to your needs, depending on whether you're after a smudgy or sharp final look.
Rating: 8/10
Robyn, GLAMOUR's Social Media Manager
Shade: Hermès Trait d’Hermès Eye Pencil in 27 Bleuet
The new Trait d'Hermès precision eyeliners bring luxe playfulness back into makeup. With so many colours to choose from, you can create endless looks to match any outfit or mood. The colour payoff is solid, gliding on smoothly without any clumps or streaks. However, I found that the lighter shades, like yellow and orange, didn’t show up well on my skin tone, which was a bit disappointing. Still, there is a great mix of bold and everyday colours in the lineup. While it might take a bit of confidence to pull off the whole range, these liners are perfect for adding a touch of personality to your routine.
Rating: 7/10
Shade: Hermès Trait d’Hermès Lip Pencil in 97 Pourpre Figue
I love the glide and pigment on these pencils – and the colour range is beautiful, especially for autumn-winter. One thing I did notice, though, is this clings to dry skin more than some of the other lip liners I’ve tried, so if you’re prone to chapped lips, you’ll need to buff and balm them thoroughly for this to look its best.
Rating: 7/10
Shade: Hermès Trait d’Hermès Lip Pencil in 16 Beige Tan
As far as premium beauty products go, Hermès never fails to impress. From luxe nail polishes to chic lipsticks and eyeshadow palettes, the quality of the brand's formulas is always unmatched (as is their luxury packaging, of course). The latest Hermès product to earn a spot in my everyday makeup bag? The brand's newly-launched lip liner in a gorgeous brown nude shade called ‘Beige Tan’. Straight away, I was impressed with how smoothly it glided on my lips, helping me to achieve a precise look in seconds. The formula didn't feel too drying on the lips and the pigment easily lasted me through the whole office day without the need for a top-up. Hands down, one of my favourite Hermès products to date.
Rating: 8/10
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
